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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

sills for hay rack

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Rich Iowa

03-18-2006 16:42:04




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Has anyone tried using LVLs (Laminated Veneer Lumber) for the sills on a hay rack? Would they be much stronger, so you could use 2)2x8 LVLs, as opposed to 3) 2x8 dimensional lumber. What about cost differance? I"ve been working for a lumber yard for 1 1/2 years now, and the thought just hit me. Anyone try this?




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Michael Soldan

03-19-2006 09:25:26




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-18-2006 16:42:04  
Rich, I am building another rack right now, just finished the sills yesterday. I have purchased 3x10x16' sills from the saw mill and they have charged me $90, so I decided on building my own this time. I used 2x8x16' and sandwiched a 3/4 plywood between, glued and nailed from each side. The two 2x8's sandwiching the plywood are then capped on top with 3/4 plywood strip the width of the laminated sill. I am not concerned about weather as the glue I use is water proof. I always spray Thompsons water seal on my racks every year and they are stored inside when haying is over. I built sills like this two years ago when I was in a hurry to get another wagon ready and they withstood heavy loads. I guess only time will tell as to how long they last but I'm guessing that at age 58 they will last as long as I want to hay! Incidentally in order to strengthen the sill I cut one laminate 4 feet long, then put in an 8' piece and then the other 4 ' piece, this gives me seams near the axles and a straight 8' piece in the centre to maximize its strenght, cost was $106 for material and two tubes of glue..didn't have to wait for the sawmill, didn't have to drive 20 miles to get them so I figure the price was about the same , did take some extra time to cut plywood and glue and nail..maybe an hour...We usually build 120 bales to a load at 50lbs per bale thats a three ton load so the rack I did handles that easily, figuring this rack to do the same....Mike in Exeter Ontario

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Rich Iowa

03-19-2006 06:30:46




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-18-2006 16:42:04  
I hadn"t thought of the weather affecting the glues in the LVL. Most of the racks I"ve seen use 3)2x8s green treat or Douglas Fir bolted together to make one sill.



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kyhayman

03-19-2006 08:39:28




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-19-2006 06:30:46  
I sure dont like the idea of bolting planks together either. Maybe alright in a drier climate but the thought of water seeping into those dark joints makes me think that they would rot from between in no time.



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Rich Iowa

03-19-2006 09:56:21




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to kyhayman, 03-19-2006 08:39:28  
How do you go about joining lumber up, just nails, nails and glue? Drive the nails straight through and bend the tips over, or at an angle? When I built my hay rack, I drove the nails in at an angle, oppisite directions. Top nail was angled toward the front of the rack, bottom nail angled toward the rear. Next set of nails were opposite, top towards rear, bottom toward front.



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kyhayman

03-19-2006 16:40:20




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-19-2006 09:56:21  
I used to build a lot to sell, before the tobacco program dried up. Some years sold 50 or 60 flats. What I found as the best compromise for price and quality was 2X10 or 3X8 white oak runners, 20' long. Decking of 1-1/2" by 8' variable width. Side boards of 2x6x20 white oak. Nailed the decking with 4-1/2" case hardened, twisted shank masonary nails (sold locally as fence plank nails, they screw in as they drive and when the lumber dries they are locked in place). Boards less than 6" got 2 nails per runner, wider got 3. Front and rear boards got 3 nails each runner. Side boards bolted with 2 per side, 3/8" diameter carriage bolts, offset at an angle. Tailgates were always the challenge. Some people wanted removeable, some not, some tilting (depended on height of tobacco barn and if they used them for hay too). I liked 2x6x5' white oak bolted to the runners with 3 1/2inch bolts each runner, and the crossboards bolted with 3/8 inch carriage bolts. Either that or 2" pipe for uprights with a 2-1/2 inch sleeve welded to an pc of angle and bolt the angle to the runners. I built/sold 3 this winter, had about $300 each in them.

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kyhayman

03-18-2006 20:16:33




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-18-2006 16:42:04  
At just under $40 each for 20' 3"x10" rough white oak not sure how much cheaper the laminate would be, and theres a lot of weather on them.



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Handyman

03-18-2006 19:31:30




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Rich Iowa, 03-18-2006 16:42:04  
they should be a little stronger but my concern would be with the glue holding them together comeing apart in the rain and humidity, you would need to seal them up somehow to keep the wet from disolving them.



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IaGary

03-18-2006 20:06:29




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 Re: sills for hay rack in reply to Handyman, 03-18-2006 19:31:30  
LVL would probably be higher cost.
Then theres the weather factor that Handyman mentioned.
Is 2x8's strong enough for your rack.
Around here most use 2-4x6's or larger for the stringers.
Just my 2 cents.



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