|
Myth buster time: Both bale chamber tension handles/springs need to be set at the same number of turns all the time. This is not true. Your model 68 is old and likely the springs will not be at the same tension under load. Start by cranking them down until there is no play in either threaded rod and the handles just begin to compress the springs. Next, start baling, you need to get some hay in the chamber to set your bale weight. Adjust down both tension springs. (Your first bale on an empty chamber will likely be long and very light. The next bale will be better.) Turn them the same until you get the bale weight you want. Once you have the weight you want set, you can then adjust the bale tension to assist in making the bale square should you get consistent bananna's (one side of the bale is longer than the other). Tighten the spring that is on the long side (preferably) or loosen the spring on the short side. Do this in 1/4 or 1/2 turns at a time until the bale squares. You can just do one side or the other.. in the end neither spring will be at the same number of turns. Your bale length should be limited to 3 or 3.5 foot long. You can do longer but you'll have more handling problems (breakage due to bananna-ing)if they aren't tight. Hopefully you know how to set length. Here is how I set mine, once I had an ideal bale made I measured the distance from the top of the threaded portion of the rod to the top of the tension spring adjustment handle. I wrote this down for each spring. I then cut a foot off an old yard stick and keep that in the baler's tool box. I set my springs to this measurement prior to baling then adjust if necessary. As for a manual, I would try Ebay. I got all mine there. If you have more questions post up.. you might also search for Kelly C's previous post's in the forum archives on the model 68. You'll be able to find a link to his website. He has useful info on the model 68 there.
| 
