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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
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Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post)

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skycarp

06-04-2005 20:01:54




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What I have:
Converted a Ford 801 gas from 6v to 12v using a complete package kit from Tisco. I continue to use the 6 v starter, having rebuilt it.

The problem:
Starter solenoid will not work as intended.

Details:
I rewired the tractor following the directions sent with the 12v conversion kit, to a T. All systems seem to work as intended except the solenoid. I had a new solenoid on the shelf that I originally installed but it did not work so I ordered a new one from Tisco, Part number D2AF11450AA. The label on the new solenoid says “OEM applications: 742716 Ford Tractors 2000
-3000 1965/up with 4 ½ diameter starter.” This is the only one I could find in the Tisco catalog that seemed to match what I needed.

I installed the new solenoid, connected all the wires in the wiring harness sent with the 12v kit following their diagram as follows:

Red wire to Alternator and to plus side of Ampmeter.
White wire to plus side of coil and to right side of Resistor.
Red/white wire to battery side of solenoid and to minus side of ampmeter.
Orange wire to –I- post on solenoid and to left side of terminal block.
Yellow wire to –S- post on solenoid and to starter switch.
Jumper wire from left side of Resistor to left side of terminal block.
Left side wire of key switch to left side of terminal block.
Jumper wire from right side of terminal block to minus side of ampmeter.
Right side of key switch to right side of terminal block.

When I turn the key on, I have power to the –I- post on the solenoid, when I turn the key off I do not have power to the –I- post. With the key on when I press the starter button nothing happens. I though I had a bad starter button so I took the –S- wire off and went direct to ground with the key on. Nothing happened. Transmission is in neutral, and the starter switch fully depresses.

With the key on, when I jump from the –I- post to the –S- post, the starter works fine. With the key off, nothing happens with I jump from –I- to –S- post. I checked the starter switch wire (the yellow) for continuity and it was fine.

With the key on, I have power to the –I- post, I jumped from ground to the –S- post and nothing happened. My understanding of solenoids, power to the –I- post warms up the solenoid, and when pressing the starter switch it goes to ground and completes the circuit. This isn’t happening.

Questions:
Have I done something wrong in the wiring?
Do I have another bad solenoid?

I am going this alone on a Saturday so I am stuck. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Sorry for the long post.

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john in la

06-04-2005 20:20:15




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 Re: Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post) in reply to skycarp, 06-04-2005 20:01:54  
You do not have a bad solenoid. You have the wrong one.
Try this. Take the wire of both small post. Turn key on. Touch the hot wire that was on the I post to the S post. It should crank.

The solenoid for the 601/801 2000/4000 built pre 1965 is different from the 2000/4000 post 1965.

The post 1965 solenoid should have a push button in the dash or a key start like a car. The S post is hooked to the starter button in dash and then to power. When you push the button it sends power to the S post and starts. The I post is hooked to the coil to bypass the resistor to give a full 12v's to the coil while cranking.

The pre 1965 solenoid works like you have it outlined.

Look at the link below. You have relay #UF40690 but you need relay #UF40670 or #UF40680. I suggest you get #UF40680 from the diesel tractor because it is made to work on 12v's

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txgrn

06-05-2005 06:26:08




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 Re: Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post) in reply to john in la, 06-04-2005 20:20:15  
And the 4 1/2 starter is for gas and the 5 1/2 is used on diesel; hence the distinction in your instructions.

Mark



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skycarp

06-04-2005 20:24:20




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 Re: Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post) in reply to john in la, 06-04-2005 20:20:15  
Now that was what I was looking for. All 12v solenoids are not alike! Learned something today.

Thanks for the information.



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Ol Chief

06-05-2005 10:06:03




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 Re: Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post) in reply to skycarp, 06-04-2005 20:24:20  
In line with the above post ,I seem to be in the same boat or at least a similar one.I have an Ford 2000 ,4 cyl gas,6 volt pos. grnd.The starter solenoid relay coil is open and will not start so I decided to change, to convert to 12 v system on my own not using a kit. I purchased a solenoid from TSC recomended for Ford 2000 but does not work.I do not have a schematic to work from so am not familiar w/ I and S terminals.Now I am assuming that I is the upper small post and S to be the lower one. I had assumed that the coil was open between I and S on the new solenoid because there is no continuity across those posts. I also checked and found that the lower post is shorted to ground or purposely connected that way.I was not aware of the bypass feature to allow full coil voltage when starting.Did I miss something ?? It would seem to me, stupid to have a push button switch and a neutral start safety switch to crank the engine.Or did Ford have a better idea?I have noted that there is an empty hole in the board dash which caused me to wonder if there was once a pushbutton there.Can I get clear of this problem by use of the diesel solenoid?

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john in la

06-05-2005 18:37:47




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 Re: Starter Solenoid Problems (Long Post) in reply to Ol Chief, 06-05-2005 10:06:03  
You also have the wrong relay. See when you ask for parts for a 2000 most think of the 3 cyl 2000 built from 1965 to about 1975. A 4 cyl 2000 is the same thing as a 601 and uses the same parts.

Lets see if I can explain this in layman terms.
(Caution!!!! the pictures are a quick draw up for reference and should not be used to hook wires up)

On a 601/801 or a 2000/4000 built 1964 and before the relay works like this.
There are 4 post. 2 big and 2 small. The 2 small post are hooked together via wire windings in the relay. Power gets hooked to 1 small post when ever the key is on. It comes out the other small post and to the push button on the trans. When you push the button it grounds this power so elec flows to ground. This flow of elec through the relay causes a solenoid to move connecting the 2 large post and it starts. (It really does not matter which side you hook the battery or starter to because the power will flow either way. This is the ONLY relay that this applies to.)

third party image


On the 1965 and up 2000/3000/4000 the relay works like this. There are 4 post. 2 large and 2 small. One of the small post is hooked to ground 24/7. This is the S post. You would hook a wire from this post to a 2 wire push button. The other wire on the push button gets hooked to power with key on. When you push the button it sends power through the button and to the S post and on to ground. This flow of power moves a solenoid and connects the 2 large post and it starts. You must make sure that you have the battery and starter hooked to the correct post because the other small post "I" gets hooked to one of them while cranking. The I post gets hooked to the coil to bypass the inline resistor to apply a full 12V's to the coil while cranking. This is the same way a car relay works and is why a car relay from the local parts store will not work on the 601/801.

third party image

Now go Here and read about how to hook up a 12v conversion that really works.

Now if you need a wiring diagram look Here and see if you can find one that will work for you. I think you will want to use #5 on the bottom left.

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