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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

NH 273 Baler

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eatinmud

08-17-2006 17:27:25




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My baler has been throwing shear bolts out of the flywheel and timing gear for the knotters. For fun it shattered two needles. I've replaced all broken pieces and have the timing marks line up. Why does the plunger now come back and strike the tips of the needles. Am I missing something. The chute has been emptied and the needles don't seem to rest low enough. Any help would be appretiated.

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Keith in Maine

08-21-2006 13:01:12




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 Re: NH 273 Baler in reply to eatinmud, 08-17-2006 17:27:25  
I'm not sure about the 273, but most of the older NH balers had a disc brake on one end of the main knotter shaft. If this wasn't adjusted properly, gravity took over, the main arm that the needles attached to sagged, and the tips of the needles would stick into the bale chamber, and you know what happened then. If the 273 has the brake, just tighten the adjustment slightly, pull the needles back into position, and see if they stay there, when they do, you have it tight enough

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Blue Buddy

08-20-2006 13:18:49




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 Re: NH 273 Baler in reply to eatinmud, 08-17-2006 17:27:25  
Ok,,sounds like yer needles are not staying out of the chamber, assuming you got the new ones set properly so when they come up to the knotter they are in the right place, when the needles are in the home position (out) check the linkage for them on the pick-up side, should be almost a straight line from the needle yoke pin, through the knotter arm pin, and to the middle of the knotter shaft, if it IS straight, adjust the turnbuckle to get the kneedles out all the way, but if not, you may have a knotter brake failure (ont the right end of the knotter shaft) or a problem with the knotter drive clutch that is not getting them all the way out, or not stopping when they hit the end of their stroke

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Seth_ia

08-18-2006 20:40:06




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 Re: NH 273 Baler in reply to eatinmud, 08-17-2006 17:27:25  
My 2 cents says that most likely there is a problem with the needle yoke or the linkage. CHECK your timing by the needle penetration infront of the plunger, not the marks. It is not uncommon for the timing marks to be off alittle. Also as previously stated, check the plunger stop and it's linkage. The book explains all the correct settings.



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Hurst

08-18-2006 19:10:19




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 Re: NH 273 Baler in reply to eatinmud, 08-17-2006 17:27:25  
Our 311 has a plunger guard on it to keep from breaking the needles when it goes out of time. It is on the balers left side, it has a cable connected to the tube that the needles are on. This thing needs to be adjusted so it is flush with the wall of the baler when the needles are pulled all the way back. If it is not, it will either stop the plunger when everythings fine or will not stop it when it goes out of time. On the 311 if it breaks a pin right after tying, you need to make sure the needles are pulled all the way back out of the chamber because they tend to stop a few inches short, throwing off the timing by about 1 or 2 teeth on the sprocket. Make sure the needle brake is in spec so the needles stop once the cycle is complete, otherwise they may go back up into the chamber from the momentum they had. Good luck with it.

Hurst

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MattLobdell

08-17-2006 18:12:46




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 Re: NH 273 Baler in reply to eatinmud, 08-17-2006 17:27:25  
Only time I have ever seen this happen was when it was out of time. However IF everything is timed propery, you may have something bent. I haven't payed much attention to our baler(we bale with a 273), However my old 68 had a piece on the side of the chamber that would close and stick into the chamber when the needles came up. The purpose of this is to intercept the plunger and break the shear pin before the plunger can break the needles when it is out of time. As I said before, I haven't payed much attention to the 273, as it bales nicely (so far!) I would think the newer stuff would also have this though, it seems like a good idea. Good luck. -Matt

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