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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Sickle sharpening questions etc Help

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Nebraska Cowman

05-28-2006 17:46:24




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I want to demonstrate this sharpener at Red Power Roundup but I've never used one. There is a little crank that runs the mechanism up and down or it can be locked out. Somebody needs to explain this to me. Then another question I have is the proper removal of rivets and changing ledger plates. All information welcome, I'm just pretty dumb about all this. Oh, the broken glass on the workbench? don't try to catch the grinder when you have a florecent bulb in your hand. Makes a big pop.
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and then there is this grinder. part of it may be missing? Is there more so it will mount on a mower wheel or is it bench-mount?

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Michael Soldan

05-29-2006 18:13:50




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
Welp, I never used one either Cowman but I have two just like yours and I think I know how to run them. First the sickle grinder was designed to clamp to the wheel of the mower to form the bench for your work. The sickle was placed in the grinder so that the grinding wheel was setting between two sections,when you cranked the handle the stone spins and it travels up and down the area between the two sections sharpening the left side of one section and the right side of the other, after appropriate sharpening you moved the bar to the next position sharpening the left side of the first section and the right of the next section in order. The sharpener was often taken to the field and set in the hedgerow until the bar had done a lot of work and it was time to hone it up. The two clamps made it fairly easy to use. You won't likely have a horse drawn mower to clamp the sharpener to, but that was what was done, then the bar was clamped into its clamp and with a little practice you could sharpen your sickle in 15 minutes or less. Many different sharpeners were made and sold with the mowers, by brands, Case,International, there were also generic ones made..Mapleleaf was one found here in Ontario. I ran into a collector of sickle sharpeners at a show in Caledonia Ontario, he had many many different brands. The two I have are in working condition(Mc Cormick Deering), one I would describe as very good, the other good but needs a new stone. I have a llke new stone that I found in an abandoned farm building but I believe it is for a Case sharpener. I don't know if I helped or made it more unclear, however a little practice and they will think that you are an agent for McCormick Deering.....Mike in Exeter Ontario

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KEH

05-29-2006 16:28:55




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
Never used one of those expensive grinding rocks, so can't help you there. 4 inch electric side grinder works quicker and better for serious work. I do know that it is important that the rock be smooth and even, which your sppears to be, and not worn unevenly by someone sharpening an ax or something.

To remove rivets: 1. Put bottom of sickle bar on anvil and cut off head with cold chisel. Then drive out rivet with appropriate size punch.
2. Have anvil with square edge. Put sickle bar on edge with back of sickle facing up. Hit back of sickle section with large hammer, shearing off sickle section, then punch out remains of rivet.
To install new rivet:
Put rivet through bottom of sickle bar with round head on bottom, straight part of rivet through new sickle section. Use face of ball pein hammer to hit rivet, swelling it in hole in sickle bar and hole in new section. Reverse hammer and use rounded side of hammer head to round off the rivet. Obviously, you will use rivet of correct length so the rivet can be rounded off flush against the new section. I did all this many times and was glad when I got a side grinder to grind off the old rivets. Was really glad when New Holland started selling those little bolts to use instead of rivets.

By the way, you can make one of those punches to round off the rivet by taking a 6 inch piece of 1/2 or larger rod and drill a shallow hole in one end with a new 3/8 drill just deep enough round off the rivet.
Hope I understood what you asked and didn't waste your time telling you what you already knew.

KEH

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twine

05-29-2006 09:27:20




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
Hi

I just rembered about my rivert punch,you just get the old rivert out and put a new one in and let about a 1/8 of a inche longer and hit it with this punch .Its a special punch with a hole in it to set the head of the rivert it work great to also need a anvil to pound on.



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evielboweviel

05-29-2006 04:41:21




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
is this any help
gotta run now will try and find the pic of one mounted on Country Elliot's cub
Ron

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evielboweviel

05-29-2006 04:38:26




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
look here, scroll down to pages 9-11
still looking for pic's and info on the grinder
Ron



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MN Bob

05-28-2006 19:00:16




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 Re: Sickle sharpening questions etc Help in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 05-28-2006 17:46:24  
Cant help on the machine, wish I could. I bought a stone at auction hoping to find a machine some day. They make a press, still find them in farm supply for 65 to 70 dollars. Takes the rivit out and sets a new one. I use a chisel on the machine to take the head off, then a punch. On the bench I use the side of an anvil and hit the back of the section, (with a heavy hammer) pops both rivets at once usually. Need a heavy iron underneith to set a rivit with a hammer, light hammer or wood just dont get it.
Hope this helps, Bob

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