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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Changing sickle sections

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Lincoln

09-02-2006 16:49:19




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Where can you find the longer rivets needed to replace the ones near the head of the sickle bar? Also has anyone tried the nuts and bolts that are now available to replace the rivets? I was wondering if they are worth the extra expence over the rivets.




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centrlilbaler

09-03-2006 16:00:54




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
I'll never go back to rivets again!!!!! !!!!!



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mjbrown

09-03-2006 16:39:34




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to centrlilbaler, 09-03-2006 16:00:54  
Maybe I don't do enough acres to change sections often enough but I found the bolts about the same as rivets. When i try to loosen the nuts they break off. I think I can knock off the riveted sections about as fast with an anvil and big hammer as unbolting and breaking the bolts. It's pretty fast to rivet on new sections. A couple of hard hits and move to the next one. My experience is they are about a wash.
If you go with bolts get high arch hold down clips.
In another generation no one will know or want to know how to change sections.

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Jonny deere

09-03-2006 08:12:22




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
Your question where to get the rivets? I would think the farm stores or the dealer of the implement that you have would have the rivets. The bolt on sections are quicker and easier to maintain. Newer ideas are sometimes better.



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barnrat

09-03-2006 07:28:56




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
Just bought a like new John Deere 720 Sickle bar Moco for $1500. With bolted sickles and No-Clog guards. I've knocked down about 200 acres of grass with it so far, about 1/3 of that wood chuck hole and rock infested. Only bent one knife, changed it in 2 minutes with a 7/16 wrench.



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IBorange in TX

09-02-2006 20:18:07




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
You need 2 sickles bars, one for a field that know, really know, no rocks, stumps, etc. That sickle bar can have bolts/nuts. But if you don't know the field, then the riveted bar is better. The rivets that hole the blade on the bar acts as a protection for the bar. If you hit some foreign matter, the blades shears the rivets and does not bend the bar. I use both bars....
Good Luck.....



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Jimmy King

09-02-2006 19:59:11




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
If I were farming again I would never go back to rivits. I loved the bolts.



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Jeff From WI

09-02-2006 19:48:45




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
Bolts!!!!! !! :) My haybine is all bolts & Nuts Now... What a Joy:)



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banjo

09-02-2006 18:51:32




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
The nuts and bolts are not the expensive part. If your hold down plates do not have the correct clearance, that does get expensive.I would weigh whether or not i planned to use the mower alot. If i planned to use it alot then i would spend the extra money for the convenience of changing sections on several bars.



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Jossette

09-02-2006 18:44:01




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
third party image

make sure you have proper clearance for the bolts and nuts in your guards. If not, more expense. I carry a rivot tool and a 3/4" wrench in the field with sections and rivots. Take the same amount of time with the right tools. My bar is off the ground about 4" anyway so it doesn't need a section unless I hit a stray T-post. The depth guage wheel out on the end of the bar does a wonder ful job of going over a lot of stuff in the ditch and field.

tractor supply or any hardware store should have the rivots. They may be a little longer but just cut them off with a hack-saw.

good luck

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MN Bob

09-03-2006 08:16:09




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Jossette, 09-02-2006 18:44:01  
Josette; What is the make and model of your sickle? MM or? I have a junker I picked up that needs a lot of TLC that may be the same, not sure. I do know its a MM but no depth wheel on its 7 foot bar. lYours ooks good, cleaned up nice. Bob



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Jossette

09-03-2006 10:38:58




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to MN Bob, 09-03-2006 08:16:09  
third party image

thanks Bob

This is a MM UM-5 with a 7 ft bar. I believe I have the only gauge wheel in the country.( Maybe)
Took me 2 weeks to get it and it was only $50 delivered. Well worth it going over pocket gopher mounds. I took mine all apart last fall and sprayed 'er up this spring.

thanks for the good word.

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hardscrabble

09-02-2006 17:22:33




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Lincoln, 09-02-2006 16:49:19  
Hands down, bolts are by far the best way to go. The initial cost may be more, but ,unless you're too ham-fisted, when you replace sections, the most you'll have to change is the nuts. I converted my windrower, one section at a time, to bolts. And I will never go back to those damnned rivets ever again.



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Ron 1456

09-02-2006 17:25:20




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to hardscrabble, 09-02-2006 17:22:33  
I agree.



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MN Bob

09-03-2006 08:12:25




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 Re: Changing sickle sections in reply to Ron 1456, 09-02-2006 17:25:20  
I am on the side of rivets for rough/rocky ground. If you cut ditchs same. For nice fields with few or no gophers, the nuts and bolts. Lide the others said, botls are cheat part. the guards etc add up. Call the JD dealer and price a kit. ouch. then go the Co-op and put it all togather and get that price, in my case that was less money but had to wait for more parts etc than they had in stock. Dealer usually is worth a little extra for future support. Bob

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