NH 268 Baler Questions...

Derrick Otis
MH55

It is used, so before running it I would check that everything is in "time", the knotters, plunger, and feeder tines. I would also make sure none of the springs are missing or broken for the plunger stop (make sure this is free and pivots), hinged feeder tine forks, and the one on the knotter group. There are additional springs on the "haydogs" that get weak or break with age. Expect to replace a few pick-up teeth.

Grease it up, check the gearbox oil (if it's anything like a 68 there are two gearboxes) sharpen the edge on the plunger knife it it needs it and then go baling!

I keep a handful of spare shear bolts, there are two sizes, one for the knotter and one for the flywheel/plunger. I also have a few repair links for the chains in the tool box on the baler. Seems like when there is no spare that is what breaks.

Derrick Otis
MH55

The NH balers (67 and 68's) are checked the following way. I will assume that your model of NH baler is basically the same.

With the plunger drive arm vertical, there are two marks on the left side of the frame or sheet metal. Put the plunger between these. When plunger is set in this position, the feeder tine bar where it attaches to it's drive chain will be between to marks as viewed through the access door at the rear just to the right of the knotter brake. The marks are on the lip of the frame. These marks and the plunger marks look like saw cuts.

The needles should be in the "home" or retracted position. There are two lines on the left side top of the knotter drive (to right of where chain attaches). They should be lined up within a 1/2". Trip the knotters and rotate the flywheel. When the tying cycle has completed stop the plunger back on its timing mark. Everything should line back up.

Kelly C has a good website for timing a baler... although its a model 68.