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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TO - 30 RUNNING BETTER,BUT.......

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guyeli

05-18-2008 05:54:01




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UPDATE:Thanks to Phil and George.I replaced both coil and condenser yesterday and it alleviated my problems w/the sudden dying of the engine after 5 minutes or so.However a new problem (alas!)has occurred with the engine running rough at certain higher rpms and smoothly at lower rpms.I found that I could eliminate the rough running by pulling out the choke rod slightly and taping the choke rod out so it would stay in position to allow smooth running.I believe I may need some carb adjustments,but am not sure where to begin .Thanks.

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Jerry/MT

05-18-2008 21:04:01




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 Re: TO - 30 RUNNING BETTER,BUT....... in reply to guyeli, 05-18-2008 05:54:01  
Check your spark and make sure that it is FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE! Check the timing and the advance to make sure they are correct. What condition are you plug wires in? Are they copper core? they should be

If you have that then adjust the main jet(the big screw on the top of the fuel bowl. Start with the screw turned 1-1/8 turns out from full in (Don"t reef the screw down just tighten it til it stops). Start the tractor and bring it to operating temperature. Make sure that the choke is off when making these adjustments. Accelerate the engine from low idle to max speed. It should accelerate smoothly without hestation. If it doesn"t, open the screw 1/8 turn and repeat the process. When it accelerates smoothly from low idle to max speed, you"ve got it. If you take it out to plow in heavy soils and it has some roughness at high speed, high load try some more enrichment.

You should never go below 1 full turn out on the power jet adjustment because the engine is dependent on charge cooling from an enriched mixture to keep the exhaust gas temperatures low enough to preclude burning the exhaust valves.

If these things don"t work, then I"d start looking for an air leak that"s occuring downstream of the carb metering system, a bad gasket at the carb to intake manifold interface or a leak in the manifold itself, an air leak in the throttle shaft area of the carb, or the manifold to cylinder head gasket.

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gshadel

05-18-2008 10:51:43




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 Re: TO - 30 RUNNING BETTER,BUT....... in reply to guyeli, 05-18-2008 05:54:01  
it is difficult to diagnose problems without seeing and hearing how the tractor is running... John may be right on the money about the fuel flow, but that sure sounds like a typical weak spark problem to me. The choke helps the engine run better because a richer mixture ignites easier than a lean mixture. I suggest you pull a plug wire and check the spark. It should be a fat blueish white spark. A thin orange spark is no good and will cause your stated problem also. If you have an original 6V system, make sure the wiring connections are all clean and shiny to the coil and distributor and that your point gap is right.

George

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John (UK)

05-18-2008 07:58:11




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 Re: TO - 30 RUNNING BETTER,BUT....... in reply to guyeli, 05-18-2008 05:54:01  
Obviously from how you describe it, the problem is fuel related. Before you do anything else check the fuel flow at the Carb. Remove the drain plug and allow it to run into a jug for 10 mins or so to see if it slows down or stops, if it runs OK then it should really pour out, if it doesn't, remove the feed pipe at the elbow into the Carb and check the flow there, unscrew the elbow from the Carb and check the small filter is clear in the elbow. if it runs from the pipe OK then you can re-assemble it all. If it doesn't run with a full flow then go to the tap at the tank and check that for flow, there is a filter in the top of the bowl and one in the tank (or should be) and this maybe restricted, make sure that the fuel flows quickly through the tap. When you know everything is OK with the fuel flow (and only then) run the engine until it reaches working temperature, not below or it will not be right. rev the engine to maximum and screw the main jet in slowly until you hear the exhaust note start to change, then unscrew it until the engine runs even and then give it 1/8 turn open after that. Now got to the slow running jet, put the engine on idle and screw it in SLOWLY until the engine note changes in the exhaust, when it does, unscrew it slowly until it runs evenly. You can repeat both of these adjustments as many times as you need until it is correct. Now if you quickly open the throttle it should speed up without spluttering or black smoke, if it splutters it is weak so you should open the main jet another 1/8 turn, if blows black smoke, close the main jet slightly. Make sure that the air cleaner is clean and clear or it will choke the air flow and you wont be able to set the Carb properly. The oil in the air cleaner needs to be changed every working day or if it is dusty, twice in a working day. The main jet on the Schebler Carb goes downwards at an angle and it has knurled knob on the end of it, to grip. The slow running jet is sloping down again, but has a screwdriver slot on the end, both of these are on the side of the Carb towards the Generator...John

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