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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

sqare baler wedges

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Gary in Neb.

12-05-2006 06:33:44




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i have wedges on the sides of my square baler in the bale chamber. seems to me they are to help "pack" the bale in some fashion. i have two sets, they are as tall as the bale chamber and about 1/2 inch thick on the largest area. i'm wondering how thick these "could" be? could i add another 1/2 inch plate under them to help make my bales heavier? it's an old oliver baler and if i crank down on the handles to tighten the bale i have trouble with the twin, so hoping the wedges can help me out.
thanks
Gary

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Errin OH

12-05-2006 12:14:16




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:33:44  
I can't speak for Olivers but in the Ford, NH, JD style knoters twine hanging on on the bill hook could be twine tension.

When the bale is formed and a knot is made, the swipe arm has some tension to over come to pull the knot off the bill hook. If your twine tensioner has groves in it (like mind did) it will just pull out more twine and not clear the bill hook. Easy fix if that is the problem.

As for the original issue, check the hay dogs (if oliver has them). They hold the hay back at each stroke. My ford ties with the plunger back (hay compressed), but if the hay dog is not working (broken spring) the knotters just have fits. Not real sure why but they do (likely a timing thing with the plunger, needles, where the hay is). Tighter bales just make it worse. I can tell when it happens because the bale will bow/curl (up/down) sence the bale is not packed even (vs good square ends). I push 36"/60-65lb bales in about 12-14 strokes, I know real quick when its not working....

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Larry NE IL

12-05-2006 12:13:20




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:33:44  
When you crank down the bale tension, you usally need to re-adjust the knotter tension. If you have a manual it will give the steps to set up the proper adjustments to start with. Both my 620 and a 720 that I use put out nice tight square bales, but they usually need to be tweaked before each use due to the density and moisture of the hay being baled.

good luck, Larry Coltrin



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unioncreek

12-05-2006 08:05:48




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:33:44  
I have an old IH 27 baler, which most people say aren't worth a darn, but it works pretty good for me. I don't know what the knotters are like on an Oliver, but if I make my bales too heavy the knots will pull apart as soon as they come off the knotter. The wedges don't help a lot at making a tight bale, that's done mainly with bale tension in the chute. The wedges keep the hay back in the chamber, if the hay doesn't stay in the chamber due to nonworking wedges you will have tying problems. When I got my baler my wedges on top were stick,once I got them freed up it made a world of difference in tying.

Bobg

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Rexalot

12-05-2006 06:53:20




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:33:44  
What kind of twine problems?

Adding wedges help in forming the bale and will help with weight. However, I don't think you accomplish your goal by wedge alone. You will still need tension on the chamber.

Tightening down to make a better (heavier) bale shouldn't cause you knot problems. Your baler must not be making a proper knot if it's slipping under tension. I would look at the knotters, how the billhook holds the twine and are your twine discs worn out or out of adjustment.

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Gary in Neb.

12-05-2006 06:57:54




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Rexalot, 12-05-2006 06:53:20  
what i found when i cranked down the bales was the twine would hang up on the cutter arm. had a groove worn in it so ground that, which helped some, but still seemed to hang up some on the bill hook, so i'm putting in new bill hooks this winter. i use plastic twine. guess that was the biggest problem i had last year, twine hanging on the bill hook even though i had the swiper arm adjusted correctly so it has to be the bill hook, but i like tighter bales and mine seemed very loose so i thought the wedges might help if i made them thicker.

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Rexalot

12-06-2006 05:24:35




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:57:54  
Wedges will help hold the hay back and form a better bale. I'm not familiar with Oliver balers yet, but I just purchased a 520 so I'll be learning. New Holland has "haydogs" to assist in holding the hay in the chamber and you can add up to 4 wedges. Not sure what the Oliver has.

But like the Oliver, the New Holland baler uses the "deering" style knotters. So I would think once you have a good knot you will be able to crank up the bale tension.

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Hayfarmer

12-05-2006 06:51:33




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Gary in Neb., 12-05-2006 06:33:44  
In my area most of the guys sell hay, a lot goes for export to Japan. The predominant baler is 3 tie. We have very few of the small balers, most are the 3 tie or 16X18. I worked for the New Holland dealer for some time and all of the balers we sold had the wedges in the chamber. We also put extensions on the plunger face. I have a NH 282 baler and I believe it has 4 sets of wedges in the chamber. I think adding wedges would work better than making them thicker. I also have a hydraulic tensioner on the baler. I use plastic twine.

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Gary in Neb.

12-05-2006 07:00:25




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 Re: sqare baler wedges in reply to Hayfarmer, 12-05-2006 06:51:33  
does a hydraulic tensioner add tension from the top and bottom like my two screw downs do, or does it add it from the sides like the wedges do? if i add wedges, should they be closer to the plunger or can they be after the ones i have?



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