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Torqueing the head nuts

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Greaseman

06-08-2001 15:29:23




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First THANKYOU JOHN for your idea of heating the head. I need some ideas about torqing the head nuts down on the side above the spark plugs. I have several torque wrenchs and none look likew the will fit, any ideas??




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Neal(IN)

06-11-2001 13:45:20




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 Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Greaseman, 06-08-2001 15:29:23  
third party image

Here is the picture out of the manual (I hope). Torque should be 70 to 75 foot pounds.

Neal



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Darryl Saylor

06-12-2001 05:24:02




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 Re: Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Neal(IN), 06-11-2001 13:45:20  
Can this torquing sequence be used on a TO-20?



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Neal(IN)

06-12-2001 09:35:03




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 Re: Re: Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Darryl Saylor, 06-12-2001 05:24:02  
Darryl

I used it on my 20.
The shop manual is for TO-20, 30 and TE-20 and this is the only sequence that it shows.

Neal



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Darryl Saylor

06-12-2001 13:18:03




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Neal(IN), 06-12-2001 09:35:03  
Thanks. I saved it off to keep. Thats the first torquing sequence I have seen for it. Once again Thanks.



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Neal(IN)

06-11-2001 10:07:33




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 Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Greaseman, 06-08-2001 15:29:23  
I used a crows foot on mine and it worked fine.
As someone else said don't forget to recalculate the torque if you add to the length of the wrench.
Also don't forget to warm up the engine for 20 to 30 minutes and then let it cool completely and re-torque the head. I was surprised by how loose the nuts were when I did this.
I will try to post the correct pattern tonight.

Neal



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Jim-PA

06-09-2001 04:29:52




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 Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Greaseman, 06-08-2001 15:29:23  
I tried to use a crowfoot socket on my torque wrench but it kept slipping. It was a Snap-On too.
I rigged an old 1/2 inch drive socket to hook a box end wrench to my torque wrench. Had to grind it so the open end would fit on the old socket. It adds lenght to the torque wrench so you will have to set the torque wrench to less then the 70 to 75 lbs. the specs call for.
I found this link in the arcives for head bolt torque patteren. It was posted by Mike E. It was for a TO-30 but I would think they are the same.

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greaseman

06-09-2001 12:57:19




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 Re: Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Jim-PA, 06-09-2001 04:29:52  
Thankyou for getting back to me, I think I will be asking alot of stupid questions in the following weeks, so please; put up with me. Greaseman



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Chuck (CA)

06-08-2001 23:27:56




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 Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Greaseman, 06-08-2001 15:29:23  
Tell ya what I did, whether it's right or wrong. I put a box end wrench on the nuts and used a pipe for leverage and cranked her down. I would think a torque wrench with a crow's foot would be better. Someone earlier posted about this issue and suggested a fish scale. I'm not sure how to rig that up.
John is absolutely right about tightening from the center out.

Good Luck,
Chuck



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ErnieD

06-10-2001 05:14:25




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 Re: Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Chuck (CA), 06-08-2001 23:27:56  
You can use a regular box end wrench. Measure the length of the wrench, if the wrench length is one foot, then take the fish scale and pull 75 pounds worth. If the wrench is 2 feet (bolt to where you hook the scale) then pull 37.5 pounds.

I will confess to using the educated arm method. I torqued the bolts I could conventially and then "tried" one or two with a box end wrench. Then snugged the blind nuts to the same effort. Not very measurable, but quick.

Very important to retorque after running the engine first time.

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John

06-08-2001 18:39:21




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 Re: Torqueing the head nuts in reply to Greaseman, 06-08-2001 15:29:23  
Man I have no idea on that. Will have go out and take a look at mine on that. To start with I would think you should torque from the center out.



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