Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
:

TO20 wiring

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
circlej

02-07-2008 04:24:23




Report to Moderator

Ok guys here it is again. I am still trying to get the plug wires on the dist. cap of a TO20 straight. The Ol' tractor is already a little hard to start and 6 volt is no plus. I brought the #1 piston up on compression and looked at where the rotor is pointing. Someone on the forum told me to look for the timing mark #7. I looked through the access hole under the starter for the mark on the flywheel and the only marks are the #20 with notches up to #25. Anyone have any other thoughts. I am about ready to park it in the yard and plant flowers around it.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Mark from the fort

02-07-2008 16:50:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to circlej, 02-07-2008 04:24:23  
You are SSSOOOO close.
Think of the whole flywheel as the face of a clock, with the degree marks similar to each of the 60 second marks on a clock.
Being that a piston is moving up and down sooo rapidly, the spark to ignite the gas mixture must take place a tiny instant before the piston makes it to the top of its cylinder (Top Dead Center).
The reason for "sparking" BEFORE T.D.C. is that the whole combustion process actually take time to take place. If the spark took place exactly at T.D.C., then by the time the explosion takes place --(only milliseconds)--the piston would already be on its way back down and the optimal "push" from the explosion would be waisted. By sparking a little BEFORE the piston makes it to T.D.C. (which is the 7 degree mark you want) the time it takes for the mixture to explode and dispurse(those miliseconds) the piston will have traveled that small distance and be real close to T.D.C. -there fore getting the best use of the explosion and "PUSH" of the piston back down.
What you are doing by stopping the engine at this 7' mark, you are freezing time--this is the place you want the spark to go "BOOMY". So now you have stopped the engine at the right spot--NOW you need to tell the distributer to "open your points directly at this point" NO MATTER which direction your rotor is pointing THIS NEEDS TO BE THE LOCATION FOR YOUR #1 PLUG WIRE.
If you need to, place a small piece of masking tape on the side of the distributer right where the rotor is point too. (that way you will know where it was after you replace dust cap and dist. cap. NOW, put #1 plug wire in that nearest hole.
Starting with #1 wire (already in) going counter clock wise from #1 you will plug in #3 plug wire, the ccw again plug in your #4 plug wire and lastly #2 plug wire. Think about this. the rotor goes CCW around inside the cap and the firing order is 1,3,4,2 makes sense since the the rotor MUST send "juice" in that order.
The last thing I would add is: NOW that you are hooked up correctly, take cap back off. (Leave all plug wire on cap though).
Remove dust cap also.
The big spark that blow up the gas comes from a bunch of fancy electrical "stuff" --what YOU need to know is when the points open (the points are the two tiny round disks on the end of the chrome springy arm) THAT is what starts the big "Bang" so it is critical that these points (disks) are just starting to open when the engine is at that 7 degree mark. (which yours is because we just did that).
You can manually set this "just opening thing" by yourself. First take a look and see if they are very slightly apart--if so, you are close enough to hear her run. IF NOT, dont panic. There is a small bolt on the side of the distributer (close to where it enter side of engine) this keeps the distributer for turning. HOWEVER, if the points are NOT starting to open, the WE want to turn the distributer. Loosen the bolt (or screw) and SLOWLY turn the whole distributer a little either way WHILE you are watching the points--rotate distributer until YOU make the points start to open. GOOD, hold it there and tighten her back up. YOU are Darn close to perfect. A friend with a timing gun is better, but this has worked for Many years.
I say put the plugs back in her and giver a try.
P.S. Where exactly would you put the dirt at on this planter????? ???? Ha Ha Ha Ha
God Bless, mark

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jeff-oh

02-08-2008 05:58:04




Report to Moderator
 Technical writing... in reply to Mark from the fort, 02-07-2008 16:50:38  
Mark if you had written my engineering text books, I'd probally had learnd more.

"this is the place you want the spark to go "BOOMY"."

Love it.
Jeff



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bundee

02-07-2008 19:40:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to Mark from the fort, 02-07-2008 16:50:38  
Moving the distributor is advancing or retarding
the spark,so the first thing to do is get the correct gap on the points beforehand.
You will notice the shaft in the dizzy is square with rounded corners with the fibre part of the points against it.rotate the motor until this fibre is dead on a corner,you can now adjust the points to that recommended.The base of the points are attached to the dist.by a screw, back it off so the plate can be moved by using a screwdriver in the slot which Should be there for that purpose.Keep it firm so there is no movement after the adjustment.Tighten the screw.
Don't force the feeler gauge into the gap,it should fit without force.
You can now use the timing light,if you have to buy one make sure it is xenon and not neon,it's better for daylight use.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jerry/MT

02-07-2008 10:01:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to circlej, 02-07-2008 04:24:23  
If you see the number 20o( degrees) you"ve not rotated the engine far enough. you are 20o BTDC and you need to get to 7oBTDC. Rotate it till you see 5o(degrees) and 10o and 7o will be a small mark. You line it up with the notch. and your distributor is ready to be timed.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bendee

02-07-2008 06:12:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to circlej, 02-07-2008 04:24:23  
My thoughts on what I think is the trouble.
The hole will line up at 6? 10?[ascertain] degrees BTDC.So if you have piston at TDC the mark won"t be seen through the hole, any way insert a 1/4" rod in the hole and it should line up with hole in flywheel BTDC.[see last post page 2.] No 4 piston should be in the same position as no.1. but not on the same stroke. Valves on No 1 will be shut.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
circlej

02-07-2008 09:02:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to Bendee, 02-07-2008 06:12:08  
I know I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. I'm not real clear on your reference to 6, 10 or BTDC. Can you put in terms for a backyard mechanic?

Thanks!!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
gshadel

02-07-2008 12:28:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: TO20 wiring in reply to circlej, 02-07-2008 09:02:39  
circle, you are on the right track & almost home... hang in there a little longer.
BTDC = before top dead center. Your TO should be timed to spark at 7 degrees "before top dead center" during idle speed. The distributor will automatically shift the timing to ~30 degrees at full throttle.

The difference in position of the #1 piston between TDC (top dead center), 7 degrees BTDC, and 20 degrees is miniscule, maybe not even noticable, you can only note that fine degree of position on the flywheel thru the timing hole.
Slowly rotate your engine backwards and you should see the low end scale 5-10 degrees swing around into sight. You can also drop the semi-circle flywheel cover on the bottom of the bell housing, ~3-4 bolts, and you will be able to see a wide swath of the flywheel to help you find the elusive scale you are searching for. When you find it, use a dab of white paint to mark the 7 notch so it is easy to see thru your little timing hole.
Once you find that 7 mark & get it up to the timing hole mark, do as Jerry and other have posted in the past, turn on your ignition and rotate your distributor by hand until you get a spark plug spark. Then you are timed, tighten down the distributor.

Alternatively.... if your just looking for #1 position on the distributor cap. You have it now, pull your cap & the rotor will be basically right under the #1 location. You probably can just start your tractor as is (it should run, just not very good), then use a timing light to dial-in 7 degrees BTDC at idle speed.

George

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy