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TO20/?TE20

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Tania

02-07-2001 18:34:34




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How do I identify a TO20 from a TE 20 and what is the difference? I am learning some hard lessons about old tractors, mine is currently torn down to the block to replace o rings but now found hairline cracks at the bottom of the cylinder walls. Apparently they've been there a long time and we don't know if they were leaking or it was the bad o rings. Getting different advice on what comes next....one guy told me the TE 20s are not worth the effort and money.....also what exactly is pinning, is it a good fix and whats the cost ?

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stevie_alc

02-10-2001 07:36:32




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
To All;

and To30

Alot of tractors have been abused or not properly taken care of. Dad never had any trouble with his TE20 or the TO30 I have now. They are good tractors and probably better then the N Fords at the time. Keep the oil and anti freeze changed and dont get them overheated and they will run a along time.

Stevie_alc



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Ray,IN

02-08-2001 19:16:22




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
These guys are very helpful, I have picked up tips just by reading posts. If you have the time, you might read some of the archived material, you never know the good advice in there. The matter of the cracks boils down to what do you want to spend. An aquantiance once had an old tractor that had a crack between the water jacket and a cylinder. He filled the radiator with fuel oil. He claimed that it never overheated, and the leaking into the cylinder did'nt seem to matter any more. That is a reeeeal cheap way to go. I would'nt do it. So, you have heard the best and now the cheapest, way to handle the block. Have fun with your Fergie! Come back and let us know your progress.

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Tania/ Wisconsin

02-09-2001 06:12:41




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 Re: Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Ray,IN, 02-08-2001 19:16:22  
I also have an old 8N that we learned by trial and error, sure wish I had a computer and this site 10 years ago! These old tractors are amazing, I don't do any internal repairs but can find my way around enough to keep her working, she's fussy about starting, picky about sparkplugs and makes strange noises at times but keeps going. My plan was to replace her with the TE20 (it was supposed to be in great shape) but with all the Fergie problems I wonder which will be the one to keep? Any comments?

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Jagries

02-09-2001 10:16:15




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 Re: Re: Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania/ Wisconsin, 02-09-2001 06:12:41  
Tania, my dad had a new TO20 in the early 60s. Did not like it at all. We took it back for a used TE-20 and he loved it. We have had it since then. I use it for snow, mowing and bush hogging. I personally would go with the TE. It is a good little tractor



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Ray,IN

02-09-2001 10:49:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Jagries, 02-09-2001 10:16:15  
Where did you get a new TO20 in 1960? The last were manufactured in 1951, according to my source.



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dennis

02-08-2001 19:06:47




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
Scroll down a few posts and you'll see a post about pinning and a response from Dan Collins about bolting the bottom of the block. He'll send you photos of his or maybe he'll post them here. He's been having problems trying to post pics but he's got directions now and hopefully you'll see them soon. What about it Dan, got it mastered yet ????? If you're having problems, I'll put them up for you !

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Joe in NY

02-08-2001 14:26:45




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
I own a TEA-20. It is made in England also and has a Standard engine not the continental.
I see someone stated that the later TEs had Standard engines but that is not the case he is confusing it with the TEAs. In your case if you have a Delco ingnition system its a TO if its a Lucas its a TE. You would know by now because the TEs have metric fittings and bolts in some areas and the TOs have standard threads. Also the information about the transmission cover is correct TEs include the steering box and TOs have a partial cover. If it is a TE please e-mail me I have questions if you did a brake job. I have one bad seal and will most likly fix it this summer.
Thanks
Joe Good luck,

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Fred OH

02-08-2001 07:52:12




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
Tania, go up to the top of this page in the grey area and over on the left and click on H. Ferguson and you will find info on your tractor. You need the serial number from the tractor, it's located on a tag on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Look on block of engine (drivers side/middle near oil pan) and see if you can see something like Z 120 a 600. If you see that, its a Continental engine. You can't pin the lower cyl. walls, its either weld them or if they're just hairline cracks, put a can or two of stopleak in the radiator when you get it back together. After id'ing engine, get a shop manual (over on the left of this page). Probably a FE-2 and usually about $25 nore or less. Need more help? Repost or email to someone on here that you think you can trust their advice, thats how it is done. Lot of good guys here to help. L8R----Fred OH

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SandyB@TN

02-07-2001 18:59:00




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 Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to Tania, 02-07-2001 18:34:34  
Tania,
The easiest way to tell the difference between the TO and the TE is the transmission cover. On the TE it is part of the dash/steering wheel support. On the TO the transmission cover is separate. The later model TE's had a Standard engine. The early ones had the Continental Z120.
Sounds like yours has the Z120 from the cracks...they were prone to that.
Pinning the block consists of running 3 long bolts through the block between the cylinders. This is not a job for the amateur. I think the current cost is somewhere around $200. Mine was already done when I acquired it. As far as the TE not being worth the cost...you'll have to be the judge of that. Best I can tell it's every bit as good a tractor as the TO-20. Just made in England instead of USA. Couldn't have been too bad...it's lived about 50 years. They are good little machines.
Sandy

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tania

02-08-2001 08:08:33




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 Re: Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to SandyB@TN, 02-07-2001 18:59:00  
Thanks, helpful info...will look for someone who knows how to pin the block, if I'm going to continue this 'investment' I want to know it's done right. Any other suggestions as to common problems to check for? The tractor started and sounded fine when I bought it. Bad seals had ruined the brakes and the fuel system had to be cleaned and that was done. It also had one cylinder (o rings) repaired just before I bought it, which they now tell me may have 'disturbed' the cracks and caused new leaking. Is it normal to only do one cylinder? Do I have dumb written on my forehead????? ??

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SandyB@TN

02-08-2001 13:47:00




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 Re: Re: Re: TO20/?TE20 in reply to tania, 02-08-2001 08:08:33  
NoTania,
You don't have dumb written on your forehead. Lotsa people come to this board for info just like you do. Two years ago, I had never even sat on a tractor. Played with cars and trucks all my life, but never tractors. As far as ringing one cylinder at a time...I wouldn't do it, because it ain't the way I work. If I'm going to fix something, I do it all while I'm there. I don't like going back in in 6 months to fix what shoulda fixed the first time. I'm industrially lazy.
There are lotsa nitpicky things that are wrong, but sounds like you're on to the main ones already.
The hydraulics sometimes are prone to troubles, but if yours are working...leave them alone. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Hope things turn out the way you want them to.
Sandy

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