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Te-20 engine rebuild

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Keith from Miss

07-02-2001 10:22:58




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Hello, all. I'm a long-time reader of this board but never really had to ask for info until now. This weekend I took apart my engine on my 49 Te-20. I had water in my oil. I have taken the head to a machine shop to test for any cracks. I had hoped it was a head gasket but that looked ok. The pistons had a little too much play for my blood when they were in the cylinders so we took them out too. This is my thinking.....if the head checks out ok, I will have it ground and have it reground for new valves and seats. I then know I will need new rings for the pistons. I will pull the sleeves out and check for any cracks between the cylinders (as I hear this is a prob with these engines). If the block is ok, then I will install new sleeves/pistons/rings. I ordered an overhaul kit today and it says that I need to increase my bore to 3-5/16". I was hoping to not have to remove the block (split the tractor). Opinions on what I should do. Should I try and get by with the original sleeves (they look good) but get new rings. Or should I just go ahead and get the blocked bored out. The bearings looked to be in newer shape so I won't have to replace those. Any suggestions/opionion/help would be great.
Thanks,
Keith

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David Waymann

07-02-2001 12:28:14




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 Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Keith from Missouri, 07-02-2001 10:22:58  
Keith: Some great suggestions from Larry and Duner... I may be wrong about this, but if you're going to all of this trouble, you should replace your rear engine seal. I think you need to split the tractor to do this. I just split mine a few weeks ago--its not that hard. I'd be happy to give you some suggestions. Good luck, David, MI



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Keith from Missouri

07-02-2001 14:43:44




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 Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to David Waymann, 07-02-2001 12:28:14  
I'll hear some suggestions on it. Other than having a new one in there, what other advantage is there to replacing it if it isn't leaking now?



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David Waymann

07-02-2001 20:03:58




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 Re: Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Keith from Missouri, 07-02-2001 14:43:44  
Keith: If you have no leaks, leave it alone. Are you pulling the crank shaft? If not you may be able to get by without splitting your tractor. Good luck,

David, MI



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Keith from Missouri

07-03-2001 07:33:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to David Waymann, 07-02-2001 20:03:58  
As of right now, I am not pulling the crankshaft. I looked at it briefly and it looked in pretty good condition. I believe the man I bought it from did a partial rebuild of the engine and installed new bearings as they looked much newer than everything else in there.



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Duner Wi

07-02-2001 10:47:55




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 Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Keith from Missouri, 07-02-2001 10:22:58  
3 5/16" sleeves are just bigger in the inside, the outside is the same dia. as your old sleeves.
The new sleeves will increase your bore to 3 5/16" from 3 3/16". I would use plastigauge on the crank and rod journals to see how worn the bearings are.



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Keith from Missouri

07-03-2001 07:37:26




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 Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Duner Wi, 07-02-2001 10:47:55  
Thanks! Seems like a stupid question now that I think about it. The bearings looked pretty new. I believe they were replaced about 2 years ago by the man I bought it from. He told me he overhauled the engine but I think he only did a partial one as there is no way that those pistons would have that much play after only about 80 hours of use.



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John

07-02-2001 17:52:20




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 Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Duner Wi, 07-02-2001 10:47:55  
Now does going from 3 3/16" to 3 5/16" on the bore give you more HP? Or is there any way to get more HP?



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Duner Wi

07-03-2001 05:33:37




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 Re: Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to John, 07-02-2001 17:52:20  
Literature says up to 5 more HP with the bigger pistons. To me it sounds like a bit of a stretch .



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Larry

07-02-2001 10:34:48




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 Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Keith from Missouri, 07-02-2001 10:22:58  
I had water in my oil in my TO-30. I removed the engine from the tractor, disassembled it, and took it to the local machine shop (the guy there is a tractor, especially Ferguson, expert). Crank was not salvageable, not enough meat to grind; Block cracked or corroded so sleeves did not seal; head had some cracks but was salvageable; rocker shaft worn excessively.

Turns out a rebuilt short block is $1800, and a crank with bearings is $800. I bit the bullet and bought a short block, and the machine shop rebuilt my oil pump, rocker assembly, and head. Head had to be pinned, but all new valves, seats and guides. Machine shop bill was $600.

I took the opportunity to paint the beast, and now I have a fairly nice looking, running, virtually new, Ferguson TO-30. Oil pressure is outstanding, temps are normal, and oil and water are clean and nice.

It was expensive, but I couldn't have bought a tractor in a known new condition for $2500 or so, and now I plan on using this little guy for a long time.

If you have water in your oil and your head gasket is OK, my guess is a crack in the block, or corrosion at the base of the sleeves. This *can* be repaired. There is a place in Iowa that does it. One thing to consider, is how much it will cost to recondition and block and associated parts, and consider at which point it's cheaper to go with the rebuilt short block. Also - if you buy the short block, you can have it in a few days. I have learned that machine shop guys are a lot like auto body guys - real artists, and they can't be rushed!

Good luck!!

Larry

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william l. brown

07-02-2001 12:50:52




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 Re: Re: te-20 engine rebuild in reply to Larry, 07-02-2001 10:34:48  
LARRY, i have water in the oil on my TO-20.
i cannot find a tractor mechanic, they
are dying,or dead. the only one that did
this work in my area now has cancer, and
does not do this anymore. i ask someone
about a short block, and they never heard
of these for a tractor like mine.
LARRY, can you tell me where you got your
short block.
william in WRIGHT CITY, MO.



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