NH 664 baler

I've got a 664. GREAT baler! The basic design was introduced on the 660 and if you look under the shields on a BR780 it looks the same. Is the one you are looking at autowrap or bale command? You will need a minimum 85 HP tractor to run it.

If you are switching form small squares and going up to big rounds, you will also need to re-think how you will transport, handle and feed the bales. If you already have a loader great. Get a 3 point bale fork. Thats the best way to move individual bales. let us know how it works out.

John

Sounds like you are pretty much there for equipment. I bale with a JD 4230 or a 4010. The 4010 has enough HP for the job, but it knows something is back there, unlike when it ran the old Vermeer balers. Get a three point fork and either a fork for the loader or a grapple for the bucket.

IMHO the Autowrap is the better of the two options. No fancy electronics to worry about. You will have to hook up a buzzer to the tractor, if it's 24 volt, there is a diagram in the manual that shows how it should be installed.

When tying a bale with autowrap there are a couple of things to watch out for. When the buzzer goes off to signal that the baler is tying, stop right away. I sometimes bale huge windrows of slough hay cut with a sickle bar mower and raked with a wheel rake(if I can get it under the front axle, I can bale it). The twine arms are equipped with a breakaway feature and too much hay will cause it to breakaway and wrap twine in only the center of the bale. When tying check the indicator on the baler to see that the twine arms are moving and have not broke away. Also look at each side to make sure the twine is feeding. Sometimes a new spool of sisal will stick and not feed so only one side of the bale gets tied. When the tie gets to the end of the cycle, make sure the twine stops feeding. eject the bale and start again. The autowrap doesn't screw up often, but watch these twine things, because sometimes it does.

If you have any questions, email me.

John