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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Van Burnt Drill

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Lou

09-07-2006 13:39:30




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Im looking at an old van burnt drill, this drill looks to me like there are two sides like its split in half and you let either side down independently, about 10 ft wide overall. I need something to plant grass seed with. Also wondering if you can pull these down the road without damaging the machine? thanks Lou




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Leroy

09-08-2006 05:12:09




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Lou, 09-07-2006 13:39:30  
NOT all of the drills have the grass seed box on them, the grass seed is a box that is possibly an eigth the size of the regular seed box and then some drills have a fertilizer box while others do not. Sounds like a double clutch model as the wider drills took too much power to lift for a single clutch used on narrower drills. Wood box or steel box? Fertilizer box? Rubber tires or steel wheels? and finally does it have a grass seed box? This information is needed to come up with a model no. so we can possible help you.

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Nebraska Cowman

09-07-2006 15:03:35




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Lou, 09-07-2006 13:39:30  
Well yeah, kinda maybe. What is it, a steel wheeled model? Sure you can tow it down the road. But if it's on steel you'll have to go real slow. What kind of grass are you planning to sow? Some grass seed requires an agitator in the seed box.

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Lou

09-08-2006 07:28:56




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 09-07-2006 15:03:35  
Good Morning, Ill try to be more specific, It has rubber tires, It has 3 places to put seed or fertilizer so Im thinking the small one is for grass seed ( in my case it would be rye grass, or switch grass ) the other two hoppers would be one oats wheat the other fertilizer. Looks like the chain that drives the grass section is unhooked, Im wondering why? Can you just spray the whole thing with fuel oil to loosen things up? its all metal.

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Gerald J.

09-08-2006 08:57:20




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Lou, 09-08-2006 07:28:56  
The grass seed section won't do rye or switchgrass. Those seeds are too big and have awns that tend to tie them together. The main seed box probably won't work well because it depends on gravity and those seed stick together. Switchgrass especially needs a drill made for it (which isn't any Van Brunt) that grabs the seed and then plants it no more than a quarter inch deep and then hits it with a press wheel to get good seed to soil contact.

A Brillion seeder with the cultipackers front and rear works good. There are drills made for switch grass. Check with your county conservation board, they often have them available for rent for such conservation seedings.

I have a 12' wide Van Brunt and it won't plant switchgrass, its good for alfalfa and oats though. It won't plant brome either.

Switchgrass, in my experience, is a whole lot harder to get to grow than the extension bulletins say. First off, its a hard seed that needs to be stratified before it will sprout. The standard published technique is to leave it in the ground a couple years. The better technique is to soak the seed in water for a couple days, then freeze it for some time. I don't know how long that takes, but I did a germination sample with my seed. I put maybe 100 seed or so between wet paper towels in a zip lock bag. At room temperature in a couple weeks 3 or 4 sprouted. I tossed it into the freezer for a couple months and when I warmed it up nearly all sprouted. And what I put into the field without that freezing process sprouted about the same percentage. The trouble with that stratification by soaking and freezing is that the seed is then too tender to run through a drill or seeder but just about has to be planted by hand. On well worked soil, it should be good to run a cultipacker, spread the seed, then run the cultipacker again to cover the seed just barely and to pack the soil. This should be done probably in March or April, May and June is too late. Fall planting may work. I'm not sure I'm going to try it again.

Gerald J.

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Lou

09-08-2006 09:27:42




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Gerald J., 09-08-2006 08:57:20  
Hi Gerald, You seem to be knowlegable about switchgrass. Last week I spent a few hours with our county extension service talking and looking at switchgrass plots. Im in northern NY. The best varieties seem to be Cave in Rock, Sun Burst, and Nebraska. The agents advice is to spray this time of year with Round up or similar product then fall plow, then plant by june 20th. I think he mentioned a brillion seeder, but he thought a drill would plant it with a packer behind it. Cant have competing weeds when its getting started. Ill mention one story the agent told me, he planted two test plots on june 20th , one started nice the other was very weak, the next spring he sprayed the weak plot in early may thinking he would kill everything and start all over, turns out the switch grass hadent started to green up yet when he sprayed so he was just killing weeds and the switch grass came up later much better than the year befor. Thanks for all advice.

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Gerald J.

09-08-2006 14:44:14




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Lou, 09-08-2006 09:27:42  
I have a 1.6 acre patch of switchgrass that I planted in June several years ago. Its a patch that often had water in the plow furrows when I plowed, that drowned corn when I had corn in it, and that drowned alfalfa. Its a patch where I planted tractor and disk one spring after successfully plowing it.

June is way too late to plant. Might as well plant it now and hope it stratifies in the frost in the ground over winter. After my experience, I think most of the extension bulletins are wrong about how to grow it. They often say its making roots when it doesn't come up for a couple years. BS. Its not making roots its sitting there waiting to be soaked and frozen to crack the seed coat so it can sprout.

My drill won't get it shallow enough and won't feed it good. And after its stratified its going to be too soft, the drill will smash most of the seed. After it thaws from being frozen in the freezer it can probably only be tossed out by hand because it will be SOFT and easily smashed.

Cave in Rock is a standard variety considered good. I can tell that I have some but I have a more solid stand of golden rod than switchgrass. Last last spring it got the patch burned for the first time but it was too green and didn't do much good. I do wonder if an early burndown with glyphosate might be better than fire.

As I recall, the extension bulletin from Virginia that I found on line was the one that suggested stratification in the freezer was the way to grow switchgrass. I KNOW my germination test agreed with that. Too bad, I didn't try that first.

Albert Lea Seed House (has a web page) is a reasonably priced place to get seed for a number of prairie grasses including switchgrass. They do ship.

The Brillion seeder costs way to much to own unless you are going to do a few hundred acres, but since its really good for grass seed it can sometimes be rented reasonably. It has relatively flat cultipacker wheels in front and rear and drops the seed inbetween. So a pass with a plain old cultipacker, then hand spreading, and another pass with that cultipacker is about the same effect. And 12 feet of cultipacker could probably be pulled with a garden tractor. I have pulled a cultipacker behind my Van Brunt FBB drill while planting oats and alfalfa, and that rig wasn't a load for my MF-135 tractor.

Gerald J.

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iowa_tire_guy

09-08-2006 07:38:50




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 Re: Van Burnt Drill in reply to Lou, 09-08-2006 07:28:56  
We had one of those. Well it probably is still around the farm somewhere. I don't know if the little box would do grass seed or not. We always used it for alfalfa.



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