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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question

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pbutler

12-28-2005 07:05:53




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All the sickles I have ever had to work with have bolt on sections. But I recently aquired a 216 Bean Head that has rivet sections. I made it through last fall with only nicking 1 section-but I need to change it out. The previous owner was nice enought to give me a tool to change it-green thing with a press on one end and a punch on the other-tighten both with a 5/8 wrench.

Stupid question and I feel like a moron asking it but I am not sure how to use it and I don't want to damage anything.

I am guessing I just grind off the head with a hand gridner and then just punch it out with the punch?

Then to reinstall push the rivet through and use the press to mash the end into a new head?

Sound correct?

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vVeathered

12-28-2005 18:09:57




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to pbutler, 12-28-2005 07:05:53  
I have one of those tools and am usually close enough to the shop to justify coming home and grinding off the head of the rivet..... .. a chisel will take care of it in the field ..... . that tool is good but won"t poke out a round headed rivet and stay an effective tool for more than a couple times..... ..... still takes a chisel to lop off the top of the rivet. Most everything I have is bolted on now. Got a haybine with riveted last year and just switch to bolted when a section breaks. The center sections are all specially drilled and counter sunk and COST EXTRA..... I just take my cordless drill along..... I re-drill the sickle to counter sink the bolts and also counter sink the special sections for the middle..... ....they last just as long and cost a fraction of what FNH charges....

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Dave H (MI)

12-28-2005 11:05:17




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to pbutler, 12-28-2005 07:05:53  
I never heard of a rivet tool for knife sections that required you to grind the old head off. Could be there is more than one kind. The tool that looks like an "H" laying on it's side will, when centered on the old rivets, remove them cleanly when tightened down. No grinding ever needed on our sickles. The other side of the tool installs the new rivets. I can change a section in minutes. These tools were made for quick service out in the field and not for heading back to the shop to get a grinder. If you use a lot of old equipment around your place like we do, you really appreciate the time savings.

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pbutler

12-28-2005 11:09:20




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to Dave H (MI), 12-28-2005 11:05:17  
Thanks Dave and All! I have been replacing all new sickles with Bolt on sections but this one came on the head and is in really good shape so I don't want to throw it away.

I think I get the jist of it now-I will give it a try next time I start the combine and get the head off the ground.



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Nebraska Cowman

12-28-2005 10:22:16




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to pbutler, 12-28-2005 07:05:53  
I knock the head of the rivet off with a cold chisel if the sickle is still in the machine. Otherwise a sharp rap with a hammer will cut the rivets.



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JMS/MN

12-28-2005 07:51:06




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to pbutler, 12-28-2005 07:05:53  
The tool handles both remove and install. The punch end is used thusly: Center the punch over the rivet, tighten down the outer bolt. Extremely important to get it tight, I always used a wrench. If even a bit loose, you'll break the punch. Replacements are $3-4 at most farm stores- always keep 1-2 on hand. When the outer bolt is tight, turn the inner bolt and it will punch out the old rivet. Use the other end of the tool to form a head on the rivet- center the bottom of the tool on the factory head of the rivet, tighten down the other side to mash a new head on top. Rivet hole needs to be centered between guards to do all this- no need to remove a guard to use the tool.

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Roger in Iowa

12-28-2005 07:46:30




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 Re: Sickle Section Change-Rookie Question in reply to pbutler, 12-28-2005 07:05:53  
Yes, the best way is to grind off the head and either using the punch in the tool or a separate punch and hammer drive out the old rivets. The punches in the tool break easily. Parts are available from Deere.

Then install the new section with two rivets, one upside down so section will stay in place and not fall out. With the rivet installed with the head down, position the tool. Tighten the larger portion of the tool with the upset for the head to clamp the section to the knife back, but just snug. Then tighten the upset to set the rivet.

Remove the tool and work on the other rivet after turning the rivet so the the head is down. Again snug the larger portion of the tool to clamp the section and knife back together. Then turn the smaller to upset the rivet to hold the section in place. You only want 1/4" or maybe a little more of rivet to upset. If rivets are too long they do not upset correctly or may break the tool.

Older JD manuals have this all explained.

Good Luck,

Roger in Iowa

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