Ford 2000 PTO - 31 HP

I just want you to know that your postings here and elsewhere on the board have been a real help to me. New to tractoring...I feel like I completed a crash course this month! The unit is doing great hogging, drilling and dragging a box. Next is a little disking prior to winter. However, anticipating light restorations, here are the (my) relevant facts and issues I face. Your feedback going forward will be appreciated.

i. 1967 Ford 2000 4 spd Trans PTO Loader - runs great, shifts well, has good strong hydraulics, new rubber but is in rough shape. Needs body, paint, a few minor parts and lots of TLC.

ii. Need to remove the 730 loader (not self leveling) for winter's restoration project. Somewhat confused on the method to do so. Who rebuilds hydraulic cylinders? They all work well, but I have observed one of them squirting a stream of fluid under load. Does this indicate a replacement cylinder?

iii. Tractor instrument wiring was reworked in a shoddy manner. Want to replace all electrical hookups and install a new instrument panel. Is this simply a "follow the original trail" affair? Replace tach cable. All parts seem available on ebay. Any other suggestions?

iv. Ford New Holland Tune Kit - Better to buy OEM or otherwise? What beyond points, filters, etc...

v. Pivot Pin - What symptoms will I look for to know if the pin is worn? It is difficult to assess with the loader attached. Sounds like a real difficult project for a neophite!

iv. Repaint. What method to strip off old paint? Sandblast? Will a body shop be the best to repaint using the OEM colored product? Primer coat? Lastly, what is the best method for painting Rear wheel rims (methelene sp? and wheel weights installed) with the tires (new) still mounted?

Hope you don't mind taking me to the sophomore level. Look forward to seeing your post(s).

I love my new Ford. She will live a long happy life in the hills of Missouri!

Since I purchased both units from a private party, I did not ask about the shear protection.

Therefor, I will likely take the tractor to a dealer to properly fit the tractor PTO mounted shear protection. Recall it is a 1972 Ford 2000.

If I understood you correctly, I can purchase a shear unit that mounts on the existing PTO shaft of the tractor. If I have to purchase one for each implement I will.

Thanks for clarifying the issue.

Should you have any specific product suggestions, I would appreciate it.

Thanks again.

Rod

An over running clutch has a different purpose. It is a clutch that allows the tractor to transmit power to the impliment in one direction. It does not allow the impliment to transmit it's inertia back to the tractor.
The reason for using the ORC on a tractor without live PTO is one of safety. When using a rotary mower, for example, if you were to face up to a fence or bank, the inertia of the mower would propell the tractor forward into the fence or over the bank. With the ORC installed, this is prevented... so you can actually stop the tractor, and the mower can free wheel to a stop in it's own time.
While the ORC is not necessary on a tractor with live or indepandant PTO (because the tractor can be shifted or stopped without touching the PTO), it is still commonly used on many high inertia impliments, and particulairly on tractors with indepandant PTO, as it protects the PTO brake on these tractors. Generally, if a machine requires an ORC today, on modern equipment, it is built into the shaft of the impliment.
So, an ORC would be a good idea on the hog, but is not necessary on the auger. The shear pin should be installed on both.

If your auger is new, then I would assume that the manufacturer installed the correct shaft.... If it is new to you, then who knows what shaft was thrown on there when the original was twisted into a corkscrew. The best suggestion I can give you is to hitch the auger. Hook up the shaft, and then lift and lower the 3-point through it's range. So long as the shaft stays together, and has about 4" of bar inside the tube, it will be fine.
If the shaft is not long enough, get a shaft that is, or have this one lengthened. Do not try to use extensions . Do it right. If you've got more questions, just fire away.

Rod

I went and looked at the hog"s universal joint and found the coupler you spoke of. However that pin joining the two side of the female couple (at the tractor PTO)is a spring loaded locking pin to guide the coupler on straight.

Nearest the hog"s gear box, the PTO shaft is then joined by a 3/8" machine bolt/washer/nuts.

Is the latter supposed to be the shear pin?

I can"t imagine that either are.

What shall I install should you agree that neither are the proper shear protection?

On second thought, it is possible that the 3/8" bolt you see could be a shear pin. This would only be the case if that yolk is NOT splined. It would need to be a round yolk, on a round shaft, without a key. This is unlikely.
It is also possible that the hog would have a slip clutch. This would be ~8" in diameter, have a few plates, and 6 or 8 springs compressing these plates. If you have that, you don't need a shear bolt.
There is the further possibility that there is no protection on the hog at all.... no bolt, to slip clutch, no nothing. I would be uncomfortable with that, but if you're just mowing clean ground and no rough stuff, it would be OK.
If there isn't any protection then you could go to a local farm equipment dealer, and look into getting a shaft, or shaft parts with shear protection. There are shaft yolks that mount on the tractor end that have the shear hub built into the yolk.... so you would buy and replace that yolk. There were many variants of these things, so it's hard to describe them all. I'm not sure what that hub would cost either..... so cross yer fingers. HTH.

Rod