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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH

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GUYELI

05-04-2008 17:07:09




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Visited w/the old girl yesterday,she cranked right up,idled beautifully,warmed her up,then took a spin around the farm.Five minutes later she just died...no sputter,no missing,no hesitation,just died.3 minutes she cranked right up and ran smoothly,took back to the barn.Checked gas,unplugged fuel line at carb,no clogs or debris in carb screen.gas looks fine.checked points,looked fine.checked gap at points,reset at.022.cranked up first turn.Took out for another ride 5 minutes later she died again.Let her sit 5 minutes cranked right up.Idled well.5 minutes later died again,no sputter,no miss.All wires are brand new,just put in 12 volt conversion last month and new ignition switch 2 weeks ago.I'm wondering if my distributor shaft is so worn that it has some play and throws off the gap which in turn kills the engine.If so I'm probably going to have to get a new distributor at $200+ .I'm hoping there might be another solution.I was wondering if I might be better off getting an electronic ignition as there are no points to deal with or maybe I should bite the bullet and fork out the $$$.Anyway I thought I might throw this out there for some guidance from those more knowledgeable than I on some possible options or other possible troubleshooting tips. Thanks

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Jerry/MT

05-04-2008 22:15:08




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to GUYELI, 05-04-2008 17:07:09  
When you changed the electrical system to 12 V did you also change the coil to a "real" 12V coil ( i.e. NAPA IC-14SB ~$15)? If you didn"t, did you put a 1.5 ohm resistor in series with the coil wire from the keyswitch to the coil?
Your syptoms sound like an overheated coil and that"s what would happen if you did not use a "real" 12V coil or did not use the current limiting resistor with the old 6V coil when you changed the electrics to 12V. Were your points burned? You said you had to rest them. That"s another sign of too high primary current.


Did you check the distributor shaft for wear? Turn the engine til the points close, then piush radially (from the side) on the distributor shaft. Look for motion at the ppoints. If the points move, especially if they open, then your shaft is worn. If it"s worn, you can probably get it rebuilt for $100 at an auto electric shop rather than buying a $200 rebuild. the $100 you save will pay for a pPertrnonix or Genesee electronic ignition and you"ll never wory about points again.

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guyeli

05-05-2008 05:58:56




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to Jerry/MT, 05-04-2008 22:15:08  
I installed the 12 volt conversion w/a resistor and continue to utilize the 6-volt coil.I checked the the coil for excessive heat and it seemed normal.Do you think purchasing a 12 volt coil under there circumstances is advisable?



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phil(va)

05-06-2008 04:21:18




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to guyeli, 05-05-2008 05:58:56  
YES.



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Jerry/MT

05-05-2008 10:00:34




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to guyeli, 05-05-2008 05:58:56  
If you have the correct resisitor installed, you should be OK. You need about 3 ohms total resistance and when I checked my old 6V coil it was about 1.6 ohms and the resisitor was about 1.5 ohms and that limits the coil current to ~ 4 amps which is about the max for a coil. When the engine shuts down, do you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK? Have you checked the distributor for wear? What doyour points look like.
The other thing to check is the key switch. When the engine dies on you, clip a jumper wire across the switch and see if it runs with the jumper on it. If it does the key switch is bad. Have you made sure all the connections are tight. i had my TO-30 dies on me this year plowing snow and I found a loose crimp connection in the primary ignition circuit.

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gshadel

05-04-2008 18:08:01




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to GUYELI, 05-04-2008 17:07:09  
What did you do with your coil when you did the 12V conversion last month? Sounds like your coil may be overheating... maybe. You should have a resistor hooked-up to your 6V coil, or did you install a new 12V coil?
Run your engine until it dies again, then pull a plug wire and check your spark. If you have no spark, you likely have a coil or condenser that is shutting down when it gets hot. If your spark is good, then remove the fuel drain plug on the bottom of your carb & run gas into a coffee can. Your fuel should run out fast, fast enough to fill a small coffee can in a minute or two, a fat non-stop, non-gurgling stream. As Jerry says, "like a cow peeing on a flat rock" Anything less than that suggests a clog in the fuel line, or a non-venting lid.
My guess is one of those issues is your problem, I doubt you need to spend big $$$ on a new distributor until you are absolutely sure that in your problem.

George

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guyeli

05-05-2008 06:09:40




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to gshadel, 05-04-2008 18:08:01  
Thanks G Shadel,I did check the flow from the carb as you described and I did get the "Cow peeing on a rock" flow.Checked the gas ..looked clear,nothing in sediment bowl.Had gas tank pulled and soaked in solvent for days,then dried out and resealed by a professional at a radiator shop last July,so I'm doubting any sediment issues.I did replace the gas cap last sumer as well and had extended periods of runing tractor w/no problems so once again I'm thinking the problem is distributor related.Unless of course I have a bad coil.

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gshadel

05-05-2008 12:25:31




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to guyeli, 05-05-2008 06:09:40  
Sounds like fuel is not your problem then. Check your spark next time your engine dies. Sounds like your problem is ignition related. Between the ideas that Jerry & I have given you, my guess is you will be able to figure it out pretty quickly with a little more investigation. If your distributor bushing were worn so badly that your engine stalled, my guess is it would run poorly from the start, not run fine for 5 minutes, then stall. Sounds like a component heating up and cutting out. Condensers have been know to do that, so have key switches, and maybe that new resistor. A quick check with a multimeter would help I.D. the problem if you find you have no spark when the engine dies.

George

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Chuck (CA)

05-04-2008 17:40:21




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 Re: TO 30 STILL RUNNING ROUGH in reply to GUYELI, 05-04-2008 17:07:09  
What you"re describing could be a bad coil. Runs good til it warms up, then dies. Let "er cool down, and she runs fine... til she warms up again.. Even a new coil can be faulty. Borrow the one from your car and see if that helps.

HTH
Chuck



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