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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Sickle Mower - knife gap

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Chuck, WA

04-25-2007 06:52:41




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I have an old New Idea sickle that was converted from pull to 3-pt. I am fairly sure it's a model 30. I use it to mow just a few acres of grass hay - maybe 5 acres total on 3-4 cuttings a year. When I got it, it had serrated knives, so I've just kept those, even though I know some would recommend un-serrated for grass.

Yesterday I went through and adjusted the knife gap using a feeler gauge and shims to about 0.010". I couldn't remember what I was told the gap should be - senior moment! :)

Can anybody tell me what it should be?

I am having a lot of trouble with it jamming so that the internal slip clutch slips, and last night within about 10 minutes of finishing a field, I broke the pitman. I have a spare, but it was late and I just wasn't up to replacing it and finishing after a long day.

This morning, I'll replace the pitman, then recheck the gaps, and try to figure out why it is so sensitive to jams before finishing what I started yesterday and starting on the last 2 acre field of my first cutting.

It's interesting...I can tell by the sound when I engage the pto if it's going to run smooth or jam. It it's a loose,rattling sound, it will work. If it's a softer sound with less rattle, it will jam.

I noticed yesterday that if it sounds like a jam, if I throttle up a little, then throttle way back down, and back up again, the sound changes - there's not quite a click, but there's some subtle sound or feel that tells me something changed - and that often takes care of whatever is going on and it works OK. The fields I mow are small, and most have irrigation risers so there's lots of stop-and-start. Most folks wouldn't mess with it, but it's a hobby and a help for friends who buy the hay for their horses. The mower is old, and I can't really justify putting a lot of money into it, but am hesitant to replace it with a pig-in-a-poke.

I'd appreciate any help with the gap, and any ideas on what might be the root of the problem.

Thanks!
Chuck, WA

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dorsetfarmer

04-27-2007 08:44:33




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to Chuck, WA, 04-25-2007 06:52:41  
When you find out what the problem was, please let us know. Mike



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johns48jdb

04-25-2007 19:13:47




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to Chuck, WA, 04-25-2007 06:52:41  
sounds more like the machine is out of time. clear the machine of all grass and turn it over by hand to the end of a stroke. if the tip of the sections are not in line with the tips of the guards it is out of time. it may be that your putman rods are to long/short. i don't know if there is any way to adjust that on this mower other than making a new rod. if the section doesn't travel all the way through it want cut the grass and will cause plugs. you should only cut hay in the mornings to start with. hay cut late in the day like that will not have time to cure a little that first day and will weigh enough to settle down more over night and want dry as good the next day. always cut your hat tall enough for the stems under neath to be long enough to support the weight of the hay and it will dry faster by allowing air to get under the hay. it will grow back faster too.

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dorsetfarmer

04-25-2007 10:02:44




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to Chuck, WA, 04-25-2007 06:52:41  
By "jamming" do you mean that the mower plugs with grass as you attempt to cut, or that the knife seems to hit an immovable object? If it plugs and the grass is not damp and you've got good section-ledger plate contact, I'd speculate that the sections are worn to a triangular-like point at the tip. Comparison with a new section would be worthwhile. Also, sight along the bar to see if all guards are in line. If it abrubtly stops without plugging, I'd speculate a section or guard may be loose and creates resistance when it flips out of line. My 2 cents. Let us know what you find.

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Chuck, WA

04-25-2007 11:55:00




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to dorsetfarmer, 04-25-2007 10:02:44  
Dorset...acts as if plugging with grass, but when I stop and clear it, there sometimes doesn't seem to be and bunches wedged tight enough to stop it...for example, sometimes I can turn the eccentric that the pitman is attached to by hand (with some resistance). Sometimes it is jammed with grass. The knives clearly do not hit a solid object.

Knife-ledger plate contact seems good. I gapped at 0.010" with a feeler gauge by running the gauge in at the back of the section where there was a gap and sliding forward till there was resistance when I pulled it out at the front (tip) of the section.

Sections are all new - mostly last summer and a few the summer before - and I only hay about 3 acres, three or four cuttings, so there shouldn't be a lot of wear on sections. In fact, looking at them, there's little wear.

Guards are all tight.

The problem is worse in late afternoon, so could be at least in part due to a little dampness, but our climate here is very dry, though this time of the spring, could be a little more moisture in the air and coming up from the ground as it cools in late afternoon.

I've installed a new pitman and checked knife-ledger gap and found a few a little tight and a few a little loose, and will adjust a little before trying again.

Any other thoughts are welcome.

Thanks!
Chuck, WA

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Al -VA

04-25-2007 16:25:03




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to Chuck, WA, 04-25-2007 11:55:00  
Are the ledger plates good and sharp? They are half of the cutting edge.



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Jossette

04-25-2007 16:19:24




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 Re: Sickle Mower - knife gap in reply to Chuck, WA, 04-25-2007 11:55:00  
grass is to wet

The gap between the sections and the top of the rock guard to far apart. take a hammer and lightly hit them



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