Hey Neal(IN). Nice photos!

Got a few questions . . .

1. Does pic #14 show us two casting cracks between cylinders? Are these cracks typically found in the thin "web" between the cylinders? Do these cracks appear in the top as well as in the bottom "webs"?

2. Do your "pins" go from the outside of block on the left to the outside of block on the right? And do the "pins" simply squeeze the casting together to reduce chances of further cracking? Are they simply hex head grade 5 bolts with nuts? Do you have to seal around the bolt penetration to keep the water inside?

3. What is Glyptal? Looks like dark red epoxy paint to me. Why would we want to coat the inside of our engines?

I have mine ready for block cleaning and Magna-Flux and I want to know what to look for. Many other chores keep me from working on it but I guess Rome wasn't built in a day either.

Thanks, Boogity in SW Ohio

I'm not sure if #14 shows two cracks or if the line on the right is a casting line but there are cracks between each cylinder. If you check #18 (I think thats the right one) and look closely at the area between the cylinders you will see a line running front to back. That is the crack. They run from the deck where the head mates right through the web. The pins on my engine do not go through both sides of the block. They go in through a hole on the right and screw into a threaded hole in the opposite web. I have heard that others drill straight through. As far as I can tell they only squeeze the block. I would assume this is to both prevent further cracking and prevent internal leaking. I have no idea if a sealer was used. I guess I should have stated earlier that my engine was like this when I bought it. I have no idea how it was done or who did it but it doesn't leak, inside or out.
Glyptal is not an epoxy by my definition. By that I mean that you don't mix two parts together. You just open the can, stir it well and paint it on. I believe it was developed originally by GE for use on electric motors to protect them from moisture and other contaminents. Performance engine builders have used it for years to seal the pores in the cast iron and promote quicker oil return. When I opened my engine, I found some rust inside and thought that it would be a good idea to seal up the block to protect it. I also used it on the head area under the valve cover for oil return. These engines have been running for a very long time under tough conditions without this and have a remarkable record (in my opinion) so I wouldn't say this is required. I figured it can't hurt and maybe the next person to open this up will be glad I did it.
I will say that I have about 20 hours on the oil in the engine and it looks like its never been run. Thats not a lot of time and may have a lot to do with the Total Seal rings but I'm happy about it.
This is my first tractor so many things are new but I have been building engines for many years and I'm a licensed aircraft mechanic so I have a bit of know how. I would recommend that you do as you are planning and have the block cleaned and magnafluxed. This will tell you how bad the cracks are. If they have traveled into the main bearing saddles I would toss the block. If not then I would get the cam bore checked for wear and if it is good find someone to pin the block. If you cannot find a local shop to do the job then let me know and I will try to help find someone.
Man; you'd think I come from the windy city. Hope this answers the mail. If not, ask away.

Neal