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Just been there, done that, got the t-shirt. First thing is those hay dogs. They are L shaped pieces of cast iron that hold the hay from springing back into the chamber toward the plunger. There are 3 of them on the 68, two top, one bottom. Be sure the springs are good and they are operating properly. Those babies make all the difference in the world. Second, the twine tensioner plates. Mine was so worn out on one side the twine would just pull through no matter how tight I made that little spring. You want about 10 lbs resistance as you pull a string through toward the needles. Third, be sure your plunger clearance is adjusted properly. Too much on top or side-to-side will cause you problems. You want about 1/8" clearance on top and about 1/32" at the knife in the middle where it crosses the anvil. Finally, be sure the wedges in the bale chamber haven't collapsed on you. There's also a hay stop in the pick-up chamber that looks like a flap with a spring holding it down. Keeps hay from being pushed out of the chamber as the plunger compresses. Makes a difference too. The way it works is that the bale is tied when tightly compressed, and as bale exits toward the back of the machine the bale expands and tightens the strings. If the bales is never compressed properly, the strings'll never get tight. Mine looked real good as they came out of the machine, but after a few minutes in the wagon they would look like parentheses (. The hay dogs and twine plate did the trick. Makes real tight, square bales now. I was just about ready to set it on fire before. Other thing. Remember every field of hay is different, and you'll probably have to reset the tension springs every time you bale, sometime two or three times during the day. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
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