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New owner of Gas Ford 2000

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DocXmas

01-14-2008 03:59:01

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I am a new tractor owner and new to the list so take pity if I say something stupid. I just bought the above described Ford 2000. Ran great when I checked it out but after getting it home and letting really run for a while a couple things happened that I don't know if should be worried about and what would be the steps to correct them.

1. The temperature gauge pegged out to hot but it didn't seem that hot and didn't run at an idle any differently. Should I replace the instrument cluster as a start or is there a part father down the line that would make more sense to replace? If it is the gauge is there a cheaper more accurate way to go than buying the entire cluster (the tach doesn't work either). Or could this really be a cooling problem.

2. Runs great at mid throttle and in lower gears really cuts out at higher gears and throttle positions. I have no idea what to do about that and if I should even be concerned.

3. Bought it as is and it had no leaks after it warmed up there was oil leaking some where around the front of the engine and seeping down on the left side underneath the power steering pump. How do I investigate to see if that is significant?

4. What oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid etc do you guys recommend also should I go with brand filters or are there after market things available.

Thanks!

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JR in nwmo

01-14-2008 21:48:25

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

For your oil leak look between the head and the block, have seen them leak there before,has someone installed the wrong temp sender in it? you might ckeck the valve cover gasket an bolts to see if they are tight,enjoy that 2000 JR

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RodInNS

01-14-2008 19:31:09

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

The normal suspect for a guage reading hot like that is a bad voltage stabilizer on the back side of the instrument cluster. It's the place where power is fed into the cluster and it knocks the voltage down to 10V or so. When they go bad they don't knock the voltage down, thus the gauges both get full battery voltage. If the fuel gauge is acting the same way or reading full all the time, I'd suspect the voltage stabilizer. If it's normal then I would look at the wiring from the temp gauge to the sender and check for a ground. Also check the sender for continuity to ground. It should show high resistance until it pegs at 230 F where it should read zero resistance.

2. Check for vacuum leaks to the vacuum advance on the distributor and check the fuel flow into the carb. It should have a good steady flow if you open the float bowl drain... Otherwise I'm nto too familiar with those carbs.

3. Power wash (or steam jenny) and get it clean so you can see where the leak is. It's not uncommon for them to weep/wet stack at the exhaust manifold and have that run down the side of the engine if it's been piddling around doing nothing. Otherwise I'd expect the only other leak on the left side would be from the power steering resevoir itself which is often easily cured with an oil and filter change and renewing the o-ring on the resevoir which is part of the filter kit.

4. Use a good diesel rated engine oil in a viscosity range for your climate. 15W40 is common, but in winter I use a DIESEL RATED 10W30 in tractors that get cold started in freezing weather. You might have to look around to find a diesel rated 10W30 though...
The power steering and hydraulics use Ford/NH 134D or an equivelant TDH that meets that spec. There are a variety of good oils that meet the spec, and a few that don't. Just read the label.
I've always used NH filters which are presently made by FleetGuard. FG is a top of the line filter. Wix is also good along with Baldwin. I'd shy away from Fram personally...
Coolant should be any diesel rated coolant/low silicate, etc. Toss in a bottle of coolant conditioner as well. I use FleetGuard's DCA4 because it's easily available around here. Many other will also supply it...

Rod

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Lanse

01-14-2008 17:58:35

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H I !!! in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

Congrads on the tractor, always liked the 2000s

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DocXmas

01-14-2008 17:44:42

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to old, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

Thanks for all the great info. Did the temperature check tonight. Ran it five minutes and the gauge pegged. I had a thermometer in the whole time and it never moved. Stuck my finger in the radiator just to check and the water was just warm.
So my plan is to replace the sending unit and see what happens. I will post an update along with some pictures of the oil leaks to get ideas.

Thanks again to everyone!!!

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Bustedknuckles

01-14-2008 13:31:25

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

1. I would do like some of the other posters suggested, check for plugged radiator. Do a temp test. Check the thermostat- place in boiling water and see if it opens. Check and make sure your fan belt is tight. Before changing the cluster try replacing the sending unit (cheaper and easier)
2.You just bought the tractor? I would put fresh gas in and try it. Could also be the carb may need adjusted or cleaned out.
3.The fords have a breather tube close to that locatation could just be moisture coming out of the tube. You can also check your power steering reservor to see if it is foaming, that would also cause a leak.
4. As far as fluids treat your tractor like a car, use the correct fluids for the temperature /climate you are in ( a manual would help you determine this). You should be able to get most of your filters at an auto parts store.

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Bob Thomas

01-14-2008 09:02:08

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

In the deep south any sign of overheating runs up bunches of red flags. GlennIdaho's suggestion would be my first move. If in fact the thermometer does indicate signs of overheating, I would drain the radiator, take a flashlight and look for plugged flues. If they appear clean, chunk the thermostat and buy a new one. Look for soft hoses and make sure the radiator shroud is in place. Then recheck with a thermometer. If the radiator is plugged my advice is to buy a new one.
I have construction equipment and the money and time lost attempting to clean a radiator is wasted for me. If you roast an engine due to overheating the repair cost far exceed the cost of a new radiator.

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Brian in MA

01-14-2008 09:23:22

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to Bob Thomas, 01-14-2008 09:02:08

Not to mention that after you lunch the engine, you still need to replace the radiator.

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GlenIdaho

01-14-2008 08:32:47

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

Congratulations on your tractor. Regarding your possible overheating problem first look for any leaks in the system. If none found borrow your wife's candy or meat thermometer, start the tractor and let it warm up and then take the temp of the coolant in the radiator to see if you have an overheating problem. The thermostat should open around 157 deg and fully open around 180 deg. As with any radiator CAUTION should be used when removing the radiator cap. You may have a bad thermostat, clogged radiator (Inside tubes or outside cooling fins), loose fan belt, timing off, need coolant or worse. Some gauges seem to look as if they run hotter that other do. Have fun with your tractor. Hope this helps.

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Balatonm

01-14-2008 08:15:57

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

Wellcome to the site,

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souNdguy

01-14-2008 05:48:43

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Re: New owner of Gas Ford 2000 in reply to DocXmas, 01-14-2008 03:59:01

Sounds like you have a 3cy 2000.

First thing i would do is get a set of manuals.

The reprint owners manual is not much help.. but is so cheap you might as well get it as it has general tractor 'use' info... and explains thing like draft control.. and remote hyds.. etc..

A aftermarket shop manual like an I&T fo-31 is ok.. and realitively cheap... cheap enough to have even if you get the more expensive and more extensive ford shop manual.

Go ahead and do a full tune up and fluid / filter change just ti find out where you are at.

Depending on temp range.. a sae 30w or 15-w40 oil is fine for that machine unless you are in arctic or desert climates.

I don't own a 2000.. but in general:

serivce the air cleaner.. if it is oil bath, remove it and rinse it in solvent of choice.. many of us like diesel or kerosene.. etc... then dribble some oil down in it, and then refill the cup with engine grade oil.

change crankcase oil and filter. Not sure if these still use the motorcraft fl-1a spin on or not.. but you should be able to check the filter that is on it. if it is a cannister.. check it to see if it is a napa 1004 cartridge.. etc.

Service the trans/hyd/rear end oil. Generic utf can be used if it meets the CNh m2c134d spec. 9 most do ).. i get mine at walmart or TSC.. whichever is cheaper..

Points and new wires and condensor and distrib cap.. heck.. get a coil for it unless it also looks new.

Clean up the engine wher ethe leak is so you can monitor it.

Oh yeah.. post some pics .. we love pics.. and congrats on the new ownership.

soundguy

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