Hesston 1014+2 questions

I was told on another forum that Don in Wisc has one of these so maybe he will see this and chime in. I appreciate ALL replies!

We just got one last year, and it works good. We replaced all the wear parts on it (sickle, guards, clips, chains,...) and went to the feild.

The first feild is gonna be a little slower until it gets shined up a bit, depends on how long it's been idle and where it's stored. The biggest problem we've had so far is keeping the bolt on the draw bar extension tight to the draw bar. To remedy that I drilled a hole through the bolt and use a castle nut, and then use a safety key. It also was used by the previous owner with just a bolt through the ball on the tounge instead of a poin like the rest of them, so I bougnt a Category II 3 pt lower link pin and bolted that to the extension. Now all I gotta do is line it up and drop it down, instead of tightening another bolt that comes loose in use.

From what I have seen, that 3 pt pin should be there from factory. If not, put one on.

I have been debating buying a manual from Ebay or not. I pretty much figured everything out on my own already, but it's nice to have a manual for reference.

We pull it behind either a Massey 285 (80-85 HP)or an Oliver 1855 (105 HP) and they both work great. With the Massey I go in 1st gear, multipower in low. On the 1855 (18.4-38 rears) I go in 3rd under/direct.

Not sure what the MPH is, but it keeps the hay flowing without plugging the crimper. That'll be the biggest problem because the crimper is only about 4' wide, and the machine will cut either 12' or 14', depending on the machine. Ours is a 14' model so there is a lot of material trying to go through the narrow crimper, unlike our NI 290 (9') which has a full width crimper. The limit on that one is the sickle speed, but it's still 1st gear on the 285.

Any other questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to help.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Hi Michael:
I posted this picture for Don last summer. I got a "smart remark" from somebody.
Standing on left end of header. Looking over end with the pitman arm by your knees you"ll see something what looks like this, this end of auger.
Take note of small sprocket near top. There"s another one just like it down underneath. The bottom one is known to go out at about 5:00 PM any Friday afternoon. Dealer replacements can be pricey. Factory machine parts suppliers will have or order almost same for less money. Hint: Machine replacement will have larger center hole than original. Shim hole with short piece �� copper tubing. The gearing carrier bolts tight regardless. Note: if you order one order two, keeping spare on hand at all times. Also important to keep this chain properly tensioned and well oiled. All the chains for that mater. Other end auger, see notch, a zerk inside. Grease (follower) so tine bearing have more opportunity to slid. or tine track on that end also. Check belts at least once a year. Often check and keep belt on left back of machine tight.
One your back under supported table, check skid plate hinges each spring and repair, replacing pivots or adding metal to hinges as required. PTO pump, watch hoses. Both have tendency to fail about every second or third year. Also under high pressure side fitting to pump housing there�s an ��O� ring seal under that output fitting to pump body fitting. When it fails replace with schedule 80 �O� ring. I�ll have to look up the proper (common) replacement number in �O� ring replacements shop drawer. I think I�ve pretty much covered what one learns from experience or what ain�t in the book.
Good luck.
Fernan

• Stop by and look in. coffee�s always on.

Donovan from Wisconsin