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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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TO-35

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thedamnshop

12-05-2007 06:55:58




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My tractor is still on a points and condenser ignition and the previosu owner had converted the generator to an altenator and possibly from 6v to 12v.

My delimma, seems that when I turn the key on and run it for a bit, the coil and the resitor get hot, the porcelin resistor that is.

Can anyone give me some insight as to how to crrect this problem, as I am afraid that if I do not correct it I will burn out ignition coils rather quickly.

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Jerry/MT

12-05-2007 17:26:31




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to thedamnshop, 12-05-2007 06:55:58  
You can put a real 12 V coil(NAPA IC-14SB ~$15)in and get rid of the resisitor or make sure the resistor in the primary ignition circuit limits the primary current to no more than 4 amps. That"s about 3 ohms total reisitance (Rresistor + Rcoil+ Rwire) in the primary. Someone maybe able to tell you what the coil primary resistance is or if you have a VOM you can measure it. I think it"s about 1.6 ohms but don"t hold me to it. The resisitor should get hot if it"s doing the job and the coil should be warm with 4 amps through the coil, there"s the I^2 xRcoil~26 watts worth of heat to dissipate in it.
Also make sure that your alternator regulator is operating correctly and not over charging and causing the output voltage to be over about 13.6 V.

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gerard

12-07-2007 16:05:46




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to Jerry/MT, 12-05-2007 17:26:31  
13.6V output is a tad low to charge a battery fully. 14.2 is about minimum. I set my dynamos at 14.5 and the alternators I have with adjustable regulators at 14.9 charge, 14.5 float.



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JMOR

12-05-2007 12:15:16




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to Charlotte Anderson, 12-05-2007 06:55:58  

thedamnshop said: (quoted from post at 15:35:15 12/05/07) Well Dell, I got a 12 V Coil, not a Napa coil as suggested, but a 12 V coil nevertheless, and as for knowing that the resistor gets hot during operation and the coil, this too I know, but to get hot as it does from merely turning it over, nah, that AIN'T SUPPOSED TO DO THAT...AGREE?

As for knowing whther it is a 6v or 12v system, well we already know it is 12V, but I appreciate the reply, but unfortunately I think either I need to include more resistance in line, or possibly we may have some crossed wires or even possibly a faulty component.

Now, if you got some suggestions as to how I might attack the overheat problem, I greatly appreciate it.


Well, I ain't Dell and I'm quite sure you know you have 6 battery cell rather than 4.

If you can open the coil/resistor circuit and insert an ammeter in series, you can measure the current with the points closed. Should be ~ 3 to 4 amperes. If it is double that then you have found the reason for all the heat. If, yes, then ballast is probably too small.

When these folks talk of a 12v coil, they mean one that specifically does not require a ballast resistor! There are many 12v coils that specify USE WITH Ballast resistor & the value of the resistor varies widely depending on the specific coil. That's why I say MEASURE THE CURRENT. Whatever combination someone else used that worked for him probably won't work for you. Unless you both use all the same part numbers & even that is suspect sometimes.

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Dell (WA)

12-05-2007 08:01:37




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to thedamnshop, 12-05-2007 06:55:58  
Shoppie..... ...would it amaze you to learn that porcelain resistor is supposta gitt HOT? (burnie-burnie) And that is the reason it is made outta porcelain. It don't melt when hot.

And would it surprize you to learn that yer roundcan ignition coil is also supposta gitt WARM but not burnie hot?

So you gotta alternator and don't know iff'n you have a 12-volt system? While there are 6-volt alternators (very rare) Hakeem's Razor sez yer alternator is 12-volts. You doubt? count yer battery water caps. 4-caps = 12-volts.

Me? I recommend junkin' yer 6-volt roundcan ignition coil and yer unnecessary 12-6 volt porcelain converting resistor and use a real 12-volt roundcan ignition coil with NO resistor. Recommend NAPA IC14-SB ($15, cheap) also has hotter sparkies than the 6-volt coil. Thats a win-win, eh?..... ..Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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thedamnshop

12-05-2007 11:35:15




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to Dell (WA), 12-05-2007 08:01:37  
Well Dell, I got a 12 V Coil, not a Napa coil as suggested, but a 12 V coil nevertheless, and as for knowing that the resistor gets hot during operation and the coil, this too I know, but to get hot as it does from merely turning it over, nah, that AIN'T SUPPOSED TO DO THAT...AGREE?

As for knowing whther it is a 6v or 12v system, well we already know it is 12V, but I appreciate the reply, but unfortunately I think either I need to include more resistance in line, or possibly we may have some crossed wires or even possibly a faulty component.

Now, if you got some suggestions as to how I might attack the overheat problem, I greatly appreciate it.

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Dell (WA)

12-05-2007 12:10:18




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 Re: TO-35 in reply to thedamnshop, 12-05-2007 11:35:15  
Shoppie..... ...why do you think yer current roundcan ignition coil is 12-volts??? Your having to use a ceramic voltage reducing resistor tells me yer WRONG. Its the LAW, Kirchhoff's Law and Ohm's Law.

Fer petes sake, do it like I told you. NAPA IC14-SB ($15, cheap) is true 12-volt coil and uses NO RESISTOR, ever. And doesn't overheat. Understand???

Iff'n you still think yer right about overheating (unless you've melted yer wiring insulation, doubtful) re-check yer points gap. Points are known to slip closed and therefore will continually draw current, overheat and NEVER START..... ...respectfully, Dell

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