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Garden Tractors Discussion Forum

400 John Deere drive shaft

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Irv(IA)

02-09-2006 17:54:33




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I just acquired a 400 1982 John Deere 400. To my dismay, after a real close look underneath, I found that both U-joints on the driveshaft are bad. A dealer had just reworked the engine before the guy I got it from purchased it so I'm sure they had to see it and put it back in that way. So I resigned myself to taking the engine out to get to the shaft but I can't figure out how to get the knuckle off the hydro. I used a bar to pry between the knuckle and hyro, but I got nervous about that. The same with heating it up-- I figured I'd ruin the seal. There is no pin or setscrew in it. I don't have a manual for it yet, so I figured I'd ask the best source ever-----this forum. Any body know?? Thanks
Irv

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Bob

02-10-2006 08:38:41




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 Re: 400 John Deere drive shaft in reply to Irv(IA), 02-09-2006 17:54:33  
Unfortunately, Deere used "U" joints that are not repairable, so you have the buy the whole assembly for about $455 (or find complete replacement joints that will match up, and weld them to the shaft), and weld on the fan.

The driveshaft slides on splines on the hydro pump, where it should be loose, to allow slight movement, as the shaft is pinned solid to the engine.

If it won't come off the hydro, try penetrating oil, and if that won't loosen it up, you might try to saw a slot in the yoke, and speading it a bit, to loosen it up.

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Irv(IA)

02-17-2006 19:28:25




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 Re: 400 John Deere drive shaft in reply to Bob, 02-10-2006 08:38:41  
Bob, I finally got the shaft off the hydro. This one has a keyed 3/4" shaft. I did what you suggested using the penetrating oil and decided to try a little heat on the end of the knuckle and with a pry bar finally got it off. I did my homework and found a larger u-joint that I think will fit under there. I ground the welds off the fan turned the rear joint for it. A new 1" solid shaft, two joints and I'm good to go for about $75.00. Beats $455 for sure. Thanks much for the info.
Irv

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