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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

605 f

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newbie haymaker

06-22-2007 19:38:40




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just bought 605 f with new belts, sprokets and chain. any info on checking machine out before learning how to roll. what are all the different letter designations stand for? thanks for info in advance. will be rolling with zetor 6245 four wheel drive on hilly pastures.




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newbie haymaker

06-23-2007 20:46:21




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-22-2007 19:38:40  
thanks for all the replies. does anyone know the web address of vemeer so that i can order a manual. do they have one in pdf to down load?

newbie



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Hay DR

06-24-2007 20:49:55




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-23-2007 20:46:21  
You can download the Vermeer 605 Super G Operators and Parts manual at the link below. The Vermeer G & F balers are similar. The F has Hydraulic tension and the G is spring only.



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kelly campbell

06-24-2007 05:09:45




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-23-2007 20:46:21  
google vermeer ag



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JM in Merit

06-23-2007 20:07:33




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-22-2007 19:38:40  
F balers are good balers, ran one for about 15 years. Make sure you got all pickup teeth and none are broken. Watch your bearings, on mine if I had one go out it was always in the first 20 bales I baled at the beginning of the season. Like Dan said those Infrared thermometers are very handy and helpfull in monitoring bearings
Get a manual like others said they are free from Vermeer. Watch your belts as you bale and try to keep them off the guides. If Guides are worn either replace them or turn them 90 degrees if that side is good.
It is a good baler. Good luck

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Kelly Campbell

06-23-2007 16:41:01




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-22-2007 19:38:40  
Best way to start a bale is to find a low place in the windrow and start there, feed a little in at a time until you see the bale start to come up. Best windrow for these balers is one that"s the whole width of the pickup. This helps make a better bale. when weaving weave to one side for 15 or 20 seconds then sharply to the other for 15 or 20 seconds if necessary. The fence will collect hay if you try to feed it to fast or if you run into a glob in the windrow. Just watch it to make sure that it doesn"t get to full but its easy to clean out. Lastly if it doesn"t have a manual call vermear and have them send you one which is free, you"ll need the sn of the baler. Good luck and once you get started you"ll get the hang of it..

Lastly DON"T OVER FILL THE BALER!!! unless you like to replace parts on it. Oh yeah and kick off the pto before dumping a bale...Kick is back on while the gates still up and make sure that the gate latches!!!

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NEIADan

06-23-2007 05:07:54




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-22-2007 19:38:40  
Congrats. You just bought the first open throat hard core baler built. You can bale good solid bales all day with one of those. I put over 30,000 bales through one. The best thing we have found is one of those hand held infra red thermometers. You can run the machine awhile and just start pointing at the bearings to see if one is running hot. As mentioned before make sure your teeth are in good shape. not just there and straight but stiff. If you still have the original steel spring teeth change them out for new rubber mounted teeth. More expensive to start with but cheaper over time.

Your windrow will be the key as to how easy it is to start a bale. The faster you can fill the entire width of the baler the easier your bale will start. Idle down until you have the bale started and weave completely from side to side. Never drive down the center of a windrow but fill the sides of the bale. We ran the self contained hydraulic tension at 1500# I think. It was so the needle was straight up in hay.

I see someone earlier mentioned the flaps onthe starting roller. They are crucial in grass hay. they must be stiff and wipe against the bales hard. Sometimes we would get more life out of them if we turned them over. And yes that roller should turn backward.

Don't let these guys with chain balers spoof you. Around here if the hay is ready and rain comming they will leave it lay on the ground rather than bale with a chain baler.

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Allan In NE

06-23-2007 06:18:21




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 Re: 605 f in reply to NEIADan, 06-23-2007 05:07:54  
What is the "fence" for?

Allan

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paul

06-22-2007 23:45:16




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 Re: 605 f in reply to newbie haymaker, 06-22-2007 19:38:40  
F was the first open throat baler. G was a cheaper version of the same thing I believe. Higher letters are newer models. A-D were older closed throat.

Bearings, bearings, bearings. Read the manual before trying to get one out, they have very different (for me anyhow( taper-lock bearings in places that are easy to remove _if_ you read the manual. I was ready to torch one out before I started reading.

If a roller breaks (had 2 break the end shaft on me), take it to a metal shop & have them build you a new one. Will be 1/2 price of trying to order one from V. My V dealer told me to do that....

Starting a bale can be an adventure with any round baler at times.

New teeth on the pickup will help the most. Those rubber flaps on the rotating roller should be in good shape too, pretty cheap & easy to replace if they are wore.

--->Paul

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Allan In NE

06-23-2007 04:26:31




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 Re: 605 f in reply to paul, 06-22-2007 23:45:16  
"Starting a bale can be an adventure with any round baler at times."

Think that is one of the drawbacks of a belt baler, isn't it?

Used to watch my neighbor fighting those old Vermeer balers; felt so sorry for him.

Along about 10 am he could finally get the thing going..... just about the same time the dew was burning off and it was getting way too darned dry to bale hay.

Allan



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KEH

06-23-2007 15:59:43




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 Re: 605 f in reply to Allan In NE, 06-23-2007 04:26:31  
Allan,
I think the fence is to keep loose hay from spilling out under some conditions, also may be a safety thing.
Your neighbor must have had and older Vermeer. F and up will start bales if adjusted right.

Newbie,
To adjust properly to start bales good: I had a 504 F but I think the 605s had the same adjustment. The hitch is hinged where it attaches to the baler. There is a ratchet jack which raises and lowers the hitch. Lower the pick up with the pick up lever. Use the ratchet jack to get the pickup teeth the proper clearance, which I think is 1 1/2 inches, but check the manual, from the flaps on the cylinder. On the side of the pickup there are tension springs which have to be tightened occasionally. Now, It has been a few years since I had an F baler, so check carefully in the manual. If everything is in adjustment and, like the other post said, the flaps are good, that baler will start bales including hay that is a little damp that you want to bale ahead of a rain.
Later Vermeers, I,J and up start bales better. I have had a 505 I for a few years and I can remember it failing to start one bale.

KEH

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