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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

no till alternative?

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Dave from MN

10-25-2006 08:07:51




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Alright following up on the post yesterday from me. The other idea I had was to make some sort of strip tiller out of a cultivator frame. I have access to alot of old plows,disc's and feild cultivators for parts. Kinda sounding like that would be the way to go over no-till. How wide of "strip" should I go with. I am a good fabricator and have a lot of machinist freinds so it is mostly a matter of what type of "digger' I should use and we'll make it strong as heck.

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Leland

10-26-2006 20:10:15




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-25-2006 08:07:51  
use a zone builder a local guy that has been doing this for a few years had some 100+ bpa beans this year ,he charges others 33 an acre to do theres .



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Dave from MN

10-27-2006 07:58:11




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Leland, 10-26-2006 20:10:15  
Could you describe a "zone builder" for me cant find any info on it.



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paul

10-27-2006 19:52:08




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-27-2006 07:58:11  
If you have a Hefty dealer near you, they sell/rent/demo Brillion models. They rip deep, but _very_ skinny slots, which takes the fertilizer, rainfall, & roots in below the plow pan. However most of the soil stays firm & unworked to carry your machinery.

Little narrow zones of tillage deep where the row goes, the rest left undesturbed.

There are many different theories, need to find one you like & matches your soil & climate. :)

I molboard plow the cornstalks, too cold & wet not to, but last year & this year I'm not doing anything to the bean stubble in fall. I think I'll get bit on a wet spring, but works good & saves lots of fuel if things stay reasonable dry.

I have hopes of some day trying strip tillage, but that is a few years away. I'm reading & watching tho.

Notill won't work; zone tillage doesn't tickle my fancy - does not seem to do what I need done on my soils.

--->Paul

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Leland

10-27-2006 18:20:44




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-27-2006 07:58:11  
It's a form of deep tillage something like using a ripper .



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JMS/MN

10-26-2006 07:09:01




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-25-2006 08:07:51  
Have you looked at the Buffalo No-Till planter? Buffalo markets a ridging cultivator to build ridges for next year's crop- helps the system work on heavier ground because the ridges dry sooner in the spring than flat land. I think the planter would work fine by itself on lighter soils. They go cheap on auctions in heavy soil areas. Apparently not too well received- idea of maintaining ridges-never driving over them, etc.

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jhill52

10-25-2006 10:05:56




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-25-2006 08:07:51  
Take a look at the Rawson zone till system. One of my friends has one and it works very well. Another built his own similar unit but he has cold wet ground and he uses it seperatly from the planter. He uses his either right ahead of the planter or up to several days aherad which allows the ground to warm up earlier. His system seems to work well also. The Rawson would be easy to copy and there is alot of published info on how to make it work.

Jerry

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Gerald J.

10-25-2006 09:53:47




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-25-2006 08:07:51  
Look up the Dawn Pluribus unit. I'm sure there's a web page and it should come up with a google search. It uses at least three wide ripple coulters.

I tried some strip till at planting time (central Iowa) once. I figured the year was going to be a drought year so I couldn't loose by experimenting. I was spilling seed into the ground with an IH Cyclo 400. On the planter unit shank, I mounted a straight shank cultivator shovel using some 1/4" plate and 5/16" U bolts. The shanks came from my JD RG4 cultivator and I put on 6" wide clipped shovels running maybe 4" deep. That rig was the first thing that hit the field. I planned to cultivate (not using an chemicals at the time) the rest of the rows shortly after planting. I did get a super nice looking stand at the spike stage, but it rained for the next three weeks after planting and the weeds took over. There wasn't corn to harvest that year, and the beans only did 20 bushels to the acres treated the same way.

In retrospect, if I'd sprayed 48 ounces of glyphosate per acre while planting it might have worked, but its not Minnesota where the soil so much needs to be warmed.

I have little doubt but what the horizontal shovels created their own hard pan just under them.

And I have had a collection of twisted bolts and u -bolts. I had to borrow a metal detector to find the cultivator shanks that fell off in the piles of stalks from the dump rake effect those shanks had. I suppose those 5/16" bolts were a little small considering that on the JD cultivator, the shanks were held on with 5/8" bolts and don't break off.

Gerald J.

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paul

10-25-2006 09:17:16




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 Re: no till alternative? in reply to Dave from MN, 10-25-2006 08:07:51  
Typically they run a 10 inch strip for 30 inch rows. Need to figure out how to multch, move, or otherwise deal with the plant debris, creating a good seedbed on the 10 inches, while not messing with the 20 inches.

Welding & fabricating is the simple part. Getting the process right is the hard part. :)

Do you alternate planting between rows year to year - easier clearing, or plant on top of the old row which controls traffic & compaction - but is much harder trash flow?

--->Paul

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