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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly

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H. Bowder

08-22-2006 07:05:42




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I have an old ford -1940s or 50s- sickle bar with a wooden crank-arm. The frame is a big inverted "U" shape. It has the break-away swing-arm and the big spring piston top-link attachment. It is red. It used to be a 7 foot but previous owner made it a 9 foot. I replaced all the ledger plates (original ledger points discontinued) and some knives. I was also unable to get original guide plates -the flat pieces of metal under the back edge of the knife bar-. It still cuts poorly and clogs some so I gave up and bought a brush hog (which I like).

Can anyone tell me what model this might be and whether it is worth pursuing fixing it up?

I want to be able to use it to cut under the branches around the edge of my field.

-Thanks.

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Oldmax

09-02-2006 18:11:02




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 Re: Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly in reply to H. Bowder, 08-22-2006 07:05:42  
Make sure the knives are timed the end of each direction should be in the middle of guard . Knives & ledgers should be sharp & proper with clearance . I loosen all guides and start at one end allways checking for free travel after adding or taking away shims .



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H. Bowder

08-22-2006 19:53:58




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  Ford sickle bar, actually 7 footer afterall in reply to H. Bowder, 08-22-2006 07:05:42  
Sorry! Just looked at the mower. It IS a 7 foot, It was not a 9 foot! That would be some crazy sickle bar. I think the story from the old-timer (in his 90s) who sold it to my dad said it used to be a 5 foot and was converted to a 7.

Thanks Paul for the in register advice



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paul

08-22-2006 12:35:56




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 Re: Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly in reply to H. Bowder, 08-22-2006 07:05:42  
It would be a Ford 501 type. They got into some 9-xx numbers on them also, but same thing. Serial tag should be near the lock for the swing away latch.

How was it 'converted' to 9'. 7 foot would be better.

It needs to be in register.

It needs the knives to lay flat on the ledgers.

It needs sharp knives, sharp ledgers.

It needs to have the far end of the sickle a couple inches ahead of the end that is near the tractor - a foreward rake to it.

You can tilt the bar so it mows closer to the ground - which causes clogs & rocks & trouble - or farther from the ground - which can skip over short grass.

Best is serated legers, smooth (or bottom serated) knives. Many times a top-serated knife will clog when cutting fine green stuff.

They don't work well at all in short fine grass, or wet grass, etc.

Work well on the proper clean hay when set up right.

--->Paul

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Paul Graham

08-23-2006 05:51:31




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 Re: Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly in reply to paul, 08-22-2006 12:35:56  
I have one of the 501's and it cuts very well. But it must be setup as paul discribed. Here is a copy of the operators manual in pdf format. If you can't open it up, try this website and download your own copy Link

thx>Link Paul Graham Franklin NY



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H. Bowder

08-22-2006 13:30:26




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 Re: Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly in reply to paul, 08-22-2006 12:35:56  
The sickle was converted from a 7-footer by putting on a 9 foot bar (the heavy tapered steel carrier that all the ledgers bolt to) It has a corresponding-length knife bar also.

I dont know where this came from; Maybe an early up-grade kit or scavenged from another ford sickle bar?

Thanks for set-up the advice. It looks like I have a few major adjustments yet to make. At least things are good and sharp.

I am unfamiliar with the term "in register" can you explain that?

-Thanks

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paul

08-22-2006 17:16:32




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 Re: Ford sickle bar, cuts poorly in reply to H. Bowder, 08-22-2006 13:30:26  
When the sickle rocks back & forth, it needs to put the knife middle right on the guard middle at both ends of the stroke. Like a sissors, it needs to make a full cut, not stop too early or too late.

--->Paul



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