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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TO30 Popping and Loss of Power

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RKGodshall

04-17-2008 12:44:20




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OK, I know this has been covered somewhere (probably many times) in this forum, but after searching for quite a bit, I decided to post my specific issue and go from there.....

Fergie been running great right up until last week when I was cleaning ditches with the backblade. After shutting down for a drink, I got quite a good "pop" and discharge out of the intake vent on the dash. Now, every time I run it, and it needs a bit of power, (even just opening up the throttle quickly), it makes a deep popping noise with some compression coming of the air intake vent.

I had the 2 bottom plow on, and went to turn over some sod and after about 3 feet, old Fergie was stopped and almost at a stall (last year this wouldn"t have even affected her).

I"m thinking valves, whether a broken spring or a worn valve..... ... but before I buy the kit and begin the process, I want the opinions from the experts. You guys have helped me out and in the past and if anyone knows, it"s one or most or all of you.

Thanks

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RKGodshall

04-29-2008 10:57:56




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to RKGodshall, 04-17-2008 12:44:20  
OK, finally got around to tearing tractor apart. Neighbor stopped over (former heavy equipment mechanic), said without a doubt bad valve.

Removed gas tank, valve cover..... tada..... broken valve spring. Ordering parts now, should be back plowing very shortly.

Thanks everyone for their input.



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gshadel

04-18-2008 11:28:03




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to RKGodshall, 04-17-2008 12:44:20  
I agree with Jerry, I would bet money on an ignition problem, poor spark. A good running tractor that suddenly stops running good is usually that... and coughing, backfiring, loosing power under load are all tell tale signs of ignition problem. Look for that blue spark, a yellow/orange spark is a weak spark and WILL cause poor running. If the ignition is good, check the carb power mix screw as Jerry describes. By all means check your timing, easy to do, easy to adjust.

A valve problem will likely show-up with a compression check, i.e. much lower compression in one cylinder that does not appreciably improve with a tsp of oil in the cylinder. I wouldn't tear into your engine just yet.

George

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phil(WA)

04-17-2008 20:28:49




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to RKGodshall, 04-17-2008 12:44:20  
Jerry/MT has covered a lot of possibilties and one may be the culprit, but I have witnessed just the characteristics you describe and after replacing the condenser all was well. Might try that first before more complex investigations. You might get lucky.

Phil(WA)*



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Straytwice

04-17-2008 15:24:06




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to RKGodshall, 04-17-2008 12:44:20  
Ok you cursed me as well, My Fergie started the same thing today.. Losing power, poping some backfired once.. The PO stated a slight adjustment to the screw knob on the very front of the Carb should even that out when it occurs.. No change but I have no clue which knob that is air fuel or idle adjust or what ( yes I just won a Manual so I will know soon). I will check the spark and advance in the morning, The Question I have is you say set the mixture for fuel and air, so what is the starting mixture point ( on a Chevy small block its 2 and 1/2 turns ) Also which is the fuel air mixture, The screw on the side facing away from the engine ( it has a spring like on the chevy adjusters for air fuel)or the knob at the front of the Carb.

Thanks in advance for any answers Sorry for the Hi Jack of the tread :-)

Tim O

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Jerry/MT

04-17-2008 20:49:30




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to Straytwice, 04-17-2008 15:24:06  
The reference point for adjusting the mixture for high power is the power adjusting screw on top of the fuel bowl screwed all the way in (but not reefed down). You then unscrew 1-1/8 turns. Start the engine and let it warm up. When the engine is at opperating temperature, accelerate from idle to max rpm. The engine should accelerate smoothly without coughing. Observe the exhaust and if you see a lot of black smoke, lean it back an 1/8 of a turn.In no case should you go below one turn out because these Continentals rely on charge cooling from fuel evaporation to hold down the exhaust gas temperature and prevent the exhaust valves from burning. If it stumbles and coughs on acceleration and there is no black smoke, turn the power adjusting screw another 1/8 turn open and repeat. Do this till you get a smooth acceleration.If you are later doing heavy field work you can also adjust the power jet richer.

The idle mixture control is located on the side of the carb verticle tube. It adjusts the idle airflow and so screwing it in enriches the mixture(reduces the idle air). Again, start with the screw all the way in and the turn it out about 3/4 turn. The idle speed should be ~400-500 rpm. Using a tach, try to adjust the idle speed to 400 and enrich the mixture if you cannot obtain 400-500 rpm. Again the engine must be at operating temp.

Hope this helps you.

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Straytwice

04-18-2008 12:40:44




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to Jerry/MT, 04-17-2008 20:49:30  
Yes Sir thats exactly what I was looking for. With no reference where to start I had no clue if I was close heloping or hurting if I decided to just move the screw.. Have not checked the spark color yet been otherwise occupied this morning ..

Thanks alot

Tim O



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Jerry/MT

04-17-2008 13:37:05




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 Re: TO30 Popping and Loss of Power in reply to RKGodshall, 04-17-2008 12:44:20  
I always recommend checking out the ignition system as the first place to start. Make sure that you have the requisite FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK from the wire that goes into the center of the distibutor cap when you hold it near a good ground and try to start it. Make sure that the timing and the firing order(1-3-4-2) are correct and the centrifugal advance is working properly. These checks take all of 5-10 minutes once you have rounded up the timing light. If you don"t have a good spark you"ll need to find out why and there is a lot of stuff in the archives to tell you what to look for. As far as the firing order, the neighbor hood kids coud have switched the wires and you can tell in a glance if that"s been done. If the timing is radically changed I"d look a little deeper and find out why that happened. Sometimes the cam thrust plate gets overly worn and the cam can move forward and push the distributor shaft upward and damge the distributor. Most TO-30 owners don"t know that the distributor has an oil reservoir to lube the bushing and that there is a felt wick that requires oiling in the distributor shaft to oil the advance mechanism and it"s probably one of the most neglected maintenance items on the tractor.Could be your advance is stuck.

If everything checks out in the ignition system, look at the fuel supply and see if that"s adequate. Make sure the mixture is properly set. Overly lean mixtures are hard to light(ignition delay) which effectively throws off the timing. A dirty main jet or an air leak around the carb metering system ( worn air seals on the htrottle shaft, leaking gasket at connect flance between carb and intake manifold, cracked intake maifold, leaking manifold gasket, etc) can cause this problem. Reset the main jet and try to run again and note the result. If there is no change go an 1/8 turn more open and see what happens.

If fuel and mixture check out, check out the compression and see what you learn from that.

Do all these checks systematically and write down the results so you can analyze them later.

My TO-30 started running like a three legged dog all at once and it was misfiring, had no power, etc (I was sure it was the fuel system until I checked the spark!)and I found that my distributor shaft and bushing were worn so bad that with the points closed, I could push on the shaft from the side and open the points to 0.030"! Now it was a fifty year old distributor so all that wear didn"t happen overnight but it got bad enough that morning so that the tractor wouldn"t run well at all Yet it ran fine the previous time I used it.

I cna"t give the reason for the problem you are having but if you systematically check the major subsystemsout, I"m sure you"ll find your problem and that will be the most ecconomical way to find it. What ever you do, don"t start changing out parts. Syatematically look for the problem then fix/replace the part(s) that are the cause.

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