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scraping backwards

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mike-hr

04-10-2008 14:19:30

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Hello, I have a 1955 TO-35 that was my grandfathers. I'm restoring it bit by bit as time allows. My question is about using the rear scraper blade backwards, like a bulldozer, to muck snow and ice from the driveway. It seems to work better with more control, and doesn't generate washboards as much as driving forward does. Someone told me that this is hard on the tractor. I would be sick if I broke it, does anyone have thoughts about this? Thanks

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Boss Hog

04-14-2008 07:25:33

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

I"ve broken blades and lift arms a couple of times when pushnig thnigs with a blade turned around backwards.

But it was ALWAYS when I was over-doing things - Like getting a run at something and hiting it too hard. It would be pretty tough to break something just pushing snow...

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mark from the fort

04-12-2008 05:43:25

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

I had thought of a couple of other "tips" for ya.
When moving snow, do it with your blade at an angle so that it is sliding off of the blade--this way you don't get a HUGE load of snow and eventually stop the movement of the tractor. -like you see snow trucks "shooting" the snow at an angle towards the ditch.
BUT, remember to use your "leveling" handle that should be part of your, most likely right side, lift arm. With every angle you set the blade, it will NO longer be parallel with the ground. -which I shoot. I usually set my angle in the barn and adjust the lift arm so the blade rises and touches the cement floor parallel.
I very seldomly have to touch the blade setting after this. Usually 1 pass up a drive way (rolling the snow to outside of driveway) THEN turn the tractor around and go the other way back down the drive way and I have cleared snow to both sides. **the reason I do not mess with setting is its sort of a pain to stop tractor, get off, move blade setting, get on,and readjust back to parallel with ground. Over and OVer.
A second thing I want to mention is to invest in "sway bars" for your blade. Just incase you are not familiar, these are thin flat bars that will hood to the a) same pin as lift arms on blade and b) other end to a bracket directly under fender mounts. These keep the blade directly behind the tractor with NO side to side movement of the blade. Very important as some attachments have swung too far to one side and have gotten caught up in rear tire tread and pull up tire and ruined fenders, cut tires, bent lift arms. Very inexpensive and very worth the piece of mind as any implement with stabilizer/sway bars is kept under much better control.
Lastly, (sorry for the long post)-if your blade has a spring loaded plunger pin that locks the blade at different angles, you can attach a lenght of rope to the handle and from the tractor seat, you can pull rope-back blade against a tree or similar, and change the blade angle without getting off tractor.-AGAIN, you will most likely have to re-set the blade level again with leveling crank.
If you haven't fallen asleep by know, I hope these tips make sense. Mark

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mike-hr

04-11-2008 09:38:09

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

Thank you for the replies. That's just what I was looking for. Love the tip about switching the tires, too. Mike

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Jeff-oh

04-11-2008 05:48:05

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

That is how I push my snow. Push out stumps, etc.

There are only four things you could really damage doing it this way.

1) Bend the frame of the blade (I have done this)
2) Bend the Lower lift arms.
3) bend/ loosen the lower lift arm attach points.
4) most severe- crack the transmission case at the lower lift arm attach points.

But don't worry about #4 as the arms will likely bend way before the case would fail.

In all these cases as Mark says... You have to be pushing against a hard object with alot of force or impact a hard object.

In my case I was pushing out stumps. I was not centered on the blade and the blades frame went askew. After a few choice words, about how my superior intelect didn't see that comming... i.e "Jeff, you dumb S#!^" I lifted the bent blade. Droped it down on the other side of the stump and pulled forward... straightened her right out.

These are tough tractors. Thats why they've lasted 55+ years and are still being used on a daily basis.

So do not worry

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Don Hooks*

04-10-2008 15:49:23

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

I have NO experience with scraping ice and snow but, in dry clay, the performance of the blade is determined by its weight and the angle of the cutting edge with reference to the ground. For pulling forward you need to try making the upper link longer to get a more acute angle with the ground. If that doesn't work look at the overall structure of the blade to see if it may have been bent somewhere between the hitch and the blade carrier. If it has that would explain why it works in reverse since that would give you an exaggerated angle with the ground. As for strain on the tractor, I would only say that the tires probably don't grip as well in reverse and there may be more intermittant wheel slip.

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mark from the fort

04-10-2008 15:43:08

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mike-hr, 04-10-2008 14:19:30

I dont know why it would be hard on the tractor --unless-- you are going along fairly fast and she bites into an object sticking up. I actually do my snow plowing that way EXCEPT, I have the blade facing forward and push my snow with the "back" side of the blade.
I have found that using the front of the blade would dig in TOO much and get into peoples gravel. With the back of the blade, I do just as well unless it is old, packed snow/ice and then she will just ride up on top.
I also like push backwards as it a: clears the snow BEFORE the rear tires drives over it.
and b: when pulling heavy snow forward, the snow can accumulate between the blade and rear tires and raise the dang tires up into the snow the tractor buried.
One tip, if you are going to do the "Backward Thing" in the winter. Take the time to swap your rear tire side to side so your treads are pointing backward (the way they are supposed to for working) Makes a big difference in not slipping. I was surprised to see how easily my tires (even loaded) would start spinning when working in reverse.
Mark

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Jeff-oh

04-11-2008 05:51:33

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Re: scraping backwards in reply to mark from the fort, 04-10-2008 15:43:08

Mark,

I have the problem of digging into my gravel also. What I did was shorten the top link to increase the cutting angle as close to 90 deg. as possible. Works okay...

I'll have to try your way.

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