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Garden Tractors Discussion Forum

points to magnetron

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bdunegan

03-29-2005 05:46:50




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was given a sears lt-10 with a supposedly stuck 11hp b&s on it. put wrench on pulley and bumped, and come unstuck. seems to have lots of compression. This thing has points on it. have another 10hp with magnetron that is toast. how hard is it to convert points to this magnetron setup. what year did they stop with the points ignition. also if i use points, what do they set on, and what does the coil pack set on.

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JT

03-29-2005 05:58:31




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 Re: points to magnetron in reply to bdunegan, 03-29-2005 05:46:50  
Take the coil off the junk one, put it on your good one, that is the only thing you have to do. Then hook up your kill switch where your old one hooked up. Pretty easy swap.



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bdunegan

03-29-2005 09:56:21




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 Re: points to magnetron in reply to JT, 03-29-2005 05:58:31  
will i need to use the magnetron flywheel, and do i take my points and dust cover off or just unhook them? what about the alternator? will i still use the one on it or will i need to change?



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JT

03-29-2005 12:46:44




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 Re: points to magnetron in reply to bdunegan, 03-29-2005 09:56:21  
Nothing has to be changed except for the coil. you will use the same flywheel. you do not have to take the points, dust cover or nothing off. you use the same stator. You can take off flywheel, unhook wire to points, leave them ther, put f/w back on, put the magnetron coil on, hook up the kill wire to control plate, put housing back on, you are ready to go. The only engine that uses a special flywheel is the complete cast iron engines. All the aluminum flywheel engines are all the same.

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bdunegan

03-29-2005 16:24:38




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 Re: points to magnetron in reply to JT, 03-29-2005 12:46:44  
got it converted, and motor turned over about a dozen times and took off after setting at least two years. rebuilt carb, and ran fine for about 15 minutes, and then started pulling oil into carb and smoking like crazy. i am thinking a valve has stuck half open and maybe has a piece of carbon under it not letting it close. motor has no noise in it at all, but the only way to start it now is off a car battery. it turns over slow, but fires right up, and runs great till it starts pulling oil. am i on the right track with the valves?

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