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Trailer Plans and/or Kits

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Larry(SD)

02-02-2000 17:34:47




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Are there any decent plans and/or kits avialable to build a trailer? I would like to build a trailer to haul a Farmall 560D with a rotatory cutter (3-pt mount).

I plan to tow the trailer using a GMC K2500 pickup.

Thanks in advance.




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Mike Pickett

07-20-2001 23:40:30




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
I would like trailer plans for a two place drive on drive off snowmobile trailer



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ADfm(AR)

02-04-2000 19:22:15




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
Now I am not trying to drum up business for this place but for those close enough to use them it is the place to go get metal.90 percent under cover so no rust.
Sheet metal 16-22 cents per lb pipe 16-25 cts per lb. Most of the metal is new but has been cut for some manufacturing project and was over run or something and they have it at scrap prices.
They also have new metal in 20 ft length.They have loads of gears and 3 ph motors. They buy out manufactors that close up shop and they have everything. Sandusky Sales, Columbia,Ky.42728 Ph 270-384-4716 Fax 270-384-9456 Every time I go visit brother at Liberty we have to go do some shopping and drooling.

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RA

02-04-2000 06:57:44




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
I have been hauling trailers behind cars and pickups for forty years plus and I would like to give you MY OPINION, on trailers and electric brakes. According to my OFFICAL GUIDE,a 560 tricyle diesel weights 6172 lbs. bare with no weights or fluid. Then add your rotary cutter, which I have no idea of the size, but it should be 1000 lbs or more plus a trailor of 3000 lbs on up and you have a pretty good load for a bumper hitch set up. Up until about 15 years ago I had a bumper hitch trailer and hauled a tractor weighing 11,000 lb behind a 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive p/u and it was very interesting at times. This trailer had elec brakes and I was very lucky to not have a mishap.

Then I went to a gooseneck and what difference in handling. Much safer when you are hauling such heavy loads especially in hill country with lots to curves.

But now to the really important stuff, electric brakes! In my OPINION they really suck! I have worked on them and several mechanics within 200 miles of my home have had a go at them on several different trailers and they still suck. At low speed they grab and at cruise speed they either fade quickly or are really weak to begin with. The ones they use now days have an inertia pendelum and it does not start brakeing until it is activated by slowing of the rig. This must be started by the towing vehicle doing all of the initial brakeing and because the trailer is hitched firmly to the truck it has to slow the trailer and the load. Very hard on the towing vehicle.

What I went to was vacuum over hydraulics and the improved braking is sensational. I still have one trailer with elec brakes, but that is about to change even though it only grosses out at about 7000. The vacuum over hydraulics are a little more expensive but have one little mishap, like rearending someone at a lite or the vehicle ahead of you has to do a panick stop, and the rise in your insurance will more than make up the difference.

I also agree that you can buy a good trailer for less than you can build one. I have also "been there--done that"!

Hope this helps, as this is my opinion, and opinions are like a--holes, everyone has one and everyone's but mine stinks.

RA

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Bill From Ontario

02-04-2000 09:24:21




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 Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to RA, 02-04-2000 06:57:44  
You're right, you were very lucky. 11000 lbs. on a bumper hitch, behind a 3/4 ton pick-up? What was the GVW of the trailer? The highest rated hitch is 10,000 lbs, and that has only been available the last couple of years. If you had a 12000 lb. gvw trailer with 12" x 2" brakes, you would have had more than enough braking power.
You're also very right about goosenecks and vacuum over hydraulic brakes, but if you want to know REAL braking, switch to disc brakes. They'll make the drum brakes look real bad.
As far as electric brakes go, they are very capable of doing the job, as long as they are properly installed, and maintained. The whole principal behind electric brakes is to get the power to the magnet, which in turn moves the lever, turns the cam, and forces the shoes against the drum. The process starts in the cab. Is the controller large enough? You can't expect a controller that was made to power a tandem with 10" x 2 1/4" brakes to put out enough juice to stop a triaxle with 12" x 2" brakes. It just aint gonna happen.Bigger is better. How's the power getting to the trailer? The wire has to be big enough, the connections, grounding have to be corrosion free. If you have those Scotch-type connecters, throw them away, they would truly be a weak link. The connection to the trailer, is it corrosion free? A little petroleum jelly every now and then goes a long way. What condition are the magnets? They act on a machined surface on the inside of the drum, are these still true? How are the brakes adjusted? Too loose, and the magnet moves too far and wedges the shoes, and locks the wheels at low speeds. Are the drums out of round? Out of the hundreds of electric brake trailers,I've built, I've not had a problem. However, 90% percent of these had Hayes components. The reason for using Hayes over Dexter, was that the wire leads were silver, not copper (less resistance=more power to the magnet), the shoes were rivetted not bonded, and the drums were solid. The new Dexter hubs have inspection holes, and I am of the belief that these will allow more dirt in the hub, ruining the machined surfaces between drum and magnet. I could be wrong, but the site of holes in the drum in quite unsettling.
The bottom line is; know your equipment, keep it properly maintained, and drive accordingly to your load.

