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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

7000 Planter Rebuild

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pbutler

11-29-2005 09:41:02




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I just bought and am rebuilding a JD 7000 planter-first time I have ever done a complete planter teardown/rebuild.

I am sure I will have some more questions as I get into it-but I have a couple initial questions.

1) 3 of the 4 drive sprockets (on the drive wheels)-seem very loose. The wheel bearings seem ok but just a LOT of space and play between hub and sprocket-probably 1/4-1/3 inch. Are there some spacers I can put there or is there something else I am overlooking?

2) The bearing at the top side of the transmission has been out for some time. I guess the previous owner just ran it that way. Do I have to remove the whole shaft along the entire left side of the planter to replace that?

3) All of the disc openers are about 14 1/2 to 14 1/2-so while I got it all apart I am going to replace those. Sloans Express has the complete disc for $17, or Heavy Duty ones for only $3 more each-3.5MM. If I go with the heavier ones is there anything different (other than shims) to get that set up right. Different scraper or anything? I am going to set this planter up for no-till after I get the basics so I was thinking the HD may be better.

4) John Deere has a kit to convert the closing wheels from the old roll pin attachment to the new bolt on type. Does anyone know if that also gives you the lever to adjust the pressure on those wheels-and if that includes that cast block that the closing wheel sprint attaches to or does it use the one already on the planter?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also any other advice on rebuilding that machine from someone who has done it would be great.

Thanks!

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old bones

11-29-2005 17:33:29




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to pbutler, 11-29-2005 09:41:02  
re: question #2
i replaced mine last spring on my 7000 8 row, and no i didn't have to remove the entire shaft. mine had a coupler over the shafts with cotter pins to hold it in place, and the smaller cotter pin acts as a shear pin. just pull the cotters, slide the coupler over, replace bearing. can't remember for sure, but i think i had to unbolt something else in the transmission area, but if i did, it wasn't difficult, or i'd remember for sure. either way, it was a piece of cake to replace that bearing.
go to jdparts.com and look at the exploded view to see what i mean about the shaft coupler.

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jddriver

11-29-2005 13:15:52




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to pbutler, 11-29-2005 09:41:02  
Also find a GOOD shop to check the accuracy of the seed drop(corn belts and bean brush)if in doudt replace.Spend the $$$ and put rebounders on it.Are you no till or conv til?Steve



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pbutler

11-29-2005 13:26:42




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to jddriver, 11-29-2005 13:15:52  
This planter is pretty shot-so I am just getting new precision meters for corn and Kinze meters for beans-it has cups right now.

I am no-till-but am just getting basic planter rebuilt for now. After the 1st of year I plan to add row cleaners, spiked closing wheels, and reduced inside diameter gauge wheels-still researching brands and exactly what I want to do there.



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jddriver

11-29-2005 15:55:49




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to pbutler, 11-29-2005 13:26:42  
pb there is a spec for the gap between the opening disc I believe you take 2 buisiness cards and it only have 1.75 inches between them.The frame should also be at certain hiegth.I had to add 600 lbs to our to make the row units go into the ground,we also put tractor type tires on the drives backwards to ensure positivedrive at all times.I will mesasure everything when I get to the farm on saturday steve

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JMS/MN

11-29-2005 12:27:44




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to pbutler, 11-29-2005 09:41:02  
JD and Schoup are pretty competitive on parts now. Schoup catalog- 1-800-627-6137, or www.schoupparts.com. Catalog shows lots of updates. Re: drill shaft removal to replace transmission bearings- cut it with a hacksaw, and make a split pipe coupler to recouple it, with grade 5/8 quarter inch bolts. Then you don't need to take the whole thing out. Slop in axle sprockets- not unusual- even new ones have a fair amount- compare them. Thought my 20+ year old 830 was loose, but new ones were not much different. Rotary scrapers are available for disc openers, also the cast part that goes between the gauge wheel arms, which equalizes the wheel action. I put arm bushings in once, will not do that again- it required machining, which took out the grease reserve area in the arm to allow for the bushing to go in. That leaves total cast/steel contact, rust tight in the off season. Just buy new arms when they wear, keep that pocket for grease. Consider the seed firmers as well. JD or Kinze bean meters are a big improvement over the feed cup. I also changed over to the Schoup lever attachment for setting closing wheel pressure. Also go through the seed clutch and fertilizer clutch when you have the shafts out. Maxi-Merge is an excellent design- that's why everyone else copied it- biggest advance in planter technology in the history of mechanical planters.

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pbutler

11-29-2005 12:41:06




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to JMS/MN, 11-29-2005 12:27:44  
Thanks for the input!

1 Question: When you say "go through the seed clutch and fertilizer clutch when you have the shafts out"-do you mean the gear transmission thing at the middle center where you set population? I assume that is what you mean any by go through-just replace all the bearings there if any doubt....



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JMS/MN

11-29-2005 21:57:02




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 Re: 7000 Planter Rebuild in reply to pbutler, 11-29-2005 12:41:06  
No- I don't mean the bearings- I mean the cast parts that constitute the clutches- there are two parts to each clutch. Get a parts manual to ID each part in the planter.



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