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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok???

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bruce in ks

04-11-2006 16:52:00




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Is there any reason why I can't take the hyd cylinder off my JD A front loader I dont use and use it as a hyd toplink on my big oliver 1855? The cylinder has 1" pin holes, the same as my turnbuckle toplink bar I have on the oliver. This hyd cylinder doesn't have the ball ends like my turnbuckle toplink though. I assume those balls allow for some side to side sway? If it isn't there, will the hyd cyl ends break? What if I chain tight my lower lift arms so I minimize sway? I only want to use this hyd cylinder to adjust the angle on a small rear facing dirtscoop that I have modified to scoop out some small trees I planted close together 2 years ago. I have cut out one side lower than the bank of trees so I am below them when I back the scoop towards them to scoop under the root ball. Then will take a sharp shooter and cut the far side before use the lift arms of the tractor to lift the trees out of their spot. I have 41 trees to do this for, so this was my best plan not involving shovel work. Can I get away without ball ends if I am careful? I read someone suggesting welding ball ends on, but I would rather keep this cyl as it is just for this little project if I can get away with it.

Thanks for any comments!!!

Also, will I plan on using the remotes on my Oliver for this cylinder, I assume this will work? Dont know much (anything) about remotes, and little about if I need a particular kind of hyd cylinder for this.

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Butcher

04-13-2006 18:39:05




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
third party image

Here is a pic of the ones I made. I use the hyd. top link for a 7'snowblower, sickle mower, and a back blade. 1750 Oliver, $40 cyl from TSC. Never bent anything. Common sence.
Go to your local machine shop and get 2 pieces of heavy walled tube with 1"id. drill out to 1and 1/16 dia.(this makes hookup and unhook alot easier). Then get 2 2"by 3" pieces of 1" flat stock. Drill a 1" and 1/16 hole in that. Clamp together and burn them together. Done deal. you will love the control after you get used to it.

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Leroy

04-12-2006 05:48:31




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
Hydrolic pressure, the amount of pressure used on the Oliver system will blow out the side of a cylinder made for that John Deere on any job. Get a 3500# pressure cylinder for that Oliver instead of the 1000# preasure cylinder for The John Deere. You don't want to be around when that cylinder blowes up and covers you with hot oil and you have to go to the hospital for burns.



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bruce in ks

04-12-2006 22:35:19




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to Leroy, 04-12-2006 05:48:31  
It's not an actual jd hyd cyl, brand new red looking hyd cylinder, guess I should have said that. I think I am talked out of trying this cylinder. Too much chance on breaking it sounds like. Thanks for all the responses. Will bite the bullet and buy the real McCoy. Unless I can figure out what JMS from MN said:

buy/make a fitting for that purpose- sort of like two holes at right angles to each other. Allows for vert/horiz pivot.

not picturing that too good, maybe I will figure it out.

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JMS/MN

04-13-2006 08:21:50




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-12-2006 22:35:19  
Picture would be worth many words here. Get a flat piece of steel, one inch thick, two inches wide, three inches long. Drill a 1 inch hole near one end. On the opposite end you weld a heavy wall pipe, 1 inch ID, the length of which fits inside your cylinder yoke. Weld this along the end of the two inch wide section of your flat steel, so the holes are at right angles to each other. You'll need to trim away excess steel to allow clearance for the cylinder yoke and allow pivoting at the tractor mounting. You could also use two flat pieces, notching them together to get more weld surface, but still they need to be at right angles to each other.

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Leroy

04-13-2006 06:30:27




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-12-2006 22:35:19  
What he is talking is a replacement end for a top link that you cut the old off and weld the new on and he is thinking about cutting the yoke off both ends of regular cylinder and welding those on and you would ruin the cylinder for anything else and cost as much as the correct link



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Joe(TX)

04-12-2006 05:14:15




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
I tried it but ended up bending the rod. Not enough room on the cylinder base to pivot as it needs.



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Joe(TX)

04-12-2006 05:12:42




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
I tried it but ended up bending the rod. Not enough room on the cylinder base to pivot as it needs.



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Hugh MacKay

04-12-2006 05:02:01




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
Bruce: I've never had any personal experience in trying this however one of my neighbors did and he bent more hydraulic rams then one would care to mention. He was using his for tilt on a 3 point forklift mast. He tried numerous things to make the hitch more rigid. Finally he went and bought a new cylinder with balls on each end, that cured his problem.



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Nebraska Cowman

04-12-2006 04:33:20




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
using a smaller pin would give you a little "play"



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JMS/MN

04-11-2006 18:53:59




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 Re: hyd cyl toplink, no ball ends ok??? in reply to bruce in ks, 04-11-2006 16:52:00  
You can buy/make a fitting for that purpose- sort of like two holes at right angles to each other. Allows for vert/horiz pivot.



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