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Halbert09

02-04-2000 14:29:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill From Ontario, 02-04-2000 09:24:21  
Doesn't Reese make a receiver, I believe it's called the Titan, that's rated 14,000 lbs? Can a 1-ton pickup handle this kind of bumper hitch OK?



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Bill From Ontario

02-04-2000 15:02:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Halbert09, 02-04-2000 14:29:21  
Yes, you're right, that's the 3" receiver. For Chev, K2500, maximum trailer weight is 10,000 lbs. on a ball hitch, and 11,500 lbs. fifth wheel. The C3500, is 10,000 lbs. on the ball, and 13,800, fifth wheel. I think a super duty or HD Chev would be better suited to a tag trailer this big, that's not to say it's not being done.



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Bill Again

02-04-2000 15:22:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill From Ontario, 02-04-2000 15:02:30  
The Titan hitch has a 2 1/2" receiver (not 3"), and has a capacity of 14,000 lbs. weight distributing, and 8000 lbs. weight carrying.



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bill

02-14-2000 05:27:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill Again, 02-04-2000 15:22:44  
I agree with every one on the comments that a goose neck would be a much better application and a whole lot safer Northen tool which used to be Northen hydraulics advertises trailor plans have never had a problem with elec brakes but they do require tlc



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Rusty

03-13-2000 09:29:16




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to bill, 02-14-2000 05:27:57  
Any ideas where we can find a good used trailer to haul bulldozer or back hoe? He says he needs a lowboy with air brakes. Will pull it with a 10 ton dump truck. He is thinking of building one, however, it would be soooo nice to find one. He wants dual wheels, dual axles, eight 16" tires.
That is two axles with two wheels on each end, right? Well, anyone out there help us out. We are from Ohio. We thought Dexter was the best or only place for axles. Wrong? Rusty

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Leon Reams

11-06-2001 20:20:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Rusty, 03-13-2000 09:29:16  
looking for trailer plans to build trailers to suit people in my famliy



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Wayne

02-04-2000 02:23:40




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
Road King should be able to help you. They are about 10-12 miles North of Yankton on 81. They build lots of em.



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Steve Hansen

02-03-2000 19:33:23




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
Larry,

I agree with the other posters. Buy a trailer. You can not build one for the price of the components and this assumes you do all your own welding, painting, etc. I built one a couple of years ago. Used axles and brakes, etc. By the time I was done I could have bought one ready made. Most of the trailers in use around here (NE Ark)are made in Sikeston, MO. Lots of competition and the prices are good. Folks come from all over and haul them away six at a time.

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Jim in N M

02-03-2000 07:19:37




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  

Find a trailer you like and take all the measurements and drawings you can and price out the steel and I'll bet you find you can buy one cheaper,Oh yah, don't forget to figure in the axels and tires.lites,wireing,paint and the hitch and jack.----- been there-done that----- -Jim



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Larry(SD)

02-03-2000 07:38:32




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 Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Jim in N M , 02-03-2000 07:19:37  
I know what you mean - economy of scale. Is there a perferred trailer manufacturer? Someone with good quality and reasonable prices. Note that I am located in eastern South Dakota.

Thanks in advance.

Larry



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MrGadget

02-03-2000 14:41:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-03-2000 07:38:32  
I bought a used 7x18 trailer with brakes and ramps for $1200, same thing is sitting on the Wheeler's (Country General) lot here in Lincoln, NE...brand new for $1399. What I have is not really enough trailer for my 560 (fluid in tires). They have heavier one there with a beavertail that I think would do the job nicely for $1699. Point is, you should be able to get a good bumper pull (assuming you have a good class II or III hitch on the truck) for under $2000.

Your 3/4 ton should pull it nicely. I have pulled my 560 on my trailer with a 4x4 K1500 GMC. Like I said, not enough trailer for the tractor, but I only pulled it 16 miles to town for some repairs. The truck handled it well though.

On the other hand, my setup is just right for my IH 350 Utility (even with loader mounted on it), pulled like a champ 120 miles home from where I had to go to get it.

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Bill From Ontario

02-03-2000 17:54:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to MrGadget, 02-03-2000 14:41:14  
If you can, post a picture. I'd like to see what you guys are buying for less that the parts cost me up here.



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Burrhead

02-03-2000 21:40:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill From Ontario, 02-03-2000 17:54:49  
Now BFO you know MrG. When them fellers pull up looking at a new trailer in a GMC product they get the "deal". No vaseline either, just a real good deal.
I wanted to put galvanized catwalk in the floor and put steel runners for tractor wheels last year but that was too high. They wanted $450 for new metal and I could'nt find any used.



