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gshadel
07-19-2007 10:50:38
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Re: Web to Sleeve Gap in reply to GrampaJack, 07-19-2007 05:14:11
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Gramps, sounds like a pretty good plan. I've been a Chemist in the adhesives business for >20 years... no I don't work for the JB Weld folks, and not competitors with them either. Anyway, a couple pointers to insure your success - I recommend a 3 step process for your block area, step one mechanical clean to get rust, welding slag, etc. out of the pitted areas with your wire wheel etc. until the pitted area is shiny bare metal. Use a dremel with a little grinding wheel if necessary to get in there & get the slag, rust out. If possible, undercut the pitted area to provide better anchorage for the epoxy. Step 2, clean with a polar solvent like methanol or acetone. Rubbing alcohol is okay but it dries slower than the ones mentioned above and most the stuff you get in the store has some water in it, which you don't really want. Then clean with a non-polar solvent like hexane, heptane,... not gasoline, that leaves an oily residue, you need a solvent that dries with no residue. White gas (coleman lantern fuel) works great & dries fast, that's may favorite solvent for glue jobs. Dry REAL good. Use a hair dryer to make sure all solvent is evaporated out. Then apply your epoxy, whether that be JB or whatever. Be real careful with the vasoline, if any of that squeezes into the pitted area you JB weld won't stick. I'd shy away from the vasoline in your application and maybe use plastic wrap, like Saran or Glad wrap, or wax paper. Epoxy won't stick to those either, and there is no risk of it squeezing into your repair work when you push the sleeve down in your block. When I did a job similar to yours, I used a piece of cardboard with wax paper to press around the inside of the bore and probably had to do some extra grinding than you will need to do with your method. Good luck, let us know how it turns out. George
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