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3000 Unload Valve

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GeorgeW.

05-10-2005 19:55:08

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Finallly back to the tractor, after a few car repairs and a half dozen honey doos.
71 Ford 3000 diesel. Have no 3 point lift. It was suggested earlier that the unload valve may be sticking. Pulled the cover today, then pulled cylinder assembly. The piston moves free if air is applied. There is a plug that the shop manual shows to pull to get to the unload valve. It's tapped, book says use a slide hammer. I found a bolt to fit it correctly, and tried my big slide hammer with the bolt through the chain but had no luck. Looking for suggestions on how to pull this plug besides the slide hammer. Heat? BFH? I don't want to damage it obviously as I am not even sure this is the reason I don't have a lift yet. What have I gotten myself into??? Arrrg.
My Email is open if you don't wish to post here, any help would be appreciated for this car guy.....and wanna be tractor guy!

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john in la

05-11-2005 10:10:46

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Re: 3000 Unload Valve in reply to GeorgeW., 05-10-2005 19:55:08

Well I can tell you how I got the plug out of my 801 but it may not be of much help.

If your have a chain hooked between the slide hammer and the bolt you may be pulling to one side. This will NOT work. You need to pull straight ahead or side to side. Try hooking the chain at the middle with the bolt and pulling from both ends at the same time.

Now since I do not have a slide hammer I did mine this way.
PB blaster
More PB blaster
Then I took a box end wrench that was to small for the head of the bolt and put it on the bolt. (like a washer) Then tapping no I mean hitting with a hammer from one side then the other back and forth. Tapping on head of bolt to drive it in. Just when I was about to give up and say when the unload valve may not be bad anyway it started to move a little.
More PB blaster and I finally got it to come out. Once you get it to move a little it comes right out.

Good Luck.

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GeorgeW

05-11-2005 17:45:52

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Re: 3000 Unload Valve in reply to john in la, 05-11-2005 10:10:46

Thanks John. I too felt that trying to pull with the slide hammer with chain was not going to pull straight. The attachment has a hook on it, so you can run the bolt through one link in the center and hook the other end and get it really close to center...but I am not convinced. I am letting it soak as you suggested, but I have a piece of flat steel that I am going to try to make into a puller so it pulls straight. Span the metal on risers, drill a hole in the center of the metal and run the bolt into the plug hole. Use washers to keep the bolt from bottoming out and tighten bolt. That should make it pull 100% straight I would think. I plan to try it tomorrow or in the next few days anyway, for now a squirt of PB every time I pass by can't hurt!
Now when I get this plug out, what am I looking for? I'm guessing if the valve won't move, that is probably what is causing the problem. Time will tell I suppose, cross one bridge at a time.
I'll let 'ya know how the plug removal goes.
Thanks again, GeorgeW in TX

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john in la

05-12-2005 17:55:14

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Re: 3000 Unload Valve in reply to GeorgeW, 05-11-2005 17:45:52

Well once I got the plug out I found that my valve was moving freely. With the plate off the back side you can push the valve out. It will have a o-ring on it. If yours is stuck I would inspect and consider replacing the bushings while it is apart. Most likely what is making the valve stick if it is. Since my valve moved freely I just replaced the o-ring and put it back together.

WARNING!!!!! !!!!! I have read post by Zane from the 8N board about this valve. He knows these hyd's inside out. He states that you MUST use the o-ring made for this valve. Not some close fit o-ring out of a universal set. Ford has the correct o-ring.

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GeorgeW

05-13-2005 14:03:50

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Re: 3000 Unload Valve in reply to john in la, 05-12-2005 17:55:14

Thanks for all the great replies guys. I did get the plug pulled with the flat steel with a hole drilled in it and some flat washers for spacers. Had to add washers 3 times to get the full pull on the bolt, but it worked real easy.
Indeed the valve was stuck, or it sure seemed to be. Can't tell why, maybe just lack of use for several years. Had to use a screwdrive and hammer to knock it through after the plug was out. Cylinder and sleeve look great, no scars or rust etc. Now that the valve is out it slides in and out pretty easy, but I figure I better change the O ring as suggested. Indeed I have a multi purpose kit and the O rings are less than ideal so I just got back from my local....well not so local FNH dealer who had the correct O rings in stock. Looks like Sunday before I get done with the other honey doos around here, so maybe I can try to get it put back together then and hope for the best! Thanks again for all the help. I have an IT manual, I also have the big shop manual and then I bought the parts manual on CD. Now that has proven very handy for getting parts I need, just call FNH with a part number and problem solved. But with all that great information, I still have to turn to good old human advice and for that advice I thank you one and all! I will advise of my success, or lack of it next week!
Thanks, GeorgeW in S TX

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Robil

05-12-2005 05:31:16

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Re: 3000 Unload Valve in reply to GeorgeW, 05-11-2005 17:45:52

The unloading valve should not be that difficult to pull out. In any event, once you get it out, you need to push the unloading valve out from the other end. Be careful not to score the cylinder. The valve needs to slide very easily in the clyinder, but still provide an oil tight fit. This is accomplishded with a metal oring (or a rubber oring) around the diameter of the valve. You will see once you get it out. If the valve is sticking at any point, then that would cause the lift to stick in that position (up or down). It is better to replace the oring once you have it off in any event. Other things to look at if you have no lift is (1) selector in the position control position; (2) are you getting fluid to the lift top, that is, is your pump primed and pumping fluid to the lift cover; (3) if you have an aux. valve on the top of your lift, make sure that it is in the position to direct fluid to the lift arms; (3) lift piston orings in good condition; (3) control valve linkage all connected properly and correctly adjusted; (4) safety valve (which is in the lift cover) is not broken or open; (5) control valve is connected and operating smoothly. Good luck!

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