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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

24T questions?

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Luke S

05-15-2006 07:45:50




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I have a 24t John Deere Baler that I got for free from an implement dealer friend of mine, then I had em spend about $400 fixing a few things on it. I have never run a square baler in my life, only ever done round bales. I plan on using this little critter on about a 5 acre patch of my best hay. It is very tall and thick orchard grass/fescue/clover mix. My uncle says I may have trouble with that auger type baler in that thick grass hay. That sounded silly to me? What do you guys think? Also, shear bolts? It has three of them, one on the pick-up drive sprocket, one for the knotters, and one on the flywheel. Do these shear bolts break often? I assume if you try to push too much hay through it too quickly this would break a bolt? I am going to pull it with my M4700 Kubota which has a very slow 1st gear and live pto, so I should be able to go slow enough not to overload it. These shear pins that are in there now are pins with cotter pins in the ends, do I have to use that type or could I just put some good bolts in there instead? If so what grade, 5, 8? If you break one do you have to retime something? I am new to square baling, not baling in general, but square baling. Also, I am going to make light windrows. Am I on the right track with this thing? Any tricks or secrets I should know?

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Dave H (MI)

05-15-2006 18:59:58




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Luke S, 05-15-2006 07:45:50  
The other guys covered it pretty good. I will mention only that you should have no trouble with the orchard grass. I use our 224T to bale it without trouble and it is often over 5 foot with heavy stems. If your rows are too heavy you will have to bale slow. After a few passes you will get the feel for the right windrow size. If the auger starts bouncing and banging jump on the clutch and thank heaven for that live pto. Get the manual from JD....cheap for what it will save you.....and don't forget to grease.

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`Bernie in MA

05-15-2006 17:41:15




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Luke S, 05-15-2006 07:45:50  
There is a lever in the bottom of the bale chamber that sticks up to protect the needles from being hit by the plunger (causes the flywheel shearpin to break) in case the needles don't retract to "home". Make sure that device is working and the spring isn't broken. Needles are expensive.



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Bob

05-15-2006 07:53:42




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Luke S, 05-15-2006 07:45:50  
A sharp and properly adjusted plungerhead knife makes a world of difference in trouble-free baling, especially with tough hay.

Get the correct shear pins from Deere, by part number. They are NOT costly, and give the proper protection.



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Luke S

05-15-2006 08:01:32




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Bob, 05-15-2006 07:53:42  
Ok, which part is the plungerhead knife? My wife goes right by the Deere dealer everday so I'll have her pick-up some shear pins. If one breaks, do you just replace and go, or does something have to be re-timed?



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old

05-15-2006 09:12:18




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Luke S, 05-15-2006 08:01:32  
Pick up the owner manual for it when you get the shear pins/bolts. JD still has them and you will be a long ways ahead if you have one, it tells you almost every thing you will need to know on how to work/use that baler



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Bob

05-15-2006 08:42:28




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Luke S, 05-15-2006 08:01:32  
At the right rear of the area where hay enters the bale chamber, there is a stationary knife, and the plunger has a matching knife at it's right side. These knives need to be SHARP and shimmed to the correct clearance as the bypass each other, cleanly shearing the hay as the plunger moves backwards. This helps the baler operate smoothly, and makes for nice bales.

I don't have my owner's manual at hand for the exact knife setting details. You really should get one, as all details of timing and knotter adjustments are in there! Check ebay, or call Deere @ 1-800-522-7448. The books are pricey, but INVALUABLE to have when using the baler.

Baler shearpins can shear because of an overload from a big "slug" of hay entering all at once, or from timing problems, and every odd once in a while, a pin may shear for no apparent reason.

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TimS

05-16-2006 08:29:45




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to Bob, 05-15-2006 08:42:28  
My experience is on the 14T but the balers are similar:

The flywheel shearpin will be the one that breaks when to big a slug of hay gets stuffed in at once. I use 1/4 inch wide grade 8 2 inch long ( I will have to check the length as I need to buy some more ) for that shear pin, that is the same as what JD specifies.

I haven't had any of the other shear bolts break, the pickup has a clutch on mine so that will slip once in a while if the pickup jams up.

The baler doesn't have to be retimed when a shear bolt breaks.

The 14T has the same auger to push the hay towards the bale chamber. It seems to work fine in the fescue/grass mix we bale, not sure what your uncle is concerned about.

Having the knives sharp that shear the hay off helps a lot as others have mentioned.

I would suggest getting the manual, if you have to adjust the knotters any the manual is critical to do this properly.

Hopefully you won't need to, but if you have intermittent tieing problems, check the tucker fingers. Those have a wear point and can get a bit sloppy and not hold the twine up against the needle fingers properly all the time causing intermittent tieing....

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TimS

05-16-2006 08:31:30




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 Re: 24T questions? in reply to TimS, 05-16-2006 08:29:45  
Oh and one more thing, our 14T makes better bales when fed a nice big windrow even if we have to really slow down to not overstuff it.

The thinner windrows tend to make more banana shaped bales while the bigger windrows fed slow make nice bales.



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