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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101

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Jeff-oh

03-12-2008 07:12:12




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I have a remote weekend get away cabin. It does not have line electric to it. I have a gasoline generator and use it spariticly, as I do not like the noise it makes.

For lighting I have been using Coleman Gas Lanterns. I have plans on wiring the cabin with electric lights and running them off the generator.

Well I was shopping for light bulbs for the house the other day and started really looking at the compact florssent bulbs. I picked a couple up and I am pleased with their performance. At only 24 watts for a 100w incandecent performane.... it got me rethinking my cabin issue.

First I thought about a solar panel system... Then again I am not out there for more than a few days at a time. Thus I thought about just using a battery and the 400W inverter I already have.

I could charge the battery at home and haul it out like I do drinking water.

Here is my question... I've seen batteries rated in amp hours. i.e. 90 amp hours. Is this a direct measurement of the energy stored?

i.e. will that battery allow me to draw 90 amps for 1 hour. 45 amps for 2 hours etc. ? Thus would 100watts @110V ac of load run for roughly 90 hours - ignoring the inverter draw.

Secondly for those that know solar systems how are the batteries made for solar electric systems different from marine/sport deep cycle battries? The ones I've seen for Solar electric run $200+ while I can get a marine Deep Cycle for $70.00

Thanks for you input.
Jeff

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Jim in OH

03-13-2008 13:30:26




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
"Jerry/MT"](quoted from post at 11:48:01 03/13/08) ..The battery cannot be drawn down to less than 60% of it"s capascity for long life..... . The usable time .....=4.34 hrs. "

since you assumed only 40% of capacity available.. and I assumed full capacity for a deep cycle.. multiply the 10.8 hours by 40%

10.8*0.4=4.32 same answer.. (except yours has round off.. :D )

and it is energy that is conserved... not power, except at steady conditions, (which coincidently this is...)

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Don Hooks*

03-12-2008 19:07:36




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
The LED route will get the most bang for the buck - whatever method you use for generating electricity. If you have a small stream nearby that you can tap for 10 or 12 feet of head you can use a small waterwheel driving an alternator to charge up your batteries (a couple of deep cycles can probably supply what you need) while you are away. A wind powered alternator can save up watts whenever the velocity is high enough whether you are there or not. As discussed below, the payback for better (more expensive) batteries is in being able to count on them to be ready whenever you show up. The daily input needn't be very large if you can save up 4 or 5 days for every two you are there.
There is a whole industry based on folks going "off the grid".

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Jeff-oh

03-13-2008 05:40:22




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Don Hooks*, 03-12-2008 19:07:36  
Actually there is an intermittent creek and the drop to the bottom of the ravine I measured at 75 feet of head. I have dreamed of hyro-electric generation since I was in High school... Just around here there is not enough, consistant, streams with any kind of drop.

Wind is the same just not consistant.

Though we are not in the best area for PV it will be good for my needs.



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Jeff-oh

03-13-2008 05:11:01




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Don Hooks*, 03-12-2008 19:07:36  
PV systems is how all this started. I did a little research and though do I even need the PV side.

I am out there less than 1 weekend a month and I stay out there for 3 to 4 days in late fall for hunting season.

Thus, I only need 1 to 2 nights worh of lights... So I could haul a fully charged battery out there... Like I do water. use it and then do the recharging back at my house using grid power.

My concern with PV is cooking a battery that is hooked up all the time... yes I know there are regulators... but panels and expence at this time may not be necessary. For only the hassle of hauling a battery.

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John (Ont)

03-12-2008 17:54:01




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
Jeff:
I have used two 72 watt solar panels (producing 6 amp in full sun ) and deep cycle marine batteries for about 20 years to provide light in my chicken coop. I have used incadescent bulbs, flourescent bulbs, compact flourescent bulbs and am going to LED's. The system worked well with everything except the flourescent as they did not like the cold. Deep cycle batteries would give me three to five years of good use if you take care of them. Be sure to have a solar voltage regulator on the solar panels or you will cook the battery. I would seriously consider the 12 volt LED light as the current drain is so low. Would love to use pv batteries but $600+ for a 300 ah 12 volt battery that will last 10-15 years is too much.

John(Ont)

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Jeff-oh

03-13-2008 05:42:32




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to John (Ont), 03-12-2008 17:54:01  
Cold operation and cycling will be a concern. I have to take a look at the 12V LED's.

Jeff



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Toora Stephen

03-12-2008 17:16:01




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
My "farmlet" has no mains power connected. We have a couple of solar panels (approx 0.5 x 1.5 metres total) which receive several hours of sunlight per day. They charge 3 batteries. The house is in a valley with a lot of trees about, so does not receive full sunlight all day.

We run low-power lights. Although we rarely have more than 2 of them on at a time, the system would easily run several of them all night. We also have a small stereo system, a bread maker and a couple of other small appliances.

