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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

NH 67 Baler..shearing safety flywheel bolt..HELP!!!

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short bolt

06-18-2007 15:27:49




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Picked up a limb baling..sheared flywheel and knotted drive shear bolt..replaced both..retimed baler..goes thru complete cycle( makes good bale) needles go back to rest then when it goes to reset ..shears flywheel safety bolt..new bolt in..start up ...free until it makes a new bale and needles are at rest then WHAM..AGAIN.. HELP!!!! Any ideas what is wrong or what is happening???




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KEH

06-18-2007 15:47:15




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 Re: NH 67 Baler..shearing safety flywheel bolt..HELP!!! in reply to short bolt, 06-18-2007 15:27:49  

I assume you retimed BOTH the knotter drive and the plunger. If so. then try cycling the baler through the tying cycle and after by hand,(I hate to say it) preferably with the hay out. Pay attention to the plunger latch and see if it is attached and working properly. See if the cross feed mechanism is timed properly. Its been a while since I had a 67 baler so maybe some else can give you later advice.

KEH

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Blue Buddy

06-18-2007 15:46:54




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 Re: NH 67 Baler..shearing safety flywheel bolt..HELP!!! in reply to short bolt, 06-18-2007 15:27:49  
couple things to check, make sure the needles are going ALL the way back and out to the home position, if you look at the pull linkage for the needles the knotter shaft, pin for pull rod, and pin for pull rod on needle yoke should be just a smidge past a straight line, if that looks good, roll it through a knot by hand, and as the needles return they will pull the stop dog linkage just before they stop, make sure they pull the linkage to get that dog out of the way of the plunger arm, it sometimes gets seized a bit or the spring on it may be broken, also, some brake is required to hold the needles in their OUT position, maybe they slide back in just far enough to allow the stop dog to get in front of the plunger arm? good luck

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Rexalot

06-20-2007 21:11:22




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 Re: NH 67 Baler..shearing safety flywheel bolt..HELP!!! in reply to Blue Buddy, 06-18-2007 15:46:54  
Sure sounds to me like your plunger stop isn't pulling out of the bale chamber after the tying cycle.

I had this problem on my S67. Everytime it would tie a bale I would hear a loud pop. Initially I thought it was just the tractor and the fact I couldn't get the RPM's I needed to run the baler at the right RPM/Plunger strokes. I'd break a shear bolt every once in awhile but not frequent enough that I considered it an issue. However, once I made the mistake of putting in a non-discrept bolt and it didn't shear, I broke the chain that drives the knotters. It was then that I found out my plunger stop did not retract all the way out of the bale chamber, even though my needles were all the way "home".

The plunger stop is located on the left side of the bale chamber below the knotter drive clutch. It should have a medium return spring on it. The plunger stop is connected to the needle yoke by a rod with an adjustable end. With the needles in the "home" position, disconnect the rod from the yoke and make sure you can move the "stop" in and out of the chamber easily, disconnect the spring to make this check. If the spring is missing it will need replaced. The actuating rod length should be adjusted so that the pin holding it to the needle yoke fits free with the needles in the "home" position. It is also important to check your needle/knotter timing as this effects the operation of plunger stop. I'll assume that the knotter brake is functioning, and you cannot move the needles from "home" by hand. The brake is on the right side of the knotters and should be clean of oil and grease on the disc.

If you don't have the manual, to check timing is easy...

Roll the fly wheel until the plunger arm is vertical on the compression stroke. (There should be two notches cut into the top side of the frame on the left side under the sheild). With the plunger in this position, check that the two horizontal lines on the knotter drive clutch are with 1/4" of each other. If not, remove the knotter drive chain and turn the clutch until they align. Reinstall chain and tension. (Note: this is also a good time to check tine bar timing... with the plunger set as above the left end of the tine bar ( tine bar = part that feeds hay into plunger) where it attaches to the driving chain should be between to vertical notches cut into the frame of the baler. This is viewed from the rear through the access door just to the right of the knotter brake. If this needs adjustment, you'll need to loosen the chain and work it over the drive gears to get it to the position you want.) Once timing is set, trip the knotters and by hand cycle it through a complete tying cycle.

I learned alot about setting up a baler and making the adjustments from my old worn out S67... good luck. Lets us know what made the fix.

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