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Need detail on splitting TO-20

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David Waymann

06-07-2001 21:49:52

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Hi all: I hope to split my TO-20 shortly to replace the transmission input shaft seal. While I am in there I plan to replace the pilot bearing and the release bearing and examine the clutch disk, housing and pressure plate--I will replace if necessary. There are a couple of gaskets on the front side of the transmission that I will look at as well, and replace if needed. Can I replace the rear engine seal from the back side of the engine? It also seems to me that there may be two seals--a rope seal (original) and a superseeded circular seal with internal spring (modern). Anyone have experience with this?

I have read my IT manual and searched the discussion forums for details about splitting my tractor, but some questions arise: How high should I block the rear half of the tractor (just support, raise slightly, etc.)? When I lift the front half under the engine can I do it with the pan on, or should the pan be removed--where do I place the jack? When I support the front can I do it with a floor jack from underneath between the front wheels? How do I prevent the front from pivoting on its front axle pivot, or does the fact that the back of the engine is supported on the floor jack keep it from pivoting?

I would appreciate as much detail as your experience will provide. Thank you in advance, David (in Michigan)

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Randy B

06-09-2001 04:16:18

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Re: Need detail on splitting TO-20 in reply to David Waymann, 06-07-2001 21:49:52

I split my TO-30 one saturday morning to work on the clutch and had it back together by two that afternoon. I used a chain hoist on the engine, raising it to just taking the slack out of the front suspension, and a floor jack (3-ton) under the transmission. After unbolting it, I pulled on the jack handle and it slid apart. Definitely use an alignment tool for the clutch, or you'll be fighting it for hours.

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Chris C.

06-08-2001 09:17:24

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Re: Need detail on splitting TO-20 in reply to David Waymann, 06-07-2001 21:49:52

I will give you what little advice I can from my exp. with splitting a MF 35. It is a big job, but not all that complex. You should block up the front end by wedging tapered blocks between the front support and the front axle center section, you don't want the front half of your tractor flopping around. I had good luck using two jacks,leaving the tractor on all 4 wheels, adjusting the jacks for zero drop and it slid right apart. This also is handy during reassembly as it allows you to adjust alignment from either end so your not trying to match one fixed height to one adjustable height. By keeping the mating faces of the bell housing and the engine adapter parallel, you know you are aligned vertically. Use a clutch alignment tool, there is no substitute. I had one jack on a thin rubber pad on the bell housing access plate and the other on the oil pan, HOWEVER, my tractor has a pPerkins diesel which hasa very heavy oil pan. I agree with the other post, change every seal, bearing, gasket you can while you are in there!

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Frank Biscardi

06-08-2001 07:01:36

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Re: Need detail on splitting TO-20 in reply to David Waymann, 06-07-2001 21:49:52

David,

I had mine split because it was leaking badly. I hired it out. It was a big job. I would encourage you to change every seal/ gasket you can as splitting the tractor is such a big project.Your clutch is probably saturated with oil and aught to be replaced.

Frank

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