Cub Cadet 127 clutch, trans or pump problem

I assume since I still have any sort of drive ability that I did not take out the hydrostatic transmission and worse case maybe I took out the pump or pump valves. I suspect the drive clutch needs to be replaced more than anything or linkage is stuck somewhere. Does this sound reasonable or maybe my problems are more serious. Sorry I do not know much about Cub Cadets other than since I have owned it I have been very impressed with the quality of this old baby and hate to get rid of it.

Any help appreciated even on just ruling out what it is may not be the problem.

Thank you,

Art

I'm still working on the problem but it's nice to know that there are great folks here willing to offer suggestions. I might add that all of these replies are right on target as well and reasonable things to try versus some of the useless fluff that you see elsewhere in other groups.

Thanks again!

Art

OK... now from re-reading your post let me suggest this... on the first two sites go to their FAQ section (frequently asked questions) and look up hydro problems... You may have a simple linkage problem. This is what I would check for. You will have to pull the fenders off your Cub and more than likely power wash the built up dirt and oil from the area to be checked. Don't be afraid to join the forums and ask away. These sites post pictures and if you can post pictures also then you will have your Cub up and running again in no time.

Now for some things to check that could possibly be causing your troubles. This is for system jerky when starting!!!

Inspect control linkage... if defective... repair or replace/////// OK//// Inspect acceleration valves... defective... repair or replace///// OK/// Inspect charge valves... defective... repair or replace.

System operates in only one direction!!!

Check control linkage... defective... repair or replace/////OK/// Inspect charge valves... defective... repair or replace/// Inspect acceleration valves... defective ... repair or replace.

LOSS of power or won't operate in either direction!!!

Check oil level in reservoir...OK...Check control linkage....Inspect By-pass valves... IF OK then CHECK CHARGE PRESSURE...if charge pressure is LOW... inspect inlet filter and if clogged... replace.... //OK//... Inspect charge relief valve.... defective then Repair or replace.... Inspect implement relief valve.... defective... Repair or replace....inspect charge pump... again R or R..../////.... if this is oka then replace transmission pump and motor

IF Charge pressure is OK>check system pressure and if it is LOW then inspect acceleration valves ... defective... R or R.... if OK... inspect Charge check valves... defective ... defective... R or R... OK replace transmission pump and motor.

OKAY.... now since I really don't know how mechanically inclined you may be and I don't mean to be disrespectful... please see below...

Now one more thing... I know that some folks don't like me to recommend other sites however I believe that sometimes the other sites actually do help people out with their problems. SSoooo... since you may live close to someone in one of these sites here goes... There are many knowledgeable and friendly people more than willing to share their knowledge and help you.

Link

Link

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ihccubcadettractors/

Hydro 125:

I am confused. You state "Inspect acceleration valves".

Attached is a picture of the CC 127 Hydro. Just where are these acceleration valves..???

Footnote... still think checking the linkage first would be a good idea. The worn parts are sometimes plentiful enough to keep one from getting bored for sometime. The pumps... well they are actually quite rugged.

Is there anything else I can do like try an addative to loosen things up or perhaps drain this all again and actually look behind the rear cover to see if there is any garbage inside. I really hate to pull the transmission but I honestly feel at this point like that may be what ends up needing to be done. I think at this point it may need a rebuild or at minimum a valve/seal for reverse side.

The reason the fluid was so low is because like an idiot when I changed the filter the first time since owning this (not very long) I thought it was a motor oil filter. Yes that's right I admit it I can't read english where it plainly says "hydraulic oil filter"! Not to mention this filter is about 2 feet away from the motor which might also indicate it's not motor oil to a more intelligent person. What a genius! I really feel stupid but I am new to this machine and unfortunately had to learn the hard way. Since I originally changed the filter I ran this as per normal approximately 3-4 hours. When the problem I posted here started it was run maybe 20 minutes as I was not driving at the time when reverse gave out.

Is there any hope short of rebuilding the transmission where when pushed in reverse when inching along it does still get up to a strong 4mph? There is just not enough initial hydraulic pressure building up initially in reverse to move it along and again after further work I feel it may be a stuck hydraukic valve, a damaged or melted seal in the transmission or clog of some sort. Can this be flushed in place with an air hose or again would a transmission addative help loosen things up?

I think you are right it may not have a clutch. My manual shows one that goes to several different models but I do not see the large spring depicted in the pictures. I assume the hydrostatic transmission does everything the more hydraulic pressure in whatever direction the more drive speed. Anyway with the testing I have done once this thing is going in reverse long as there is still momentum you can go from neutral back into gear and it grabs strong.

I am going to say definitely a transmission related problem now that I know more.

Again no problems with forward at least being there but reverse is still flakey and just creeps inch by inch.

Thank you very much for the reply and any other comments welcome.

Art

When changing oil on a Cub Cadet rear end and hydro, it is recommended that the rear cover be removed. The reason for this is, that if the recommended hydraulic oil was used (HyTran), that oil has properties of collecting water and clumping it. The only way to remove this gunk is to remove the cover and clean it out. Simply loosening the lower three bolts won't accomplish this.

As I stated before, your only option would be to completely clean the rear end out, install new HyTran, and the correct Cub Cadet Hydraulic Oil Filter and hope for the best.

Thank you for the response to take the rear cover off and actually clean it out. I will do that and again replace with new filter, rear gasket and new hydraulic oil. I just wanted to know if there may be any tubing (send or receive lines) inside the rear end or elsewhere that I could blow out with air to release any clogged debris.

Thank you for your comments.

Art