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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Universal Joint Removal Help

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Mark (PA)

06-18-2006 04:41:07




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Hello, I am trying to remove the Cross from my universal joint. One of the bearings is bad and it is very floppy.

I have read on how you use 2 sockets and a vise to press them out and this makes perfect sense to me. THe issue is when I do this it doesn't allow me to press it all the way out. I have it in the vice and I can only turn it closed so far. THe yokes are hitting against each other and the cup on the back side is still probably only half way out. I don't know If I could POSSIBLY grad onto it with a vise-grip or something and pull it out but I doubt it. Its very tight of course. The cup that I am pushing in on is all the way out on the inside but I didn't know if I could pry up on that to get it out... almost doubt it without breaking something.

I am just trying to figure out what I am doing wrong?

When you push in on one side the cup on the other should come the whole way out correct? Maybe this is a differnt kind of cross or something but it looks pretty standard. It is out of a New holland 66 baler. Pretty old but good.

Thanks

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Mark (PA)

06-18-2006 14:44:07




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Mark (PA), 06-18-2006 04:41:07  
Hi guys!

Thanks for all the help! I got the Cross out today using a bit of all of your suggestions!

Once again thanks much for the help! Now I just need to go get a new cross to reinstall.



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JMS/MN

06-18-2006 20:43:31




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Mark (PA), 06-18-2006 14:44:07  
When you reassemble the new parts, make sure to align the zerk with the yoke on the other end- makes for quicker greasing. Also, if the assembled knuckle seems to bind upon rotating, whack the sides of the yokes with a hammer to loosen them.



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Harold Hubbard

06-18-2006 05:57:28




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Mark (PA), 06-18-2006 04:41:07  
If the cup is half way out, you should be able to pinch it in the vise jaws and either wiggle the shaft or pound it until the cup comes out. It may slip out of the jaws a few times, but if you tighten the vise up real tight it should eventually come out. I have a hammerhead attachment for my air chisel that works really well, I use it in the same way that Allen describes for a regular hammer. Last resort is to fire up the smoke wrench and cut the whole corss out, just leaving the caps in the yokes to be driven out afterward. If you do a lot of U-joints you will learn to re-assemble them with a hmmer too, but the vise and socket method is less likely to damage something.

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dieseltruk

06-18-2006 05:25:13




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Mark (PA), 06-18-2006 04:41:07  
If the cross is against the inside of the yoke, then the cap should be out far enough to grab with vicegrips and work it out. MIght want to use a little WD40 as you work it. Then use the appropriate size socket and push the yoke back the other direction. Sometimes they are very tight and you hust have to work with them. Try not to bend or distort the yoke. Good luck.



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Allan In NE

06-18-2006 05:22:26




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Mark (PA), 06-18-2006 04:41:07  
Mark,

Put the sockets back in your toolbox.

Remove the keepers on the u-joint. Open your vice enough that you can rest one yoke on the jaws.

Smack the other yoke at the "beefy" part with a 2-pound hammer, the u-joint will pop out of it's hole. Flip the shaft upsidedown and do the other side. Then, do the same thing with the other yoke while putting the u-joints axles across the jaws of the vice.

Whole removal procedure shouldn't take more than a minute.

Allan

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RodInNS

06-18-2006 10:22:14




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Allan In NE, 06-18-2006 05:22:26  
You said it Allan. I never use anything but a hammer when I'm taking a u-joint apart. Sometimes though, I do use a punch to drift the cups out the last little bit after the cross is out. I've yet to cut one out, although mabey I just don't get too many bad ones? Seems I'm always installing a new yolk anyway as the old one is snapped, or the cups were worn through. One thing I will say though, is that anyone that still has the old Spicer shaft that NH used..... Hold onto it for dear life, because the Weasler crap that is available in the aftermarket today isn't half the quality in terms of metalurgy. My rock rake will go through yolk after cross after yolk of the Weasler stuff, but the old Spicer's that I carry around for spares have not failed me yet. The japanese didn't figure out how to build quality driveline parts yet. Changing those things gets old real fast when you're in a hurry to get work done.

Rod

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J Schwiebert

06-18-2006 11:19:12




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to RodInNS, 06-18-2006 10:22:14  
When I worked for Dana (Spicer ) untill a couple years ago we had some yokes you could purchase seperately. Got Dimensions. FYI I change U-joints the same way most of the time but if you get into this newer Spicer Metric shaft you will change your mind real quick> J.



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RustyFarmall

06-18-2006 09:42:15




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 Re: Universal Joint Removal Help in reply to Allan In NE, 06-18-2006 05:22:26  
Allan, I think you and I must have taken lessons from the same guy.



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