? for Burrhead

The way I do is to freeze the sleeves in my deep freezer over night and then take them out of the freezer and install one at a time. They push in pretty easy frozen. Then after they reach room temperature I hone the sleeve out to the right piston clearance.

Since you already have the sleeves installed I would just hone the sleeve out til it gets a piston clearance of 0.0035 to 0.0055 in all the cylinders. The freezing is just for ease in installation, they still have to be honed for the piston clearance.

To answer the other question. There is'nt anything but friction that holds the sleeve in place. Take a straight edge and place the sleeve at exactly level with the block deck and then hone the cylinder inside of the sleeve for the correct piston clearance.

Thanks for that information. I was thinking that if we ever met I was going to avoid shaking your hand as I prize my fingers. Thats a good tip.

The cylinders must still be honed or bored to the correct size and we use a Locktite bonder on the outside of the sleeve to make sure.

regards
Brian

My thanks for the Loktite info. That had'nt ever crossed my feeble mind. I use it on everything else tho so I'll give it a try.
I've got a Super Dexta here that the owner cranked on ether so I'll put sleeves and pistons in it next week, it's got no compression at all on #2 and the #3 is only 45 lbs. The valve cover breather tube looks like a rocket taking off.

Have you ever had problems with the sleeves??
The only Perkins I've ever had to jerk a sleeve had been run hot with broken rad hoses.

Steven B

1. If the sleeves look good or you were'nt going to replace them always check them for egg shaped and also for being bell shaped. Sometimes the sleeve will balloon out because of the ether even if it is'nt worn bad or appear to be ruined.

2. Be sure to check the valves and seats real good. Sometimes the ether will warp the valves and/or crack the valve seats. Since you're already building the engine it would be a good time to have the new type valve guides put in while you work the head.
That way you won't have to be putting additives in the fuel for valve lube.

I always like to save some money and if there is a Perkins dealer near you the sleeve kits should be about 1/2 price compared to NH or Massey dealers parts.

The last Perkins I built no one except Ford had the parts in stock. They wanted $835 for the rebuild kit.

I went to Perkins and they ordered the same kit for me. At Perkins it only cost $445. For that much difference I can wait 24 hours on the UPS truck. UPS delivered it to my farm shop so I did'nt have to drive 70 miles to pick it up the next day.

P.S- I always have the injector pump and injectors calibrated and new seals put in the pump at the engine rebuild time.

I belive that the block has to be machined to accept Perkins sleeves, is this right? Is it worth the effort? The tractor only does light work.

We will definatly be doing the head and injectors, we will take a chance with the pump and maby do that after the rebuild.

The person who got this little beauty kooked on tractor cocain should be shot at dawn.

Thanks
Steven

Naw the block won't have to be honed out. I just run a ball type cylinder hone in it enough to clean the crud out of the block so the sleeve will slide in better.

After the sleeve is seated it will need to be honed out inside the cylinder to the right tolerances.