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Ford 5000

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07-28-2004 05:36:24

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I bought the 5000 I posted about a few days ago. Negotiated with the guy and paid some less than asking price. It is being delivered today. I would bet I will be back with questions once I start using it, etc. I have never had a diesel tractor before (all gas until now). Any advice such as oil recommendations, things to watch on a 5000. I will likely change oil, filters, etc before long as I don't know much history on the tractor. Hopefully the loose steering I noticed on the tractor is not serious. I did note the tie rod ends had some slop, so I may replace those soon. Sounds like the 5000 is a good solid tractor which is what I was after. Also I would appreciate any advise on cold weather starting on these. I never noticed if this tractor had any "cold weather assistance" in the form of an engine heater, etc. I need the tractor to start in central MO winters. I will have it inside, but the building is not heated but has electical power.

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manure master

08-14-2004 14:13:57

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Re: Ford 5000 in reply to FC, 07-28-2004 05:36:24

if it's in an inline pump, it may have an excess full button on the fuel shut off lever. push the kill switch in, pull it wide open and push this button.. make sure to idle it down as soon as it start. the button will pop back out..

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bill

07-28-2004 18:45:53

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Re: Ford 5000 in reply to FC, 07-28-2004 05:36:24

be sure to use 15w-40 diesel oil.. it will have a rating of ci-4 or the newer cj-4.. this oil is especially designed to handle the soot that gets in diesel oil, has special additives to fight the acid that comes from moisture that mixes with the sulfer from the diesel that creates sufuric acid.. and the oil is designed for extended changes... and will protect several years between changes.. you can change your oil somewhere between 100 hours to 500 hours of operation or every couple of years..

you can buy the oil in gallon containers at wally world for about $6.50 or less per gallon.. if you have the older style "cartrage" filter, go to ebay and get the spin-on adaptor to convert it to a newer type spin on filter.. then it will use the standard FL-1 motocraft or ph8a phram filter which can be had for about $2.50 or less.. so you see that oil changes will not be a problem and the new diesel oils will last much longer with better protection... use chevron delo 15w-40, or shell rotella 15w-40 or mobil delvac 1300 15w-40.. all are about $6.50 a gallon and most 5000's take about a gallon,, the rowcrops can take more..
this oil can be had all truck stops as well.. currently over the road trucks are getting up to a million miles between overhauls using this oil in canada and the US.. so as you can see,, this is not your granddads oil...

keep a good battery in it with good battery cables.. on all fords after 1-1-1965, check the postive cable for chaffing where it runs down by the gas tank.. if the battery cable is worn, CHANGE IT OUT.. many of late model tractors are burnt up becuase the battery cable shorted out due to the swing battery tray.. so keep an eye on the positive cable and when it starts to crack a little, replace it.. about once every ten years will usually do fine.. but a good battery will crank it fast,, and that is very very important for starting.. as the cranking faster will generate the compression heat needed to fire off a diesel engine.. the compression head must reach about 400 degrees to fire off and a slow cranker will NOT do it... otherwise take care and the tractor will most certain out live you... hth.. bill

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Bill(Wis)

07-28-2004 17:42:51

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Re: Ford 5000 in reply to FC, 07-28-2004 05:36:24

I ditto the comments of 2 prev posts. My neighbor bought a Ford 5000 over 20 years ago that was in his words "completely worn out". That tractor starts and runs every winter day to do chores on his dairy farm. He uses what we call a "tank heater" to get it started. Just leaves it plugged in all the time. Keeps the engine coolant warm. If you're not familiar with them they attach to the block drain and the upper hose and keep a constant circulation going. He leaves tractor parked outside uncovered. Personally, I'd through a tarp over the hood to retain a little more heat.

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Old Ford Mechanic

07-28-2004 17:27:50

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Re: Ford 5000 in reply to FC, 07-28-2004 05:36:24

FC,The 5000 Ford tractor in my opinion was one the best tractors ever built.Many are still going with thousands of hours on them.Service your tractor often and it will provide you with years of dependable service.As for cold weather cranking on some models of the 5000 a intake manifold heater was used."LOOK ON THE FRONT OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD ON THE INSIDE" if the tractor has it there will be one wire connected to it.It is activated by turning the ignition key counter clockwise.Some models had a starting fluid injection kit installed.This was located on the injection pump side of the engine.It was activated with a push button.You can also install a water jacket heater in a frost plug if you wish.Use extreme caution cranking a deisel engine with starting fluid.MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE CAN OCCUR IF ITS NOT DONE CORRECTLY.I prefer not to use it unless i have to.The main thing about cranking a deisel engine is keeping the correct size battery on the machine and keeping it in good working condition.Keep the fuel filters changed and the air cleaner serviced and it should crank easily.Use a good oil in your tractor that is recommended for a deisel engine.SHELL AND CHEVRON have exellant lubricants for this engine.If this one has an inline injector pump on it then it also requires an oil change.On the top rear of the pump is hex plug that requires a 15/16 wrench to remove it.Directly below this on the side of the pump is a plug that requires a 1/2 wrench to remove it.And finally directly below this on the very bottom of the pump is another plug.It also requires a 1/2 wrench.Each time you change oil in the engine also service the injector pump.Use the same oil you put in the engine.#1/REMOVE THE BOTTOM DRAIN PLUG AND LET THE OIL DRAIN OUT. #2/REMOVE THE PLUG ON THE SIDE AND THE PLUG ON TOP OF THE PUMP.#3/REINSTALL THE LOWER PLUG AFTER THE OIL HAS DRAINED.#4/POUR NEW OIL IN THE TOP UNTIL IT RUNS FROM THE HOLE ON THE SIDE OF THE PUMP.BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERFILL.#5/REINSTALL PLUGS AND TIGHTEN THEM.This is very critical to the life of the injector pump.Fuel tends to mix with the oil in the pump and delut it reducing its ability to lubricate properly.Other than that keep your tractor greased,gear boxes full, all filters clean,coolant level full and it should be good to go.As i said one the best tractors ever.One more thing some of the best money you could ever spend should be for manuals for your tractor.Use your serial number and buy three,operators,parts,and a service manual.you"ll never be sorry.Later.

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Dead Guy

07-28-2004 10:06:15

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Re: Ford 5000 in reply to FC, 07-28-2004 05:36:24

I have a '71 5000 in northern Wisconsin. It has never not started. I use a bit of ether in the air intake before turning it over. If it is below zero, it may take a few tries. i.e. spray into the air intake for 1/2 second, climb in and turn key. The engine fires right up but may die if it is real cold. I just repeat until it stays running. It is really helpful to have a 2nd person to spray a small amount of ether in just before it dies each time. I can't quite turn the key and get to the ether fast enough alone. Remember that too much ether is bad and I avoid it when I can.....

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