The only time we have flattened the batteries was when I ran the fridge (it can use either electricity or gas) all night.

The main problem is refrigeration, actually. I need to take ice with me each time I go there to make sure I have cold beer. :-)

I can get more specs (solar panel power, battery types, appliance ratings) if anyone is interested... but I would highly recommend a solar panel and a few batteries. We never have to do any maintenance or pay any power bills at all. Of course it does require living frugally, energy-wise!

A wind-powered generator would also be a good idea, although we get enough sun even in Winter that we don't need it.

- TS

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gshadel

03-12-2008 15:13:37




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
Jeff, I've had this urge to build myself a home-made wind generator...I appear to be in the windier half of the state, live on a hill, & figure I might be able to take advantage for some lights in the barn or whatever. Looks like a fun project. I've been web surfing DIY wind genertors and read-up a good bit on off grid battery use, like you are asking. You can do some web surfing on alternative power and off-grid power and get tons of info on battery life, battery types, etc. There's a bunch of guys out in Colorado that have a several good sites, lots of fun reading, all you could want to learn on off grid power options, & they have lots of good battery info, the exact questions you are asking. Jerry hit on the discharge point pretty good... not suppose to drain the battery below 60% or it really shortens the life of the battery.

I know what you mean about noisy generators, I have a back-up generator, it just screams when it's running. The idea I liked.. still do, was to build a 12V generator using an old hit-miss engine and a 12V alternator. Lot easier to listen to, and all you need to take to your cabin is a gas can. Plans on the net.

George

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Jim in OH

03-12-2008 14:09:49




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
[quote="Jeff-oh"](...Will a _____ ___ size battery last up to 8 days with a 100 watt 110 ac load with a 400 watt inverted for 6 hr/ day use (50 hours). ...quote]

100 watts for 8 days and 6 hr per day is 4800 watt-hours (same as volt-amp-hours), so at 12 volts, this would require a 400 amp-hour battery assuming you could completely discharge it... and assuming 100% efficiency of the inverter.. (probably more like 90%).. size of the inverter is not too important as long as it is comfortably bigger than your load... I might suggest some 12 volt LEDs.. you can get pretty bright and some very low loads.. and eliminate the inverter..

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Jerry/MT

03-12-2008 12:03:41




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
As I undeerstand it, a 90 amp-hr battery will be completely drained if you used 90 amp-hrs out of it and would be useless after a realtively few total discharges. It would not take a charge. So to answer your question, yes, the amp-hr rating is the total current hrs stored.

However, the proper way to use them is to not deplete them to no less than 60% of their rated capacity and recharge them. So you would only be able to have 36 amp-hrs ((1-0.60) x 90 amp-hrs)of useable draw from a 90 amp-hr battery. You"ll need to audit your energy needs and then buy the correct capacity battery(s) using the above reasoning to fit your needs.

To run a 100 watt load off a 12 volt battery would require 8.3 amps of battery current assuming that the inverter is 100 % efficient.
this would provide an inverter output of 0.91 amps at 110V. so the 90 amp-hr battery would provide 36/8.3= 4.33 hrs of operation before it would need recharging.

I believe the batteries used in solar electric applications are designed for ultra long life (20 years) as opposed to marine deep cycle batteries which are probably designed for a 2-3 year life.

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Jeff-oh

03-13-2008 05:04:24




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-12-2008 12:03:41  
It's been too long since I've done circuits, and I do not have my EE books any more.

What I do not understand in you calcs. is the order of operations. The load is not at 12 volts. it's at 110.

Thus, whould it not be...

100W of lights at 110V = .91 amp draw from the inverter. And assuming the inverter is 100% eff. this .91 amp would flow directly to the battery giving 36/.91 = 39.5 hours?

But this lenght of time does not make since to me either...

Or am I understanding this all wrong. Shoud I think of the battery instead of a 90 amp hour more in terms of 90amp-hr * 12 v = 1080watt- hours. The inverter just changes the "flavor" of the electricy for the individual device?

BTW I do realized draining a battery all the way down is not good for its life... See stuck in Canadian widerness comment: LOL

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Jerry/MT

03-13-2008 11:48:01




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-13-2008 05:04:24  
What"s conserved in my analysis is power, Jeff. Power supplied to the load = power derived from the battery. I will assume 100% efficiency but the real efficiency number comes from the inverter supplier. The result will be that more power is taken from the battery than is supplied to the load ( the load still gets 0.91 amps at 110V but the power supplied by the battery is (1.0/efficency) greater that the load power.)and the duration of operation for a fixed amp-hrs available will be proportionately reduced. So here"s how I arrived at the numbers.

The power supplied to the load is 100 watts @110V which equates to 0.91 amps(100watts/110V=0.91 amps). This power comes from the battery so 100 watts/12V= 8.3 amps. The battery cannot be drawn down to less than 60% of it"s capascity for long life so the amp-hrs available =(1-0.6)90 amp-hrs=36 amp-hrs. The usable time for a continuous draw of 8.3 amps is 36 amp-hrs/8.3amps =4.34 hrs.