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Bill From Ontario

02-04-2000 04:48:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Burrhead, 02-03-2000 21:40:35  
Now, now, I have a ROCK too! I'm just amazed at the fact that you guys are able to buy complete trailers for half of what the parts cost me, and that's at oem prices.



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Burrhead

02-05-2000 12:48:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill From Ontario, 02-04-2000 04:48:10  
You may be talking apples and oranges comparison on the trailers. I buy and build heavy enuff trailers that any yuppie can use them safely and I sure as heck don't get a discount either.
They mass produce these trailers down here from Tiawan and Chinese steel and bearings. The price aint to bad but they are'nt a permanent fix for a trailer either. If you only used them once in a while for light work and park them inside they last ok I guess. These yuppies only need a trailer to carry a 4 wheeler to the deer lease or haul an 8n dorf to the hospital. Around here a Rock is a city boys truck.
Could you fill in for me at the drive up next week. I need to get my new teeth lined agin.
If you get a real loboy around here there closer to $2000 for one that will hold up and pull right. They make these econo models but for what you or I do with it and haul on the farm it won't do it. Been there done that.

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Halbert09

02-07-2000 14:38:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Burrhead, 02-05-2000 12:48:19  
So hows does someone tell the apples from the oranges? You and Bill seem to know a lot about trailers, what are some things the rest of us should look for as far as quality of construction, other than a local reccomendation from someone? Bill- I see a company in Ontario called Smith Trailers, do you know anything about them? Thanks.



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Ken

02-05-2001 18:35:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Halbert09, 02-07-2000 14:38:01  
I would like to find some plans on utility and landscape trailers, if any one has any.



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Bill From Ontario

02-08-2000 05:46:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Halbert09, 02-07-2000 14:38:01  
I know of Smith Steel, but whether or not they're going to work for you, I can't comment. I look for heavy wall tube, or I-beam frame. Structural channel crossmembers, welded completely around. Brakes on all axles, rubber-bushed slipper spring suspension, oak deck. The oak must be fastened twice at each crossmember, not just at the ends. Sealed, heavy guage wiring, quality lights. Look for, or request quality axles. Look to see if the axle stub itself, is inside the tube, or is it just a short stub welded in the end. Do the axles carry a warranty, what make? Ramp springs are a nice touch, as is epoxy paint. Are the safety chains and hooks capable of their intended job? Adequate tie-downs, and a sturdy jack make life easier. Does the trailer meet DOT specifications? It is my opinion (open to argument) that there is no such thing as a good, light trailer. Either you can use it to capacity or not. There is no advantage to buy a cheap 12000 lb. gvw trailer, and only be able to haul 4000 lbs. on it. Even though that's all you're using it for someone else will take the rating literally, and the thing folds up like a cracker box on the road without warning. I got to the point where I wouldnt consider any repair work on other makes of trailers, for liability reasons (Can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear), I only built new. Here's a 12000 pounder (14000 lbs. with 16" tires) that I built for a local school board. The ramps are like that for loading front mounted mowers. This trailer gets used 6 days a week, stays loaded overnight, and gets beat to death by the yuppie-spawn that gets hired in the summer. It has been in service five years, and the only work orders on the trailer have been for tires, and brakes/drums after 3 years. Yes it is heavier, yes the initial cost was more, but in the long run a quality purchase is much more cost efficient.

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Burrhead

02-08-2000 18:27:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Bill From Ontario, 02-08-2000 05:46:06  
That would be a good looking trailer if it was yellow.



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Burrhead

02-07-2000 20:47:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Halbert09, 02-07-2000 14:38:01  
If you only intend to pull a small tractor or 75 bales of grass hay just about anything will work.
A rule I started following some years ago is that these prefab trailers with 14 or 15 inch cheap radial car tires aint made heavy enough to haul heavy loads with.
I looked under some new trailers at the New Holland dealers the other day and the heaviest he had in stock were made with 1/4"X 2" angle iron sides runners and only 1ea 1/2"X 2" channel iron crossmember on 16' of floor.
I loaded up a 2910 Long with front loader on one of them last year and folded it down to a V in the middle. We never had a V bottom loboy before and I still can't figger a use for it.
I've got 2 of the prefabs here, but all they are heavy enough for is to haul a car or 8n dorf or something like that. I like them for that because they are so light and easy to pull. I build my own from 3" drill stem pipe with triple 3500 lbs axles and I don't have that trouble with them, but they won't pull too good behind a regular pickup.

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chuck

02-02-2000 21:20:13




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 Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to Larry(SD), 02-02-2000 17:34:47  
harbor freight has plans in the catalog, so does Northern Hyd.



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Darren

08-06-2001 14:02:16




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 Re: Re: Trailer Plans and/or Kits in reply to chuck, 02-02-2000 21:20:13  
check out www.tufindustries.com ,, they have all kinds of plans... real nice looking too.



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