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What is ment by "front" needles? If I were to guess I'm going to assume that you broke the first pair of tine bar fingers when they came into contact with the plunger and not your actual "needles" that feed twine into the knotters. At any rate, this is the book version on how to time your baler. (Kelly C used to have a web site with instructions and pictures but the link is broke... sorry I don't have that) Ok, lets find the timing marks on your baler. Any references to left or right will be as if your standing behind the baler... To find the plunger timing marks, lift the front tin "hood" that covers the plunger. In the top of the frame on the right side there will be two notches cut into the frame about three inches apart. If they aren't there (if your baler has rust they might not be visable)you can still figure out the proper place by turning the flywheel clockwise until your plunger crank is vertical on the compression stroke. Next, find your tine bar timing marks. (Tine bar/tine fingers move hay into the bale chamber)
Standing at the rear of the baler on the right side adjacent to the knotter brake. Open the access panel. In the frame about 2 to 4 inches from the left side of the access cut out will be the tine bar marks. These are just like the plunger marks, little notches cut in the frame. You want the attach point where the tine bar hooks to the chain to be between these marks with the plunger set vertical between it's marks. (My baler still has the factory decal at this location showing this... maybe yours will to) If your out of time here, the only way I know how to adjust this is by loosening the tine bar drive gears (the bolt to do this is in the twine ball chamber) and moving the chain over the gear teeth until you get it where you want, then tension the chain properly making sure you end up in the marks. With both of these set, now is the time to check knotter and needle timing. On the left side of the knotter, look for two horizontal lines on your knotter clutch. These marks should be no more that 1/4 inch apart. If they aren't, to adjust you need to remove the long drive chain and rotate the clutch until both lines are lined up. Reassemble and then manually trip the knotters. If you were good to go... Next step is checking needle timing. While turning the baler by hand to cycle the knotters (either go slow or get help with this) watch the needles as they enter the bottom of the chamber. When then points of the needles are about 7/16 of an inch in from the bottom of the chamber, stop. Check to see that the points on the plunger have not gone more than 3/4 of an inch past. If you would need to adjust, its the rod on the side that connects needles to the knotter cam, this should be obvious. If your good, continue through the knot cycle. This is also a good time to make sure your plunger stop is functional. The plunger stop is located on the left side of the bale chamber. Make sure it moves in and out FREELY. After a completed tying cycle, the horizontal lines on the knotter clutch should be back within 1/4 inch. Put the plunger crank back into the vertical position on the compression stroke and your tine bar should be back in it's marks. Sorry for the long post, but how else can I explain. I would get yourself a manual when you have the opportunity. Just for reference tine's are about $18 at the NH dealer. The set that may have been broken should be mounted about 2 inches from the end of the square part of the tine bar. Any other questions?
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