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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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to30 hydraulic control

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vinnywv

04-17-2008 16:52:14




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started my restoration finally. new manifold and gaskets for manifold. changed engine oil, changed and cleaned out hydraulic fluid, only had 1.5 gallons in it to start with. uuugh! after refill though i noticed that the hydraulics don't work properly. it took awhile for the pump to work ie a few seconds. that seemed normal to me on a hydro change. my problem is that the hydraulic finger tip controller has alot of play in it. the books state that i shold have 2.5 inches of travel before they start bleeding off from full lift. i have half of the quadrant of free play and then i have to push it down, it wants to stay there. if i do push it down, the fingertip control, it seems to work ok but with no weight on the lift arms it needs assistance to bleed off. if i run with the pump engaged, pto turning, and do not hold down the finger tip control lever, then the lift arms want to raise up on there own and when in the full raise position which happens to be only half way on the quadrant, they go too far and the check chains get bound up very tight. i put on a new friction disc which is where i found the next little problem. the hydraulic control shaft has a bit over 1/4 inch of travel in it. travel from inside the casing pulling out towards the rear tire. it will move in and out too far and the friction disc is not touching the metal at all. please help me. i wont be able to work on it again until next week since i am on midnights till monday but next week i am off and will be able to tear into it some more. ps i did not take off the lift cover yet to see whats in there or not in there. i thought i would get some advice first. thanks vinny in west virginia.

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John (UK)

04-18-2008 09:52:17




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to vinnywv, 04-17-2008 16:52:14  
If the check chains go tight when the lower link arms are raised then your check chains are too short or you may have the brackets on upside down, the attachment points for the chains on these brackets should be towards the top, above the level of the PTO shaft. The chains should have six links plus a shackle at each end to be long enough. The in and out movement on the lever shaft does not matter but it does sound like Jerry says, in that you have not got the key into the keyway in the hub at the bottom of the Control Lever. Take it off again and make sure that both the key and the keyway are clear and clean and not damaged in any way and then they will slide together with a little care. The nut at the bottom that adjusts the friction should be tighted until it is comfortable to move the lever and then insert a new cotter pin to lock it in place (or use a nyloc nut). The spring under the nut should be good and not rusted or coilbound when tightened, if it is then replace the spring. Make sure that the hub at the bottom of the lever will slide onto the shaft easily and that it isn't damaged.
If the lever does not allow the linkage to start dropping at 2-1/2" down the quadrant then it needs adjusting on the quadrant where it fixes to the Top Hydraulic Cover BUT you MUST check the Draft Spring behind the seat first, with an implement mounted on the linkage (like a plow in weight) and in the raised position, you should JUST be able to turn the Draft Spring without any effort (play should be .020") it is no use trying to set the lever if the Spring is wrong, you have to set the Draft Spring first then the Control Lever. Don't make the mistake of going for a setting that is "near enough" as it doesn't last very long even if you do get it to work. You may need to remove theTop Cover to adjust the Draft Spring as it maybe siezed up by now and you will have to hold the part inside to prevent it getting twisted and damaged. DON'T attempt to remove the Top Cover unless you know what is inside as you may damage the Control Valve. If you need the information on what to do to remove the Top Cover and to reset the Draft Spring amd Control Lever, then email me and I will send it to you. Better be safe than sorry...John

PS When you do get a hydraulic problem, NEVER tear the Hydraulics down until you know what the fault is, if you do you may never find it. A leak won't leak unless there is pressure and if it is in bits on the workbench you can't get pressure to find the leak.

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fergienewbee

04-18-2008 04:03:26




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to vinnywv, 04-17-2008 16:52:14  
I'm watching this post closely, as my TO 30 exhibits some of the same quirks.



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Jerry/MT

04-17-2008 21:13:41




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to vinnywv, 04-17-2008 16:52:14  
Vinny when you put the fricton disk in, there was a nut that you were supposed to tighten to adjust the tension on the friction disk.The threaded surface that the spring and castellated nut go on is the control shaft lever and there is a key that fixes the friction plate to the control shaft. (The friction disc goes between the friction plate and and a plate that is attached to the quadrant. I think you didn"t get the friction plate keyway aligned with the key and maybe you can"t tighten down the friction plate & friction disc against the the plate on the quadrant. If you don"t have that friction present, then you"ll have to hold the control lever down to make the lift drop and when you let go, the lever will go to the lift position and the lift arms will come all the way up. When my friction disc wore out, that"s what happened with me. You said that "...the check chains get bound up very tight..." That should not happen. Your check chains maybe too short. The other possibility is that your control linkage is not adjsuted correctly or is damaged. When the piston hits the end of it"s stroke in raising the lift arms, it pushes against the control fork and moves the control valve to the neutral position to stop the motion of the lift. You"ll need to get the Shop Manual or hope that John(UK) responds to this post. He can send you the info about adjusting the control linkage. Whatever you do, don"t take the lift cover off until you know that you have to.

hope this helps.

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vinnywv

04-17-2008 21:52:23




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to Jerry/MT, 04-17-2008 21:13:41  
it does in so far as not taking off the cover because next week i was diving in but now i will gladly wait to see what else is said here. i did line up the key with the key way on the friction plate. castellated nut tightened up as far as i could make it so i assumed it was out of threads. i did not take it back off to see if it was though i got a little confused when i noticed the spacing of the friction plate and the quadrant so i just stopped before tearing anything up and got ready for work tonight. i hope the friction plate or the quadrant adjustment is all it is but i will just wait to see later. thank you jerry.

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John (UK)

04-18-2008 09:55:54




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to vinnywv, 04-17-2008 21:52:23  
Reading this post you don't mention the spring under the nut and washer at the bottom of the lever. If there is no spring then you will get the problem that you have. It could have rusted away or you may have forgotten to refit it, either way it does need the spring to keep a constant load on the lever and the friction disc. John



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vinnywv

04-18-2008 17:05:50




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 Re: to30 hydraulic control in reply to John (UK), 04-18-2008 09:55:54  
thanks for all the information from everyone you guys are very generous and helpful. i do not even have a spring on the friction plate area ie under the castle nut. so i will start by getting one. and go from there, again it won't be until next week that i am able to mess with it again so until then i will wait patiently. thanks again and i will keep everyone posted on the progress. have a great day all, vinny

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