I have an old New Idea sickle that was converted from pull to 3-pt. I am fairly sure it's a model 30. I use it to mow just a few acres of grass hay - maybe 5 acres total on 3-4 cuttings a year. When I got it, it had serrated knives, so I've just kept those, even though I know some would recommend un-serrated for grass.Yesterday I went through and adjusted the knife gap using a feeler gauge and shims to about 0.010". I couldn't remember what I was told the gap should be - senior moment! :) Can anybody tell me what it should be? I am having a lot of trouble with it jamming so that the internal slip clutch slips, and last night within about 10 minutes of finishing a field, I broke the pitman. I have a spare, but it was late and I just wasn't up to replacing it and finishing after a long day. This morning, I'll replace the pitman, then recheck the gaps, and try to figure out why it is so sensitive to jams before finishing what I started yesterday and starting on the last 2 acre field of my first cutting. It's interesting...I can tell by the sound when I engage the pto if it's going to run smooth or jam. It it's a loose,rattling sound, it will work. If it's a softer sound with less rattle, it will jam. I noticed yesterday that if it sounds like a jam, if I throttle up a little, then throttle way back down, and back up again, the sound changes - there's not quite a click, but there's some subtle sound or feel that tells me something changed - and that often takes care of whatever is going on and it works OK. The fields I mow are small, and most have irrigation risers so there's lots of stop-and-start. Most folks wouldn't mess with it, but it's a hobby and a help for friends who buy the hay for their horses. The mower is old, and I can't really justify putting a lot of money into it, but am hesitant to replace it with a pig-in-a-poke. I'd appreciate any help with the gap, and any ideas on what might be the root of the problem. Thanks! Chuck, WA
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