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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

How to check a baler prior to purchase

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Bryan Coutcher

03-21-2007 12:10:56




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I needed to know what kinds of things to check for prior to purchase. I am looking at a NH 276 square baler. I don"t know squat about balers and need all the advice I can get. What kinds things should I look for that would steer me away from this baler?

Kindest Regards,

Bryan




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MLD

03-22-2007 06:23:33




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to Bryan Coutcher, 03-21-2007 12:10:56  
I disagree with the "bannana bale" comment. I do agree theat it is a very good idea to run it & see that everything works as it should, but.... manual feeding already baled straw into a baler could produce a bannana bale if the material is not feed evenly.



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georgeky

03-21-2007 13:12:37




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to Bryan Coutcher, 03-21-2007 12:10:56  
The general appearance is a good indicator as to how it has been taken care of. Look in the bailing chamber and see that it is not eaten up with rust, this means it has set out with hay left in it. It is hard to tell unless you see it in operation, but 276s are really good balers. Turn it over by hand on the flywheel and see if it turns freely. I would also trip the baler at the trip arm and turn it over to watch the needles and make sure they cycle freely without hitting the plunger this can testify to timing. If you buy it get a book from NH it will show all adjustment procedures and lube requirements.

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Bryan Coutcher

03-21-2007 14:02:18




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to georgeky, 03-21-2007 13:12:37  
Thank you very much. I am being told it was build in 1988, is that possible? I thought they stopped making that model in 1976? I was told it had new bearings installed last season and a new plunger. I don"t really know what that entails.



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georgeky

03-21-2007 15:33:45




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to Bryan Coutcher, 03-21-2007 14:02:18  
I am not sure when they stopped making them, I think it was prior to 88. I would assume if it has a new plunger and bearings that it has been used a lot or something was broke. That dont mean that it is no good it may be a good machine. It is next to impossible to tell anything about it without seeing it. If possible take 4 or 5 bales of hay and run through it to see how it works. Check to see what kind of knots it makes.

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Bryan Coutcher

03-21-2007 16:46:55




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to georgeky, 03-21-2007 15:33:45  
I am not with you,...should I actually make 4 or 5 bales, or take bales to it? I am a little confused. I feel rather dumb, I am actually quite good at mechanical things, I just don't know much about balers,... YET. I am glad to hear that you feel the 276 was a good baler.

I am looking forward to figuring it all out, I just don't want to buy a piece of junk. I am working with the dealer I got my tractor from and they have treated me really well. He says he knows this baler and knows it is a good baler. Before he sells it to me, he is going to take it throug his shop and have it checked out. I believe him, but I also believe a fool and his money are soon parted. I don't want to be the fool parting with money I shouldn't have.

Thanks in advance for the continued advice.

If or when I get this one, I will order the manual if it does not have one.

Regards,

Bryan

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Rexalot

03-21-2007 21:17:02




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to Bryan Coutcher, 03-21-2007 16:46:55  
He's suggesting you take 4 or 5 bales of hay or straw with you and have the machine ran while you feed it the material. That would be the best way to see how well it works. You would know right then if it makes good knots and square bales (not bannana's). 4 or 5 bales run through machine should produce atleast 3 out the chute.

Otherwise, like already said, check out the bale chamber for rust, some surface stuff is ok, but your don't really want a bunch of pitted and spalling metal (not that it can't be cleaned up, but it definitely shows lack of care). The plunger should slide smooth, there should also be only about 1/32" gap between the plunger knife and the fixed knife (to big a gap will aid in making mis-shaped bales). The plunger knife should be sharp.. (not like a knife blade though). Trip the knotters while rotating the flywheel so you can watch the needles move into the chamber. Nothing should hit, and if the needles are adjusted right they should just brush against the knotter frames. This is also a good time to check the plunger "stop" (on left side below knotters)it should move in and guard the needles, make sure this spring is good. Check for broken "haydog" springs there are three (two on top, one on bottom). The "haydogs" are hockey stick shapped metal bars that stick into the bale chamber at the knotters. There are a few other things like tine finger's (pick-up teeth broken?) and twine disc's for wear. I would also look at the knife arm's, they have brass balls. You don't want any "flat spots" on them. I don't know this model well enough to know how it feeds the chamber. If it uses a tine bar, you might check for slack in the drive chain and see if there is any wear in the bolt where the tine bar hooks to the chain. Looseness here makes alot of racket. Makes sure that the bale chamber tension spring threaded rods are in good shape and don't have flat threads. Other things that wear are the twine tension plates. I can think of other things if you had problems... If you do purchase I suggest you make sure it has a pair (2 sets) of bale wedges or buy some. They can come in handy if your having trouble with mis-shaped bales.
Most of what I mentioned is easy fix stuff, but if you find problems maybe the dealer will take care of it.

This is assuming this is a twine baler... I may have missed that someplace.

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Bryan Coutcher

03-22-2007 02:20:07




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 Re: How to check a baler prior to purchase in reply to Rexalot, 03-21-2007 21:17:02  
Yes, it is a twine baler. Thanks for the heads up on the mechanics of the baler. I agree with checking the basic condition, this at least will show if it was taken care of. I don't so much care it if is dirty and dusty, but actual rust holes in the chamber, in my opinion would equal a no sale. Any opinion on that? Thanks to all.

Kindest Regards,

Bryan



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