Hope this helps.

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Jim in OH

03-13-2008 07:35:16




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-13-2008 05:04:24  

Jeff-oh said: (quoted from post at 05:04:24 03/13/08) It's been too long since I've done circuits, and I do not have my EE books any more.

What I do not understand in you calcs. is the order of operations. The load is not at 12 volts. it's at 110.

Thus, whould it not be...

100W of lights at 110V = .91 amp draw from the inverter. And assuming the inverter is 100% eff. this .91 amp would flow directly to the battery giving 36/.91 = 39.5 hours?

But this lenght of time does not make since to me either...

Or am I understanding this all wrong. Shoud I think of the battery instead of a 90 amp hour more in terms of 90amp-hr * 12 v = 1080watt- hours. The inverter just changes the "flavor" of the electricy for the individual device? LOL


Your last statement is correct... Energy is conserved (not current or voltage)... 90 amp-hr * 12volt = 1080 watt-hours.. that is the total energy available. 100 watt bulb would give you 10.8 hours (if 100% efficient in the inverter conversion).... If you get a 10 watt LED package (which with today's technology could be very bright), you would get over 100 hours.....

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Jeff-oh

03-12-2008 11:09:30




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
I've done some more research this morning and I think I may go ahead and us an extra car batter I have.

My main question is time at low resistance load.

Will a _____ ___ size battery last up to 8 days with a 100 watt 110 ac load with a 400 watt inverted for 6 hr/ day use (50 hours). It looks like yes.

My concern is I have left the dome light on in a car over night or all day and killed a battery. (one time I was 25 KM, away from anyone, in the Canadian Backwoods, but that is another story) And a auto dome light draws ~.5 amp (5 W/12V).

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Jim in OH

03-12-2008 13:56:02




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 11:09:30  
Jeff... I'd at least use a deep cycle.. like a trolling motor battery.. as Jerry said, a regular auto flooded lead-acid battery is damaged by deep cycles... I don't have anything but my own experience to make that quantitative, but my rule of thumb is that for a regualr flooded lead-acid battery, you lose about 1/4 (25%) of the current total capacity every time you completely discharge it... so... it goes.. 100%, 75%, 56%, 42%, 32%, etc.. I figure after 3 or 4 completely dead batteries, I should get a new one... there must be some info on actual performance somewhere.. and I am probably conservative.. it may not be that bad..

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john[mo]

03-12-2008 10:13:35




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
i bought a agm battery for my atv to replace the original factory one. it was almost twice as much as the flooded lead acid battery but after reading the info on agm batteries i thought it might be what i wanted for the maintenece free aspect i expect from it. it has only been in there since last fall so we will see in a few years.



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Jim in OH

03-12-2008 08:12:15




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 Re: OT: Deep Cycle Batteries and EE 101 in reply to Jeff-oh, 03-12-2008 07:12:12  
Hi Jeff... yes, the amp-hour rating is as you would expect but only for relatively slow useage... there are inefficiences with higher amp draw..

As for the cost of batteries, what you are seeing is the differences in cost between flooded, gel and AGM technologies... most "safe" installations would use the AGM technology, but for use, the flooded may work fine.. I have included an edited version of some internet info below

This newer more acvanced type of sealed battery uses "Absorbed Glass Mats", or AGM between the plates. This is a very fine fiber Boron-Silicate glass mat. These type of batteries can take much more abuse. These are also called "starved electrolyte", as the mat is about 95% saturated rather than fully soaked. That also means that they will not leak acid even if broken. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and expand, they are practically immune from freezing damage.

Nearly all AGM batteries are "recombinant" - what that means is that the Oxygen and Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. These use gas phase transfer of oxygen to the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging and prevent the loss of water through electrolysis. The recombining is typically 99+% efficient, so almost no water is lost.

The internal resistance is extremely low, there is almost no heating of the battery even under heavy charge and discharge currents. Most AGM batteries have no charge or discharge current limits.

AGM's have a very low self-discharge - from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging than standard batteries. AGM batteries can be almost fully recharged (95% or better) even after 30 days of being totally discharged.

Evenunder severe overcharge conditions hydrogen emission is far below the 4% max specified for aircraft and enclosed spaces. The plates in AGM's are tightly packed and rigidly mounted, and will withstand shock and vibration better than any standard battery.

Even with all the advantages listed above, there is still a place for the standard flooded deep cycle battery. AGM's will cost about twice as much as good flooded batteries of the same capacity. In many installations, where the batteries are set in an area where you don't have to worry about fumes or leakage, a standard or industrial deep cycle is a better economic choice. AGM batteries main advantages are no maintenance, completely sealed against fumes, Hydrogen, or leakage, non-spilling even if they are broken, and can survive most freezes. Not everyone needs these features.

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