TO30 Missing oil filter unit

I was the guy looking for a fan shroud. I now have bigger problems.

Having got hold of an operators manual, I start reading and find out that my oil filter and assembly have at some point been removed from the tractor. I am sure that this cannot be good. The oil on the dipstick is very clean, but I have had it for less than 30 days and have been working on it more that I have been able to use it. Is it hard to find the oil filter assembly? If and when I find one, how hard is it to put back in? There are no obvious leaks which leads me to believe that when it was removed, it was sealed up pretty good. Will I be able to open up the orifices without dismantly the whole tractor?

In addition to the above dilema, when I checked the rear dip stick, the oil appeared milky. What is that all about.

The tractor seems to run fine until it is put under a load and then it will only run for 20 minutes before sputtering and backfiring and cutting out.

Is all lost, or is there hope in this cool old tractor. I am open to any advise and appreciate the feedback. Thanks, Mike

I have used carb cleaner to clean the stand pipe in the glass bowl holder. My screen was in very bad shape and will need to be replaced as was the gasket (cork). The screen that goes up into the tank was pushed in, and I do not think that I will be able to get it out. Is this a part that is available, or can I just get some fine screen and put together a makeshift?

I was going to flush the tank a couple of more times tomorrow. Some people have suggested that I put a water hose in it, but I have been hesitant to do that. Do you think it would be okay?

I also tried to find some plain 80 wt. mineral oil. Do you get that at a tractor store? My local Western Auto did not carry, however it appeared that most of the trans oils had some mineral oils in them. I will try a few more places.

Thanks again for your help.

Mike

Your manual should cover both models and you can use it to find out exactly what you have .

I would take a look at the plugs , plug wires , dist. cap , and coil . The plug wires were hooked up wrong on my 30 when I bought it . It would run and drive around fine but would not pull a load without sputtering and belching smoke .

Good luck and let us know what you find out !

Ford Man

Well at least I know what I am working with now.

Thanks to Jim, Phil and Ford man for the advice. At least I feel better about the missing oil filter.

I hope to put your ideas to the task this weekend and see what happens.

Man, I have a TO20!

Who knows when the "switch" in models happened . When I bought my 2N , the guy said it was a 9N . I know this is not the same as between a 20 and a 30 , but with the 30 emblems on the hood , he may have not known any better unless he dealt in tractors pretty regularly.

You would be surprised how little the folks at our local MF dealer know about the older Fergusons !

Everything on my Ferguson tractor indicates it is a 30 but I didn't pay a whole lot for it anyway .It is a heck of a good tractor and I think you will enjoy yours .

Anyway , let us know how things work out for you , be sure and get an ORC before you bushog .

Ford Man

I know that when I have tried to bush hog as is, it is a constant challenge to keep the mower at the height that I would like it. More importantly to keep the shaft from banging when it comes up too high. I hate when that happens.

Regarding the carb, I have taken the lower screw out and drained about a quart of fuel. I will try the whole tank and try the cleaning that you suggested.

Thanks, Mike

Your 20 does not have live PTO so when you mash in the clutch , the PTO stops turning .

The blades on your bushog will act like a flywheel and continue to turn when you mash in the clutch on the tractor . The bushog shaft will then turn the PTo on the tractor and "feed" power into the tractor's tranny and give you a pretty hefty shove into or onto whatever is in front of you !

The ORC is just a big ratchet and prevents feedback to the tranny . I got mine at Tractor Supply for about $60 .

My Dad has bushog without an ORC when he was young and he absolutely insisted that I get one BEFORE I ever bushoged .

The reason that your bushog goes up and down is because you have draft control but not position control . There are many explanations in the archives . Zane Thang will give you position control and will stop your problem .

Good Luck !
Ford Man