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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Using a hand cranked Sheller

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Brad Bachelor

12-11-2006 06:10:32




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Howdy,

I finally got the ol' JD 1b sheller fixed up this fall and spent the last couple of weeks shelling some corn for the goats. My problem is is I seem to be only shelling about half the cob, and end up having to put it through again.

Have any of y'all had any experience with these things? Am I turning too fast or something? I didn't see any adjustments other than up at the mouth of the thing, but I'm assuming thats so the corn doesn't get caddywampus and jam up.

Any help would be great,

Thanks,
Brad

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NE IA Dave

12-12-2006 19:36:57




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:10:32  
If you decide to use the B and a flat belt, it would probably benifit you if you wrap duct tape around your sheller pulley in the center of it only to put a crown on it. You will find that a half dozen wraps will help keep the belt on.

I would also make sure the secret passage in your B JD carb is cleanned out so it will idle down. NE IA Dave



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low budget

12-12-2006 05:19:51




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:10:32  
Know someone who hooked a PTO shaft from an unloading wagon to a sheller, worked OK until he stripped the gears out of it. Be careful and use some common sense.



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Mark

12-12-2006 05:26:47




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to low budget, 12-12-2006 05:19:51  
lowbudget,

I think using a one to two horse electric motor is a far cry from an idiot applying pto power to a hand cranked sheller!

Even with electric motors of this size, when the gear/pulley reduction is as much as 16:1 or 24:1, the torque factor goes way up and capable of serious injury if you get caught in the machine.....but I don't think nearly enough to ever hurt the cast iron gears.



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lowc budget

12-12-2006 06:09:33




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Mark , 12-12-2006 05:26:47  
You are correct of course. Even the PTO idea would have worked if the idiot hadn't tried to see how fast he could feed ears into the sheller. Thats what I meant by common sense.



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Brad Bachelor

12-11-2006 06:38:49




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:10:32  
Thanks Mark,
Ill try adjusting the throat. What do you do about the different size ears (we had quite a drought down here this year). do you cull the smaller ears while your shelling and go back and do them later?

I like your idea about the motor and pulley. After a couple of weeks of cranking, my left arm is getting bigger than my right one... don"t want to be confused for one of them professional tennis players :)

Thanks,
Brad

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Brad Bachelor

12-12-2006 04:54:22




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:38:49  
I appreciate the info. I've been thinking about trying to find a belt pulley for the sheller and run it off the JD B. Problem is that I hear the pulleys are hard to find...

Thanks again,
Brad



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Mark

12-12-2006 05:32:37




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-12-2006 04:54:22  
Brad,

Unless you just want to locate an original JD V belt sheller pulley....and they made them..... get a pulley from an air compressor and install it. These kinds of pulleys are on Ebay all the time. On my 1B, I have a old time flat belt compressor pulley but have a V belt on it..works fine, but obviously a correct type is the best. If the shaft hole in the pulley is too small, a machine shop can open up quick and cheaply....if I recall correctly, the sheller has a one inch shaft..measure to be sure.

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Mark

12-11-2006 06:57:23




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:38:49  
Brad,

Most ears are close enough in size that they'll shell pretty well...but those that don't, I just run them through again.

I bought 2 old shellers just to get this 1B...the other was an old wood framed Valley sheller...don't know who made it exactly, as I think the maker put lots of names on them. Anyway, I had to completely rebuild the wooden sheller as the bearings were gone. The 1B had the flywheel broken...somebody had turned it over. I installed sealed bearing pillow blocks and new wood and sheetmetal on the old Valley sheller and it runs smooth as butter. It's crank was missing so it got a 1.5 horse motor on it. I replaced the broken flywheel on the 1B with a old flat belt compressor pulley and put a 1 horse motor on it. Both my motors are 3450 rpm's. They run a bit fast but I didn't have a 1725 rpm motor on hand. The pulley I used on the old Valley sheller came off some kind of farm machine and it is 24 inches, therefore the speed reduction is about right. They would run about hand cranked speed with 1725 rpm motors. If you motorize....and I suggest that you do, use a 16 to 18 inch pulley and a 1725 rpm motor. A word of caution, they'll yank your hand or arm off if it gets caught. Also, make sure your motor is a capacitor start type, an induction start motor hasn't got the mojo needed.

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Mark

12-11-2006 06:28:19




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 Re: Using a hand cranked Sheller in reply to Brad Bachelor, 12-11-2006 06:10:32  
Brad,
I don't have a book on the 1B....but I do have the sheller. The adjustment on the feed throat/opening allows the spring friction to hold the ear in such a way that the teeth strip the corn off without just yanking the ear in and toss it out the cob chute..half shelled. Start tightening the spring tension on the throat until an ear is held firm enough to shell properly....not much to it, a little trial and error. My 1B had the factory motor mount and I hung a 1 hp motor on it. I replaced the flywheel with a compressor pulley about 16 inches in diameter. Sure makes things faster and easier.

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