TEA-20 starting - Part IV

Latest update is really an answering info from last week one really.

Bill wrote:

Hello Matt,
First of all. If I understand you correctly, you have got the engine running long enough to adjust the timing. This is not the way to do it.
The centrifugal weights starts to advance timing at very low speed, so when it idles the timing is advanced already. The way to do it is when the engine is stopped.

I will give you the correct procedure, but I need the engine number and distributor number.
The engine number is located above the oil filler cap, and a little forward.

Then, take a look at the numbers below.

Type 1:
Engine number S1E to S8995E
Distr. model D3A4
Distr. number 40132

Type 2:
Engine number S8996 and onwards
Distr. model D3A4
Distr. number 40146

Type 3:
Engine number S1E to S8996E
Distr. model D3A4
Distr. number 40146

Type 3 is actually a Type 1 engine with the type 2 distributor, as a Lucal Replacement distributor.

Please tell us what combination you have, type 1, 2, or 3.

I have a very strong feeling that you have too late timing. Both the sooting, bad running, and hot exhaust indicated this. In addition, setting the timing at idle speed will 100% sure fool you to believe you have a more advanced timing than you actually have. So, it is pretty many circumstantial evidences that you may have too late timing.

Best regards, Bill So I've checked today, and the engine number is S31750E, and the Distributor is 40146D, which I'm deducing means we've got a type 2 engine. So if Bill's keeping a look about, the info you had would be gratefully received.

Only had an hour today to do any work on the ungrateful beast, tried the easi-start around the manifold and got a little bit of reaction, but it's running so lumpily that it wasn't really clear.

We've also found out that the clutch is bust (has no effect at all, nowhere near getting into any gear!), so we've got to split the tractor anyway, so I think we'll have the engine to bits again, put new gaskets all round and see if we missed anything the first time round.

Oh yes, and if Jerry's about, I've had a look for your artcile on timing but couldn't find it, if you would send it on, that would be great. No rush, as we've other things to be getting on with now, but it would be good for when we come to set it up again.

So a bit dispriting, but hey ho, it's only a tractor, can't let it get you down too much!!

Matt

The centrifugal advance does start until somewhere above the idle speed so setting the timing at idle will give the correct value. If you need to time it statically( without the engine running)because i'st badly out of time, here's what I do. First, remove all the spark plugs to make turning over the engine very easy. Now, get the #1 (closest to the raditor)cylinder on the compression stroke. Hold your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole while someone taps the starter in short spurts. When you feel pressure on your thumb, you are on the compression stroke.

Observe the relationship of the timing mark to the timing reference point. (Since I'm not familiar with the Standard engine, I don't know what your timing marks look like.) By way of definition, the timing reference point is a fixed reference and the timing mark is the moving refernce. Hand crank the engine to line up the timing mark with the timing reference point. To see how far off you are, you can take off the distributor cap noting where the #1 terminal is in the cap. If you were close to being in time, the rotor will be pointing at the #1 terminal. To set the timing, loosen the distributor hold down bolt, place a paper clip or a bent wire in the #1 spark plug boot, hold it near a good ground. Turn on the ignition and slightly rotate the distributor back and forth until you hear the spark snap. At the point the spark snaps, you are statically timed. You may have to do it several times to nail it down but when you feel you have it right snug down the hold down bolt and try a start. Check it with a timing light at 400 rpm and redajut if necessary. The check that the centrifugal advance is working by reving the engine to high rpm and note that the timing advances. I don't have the specs for your engine so I can't tell you what the advance should be as a function of rpm.
If these instructions are not clear or you have questions, holler back.

Cheers,

Jerry/MT

P.S. Where abouts in the UK are you. I spent some time around Derby & Hucknal in the Midlands in my "other life".

How do you check the rpm of the engine without a rev counter?

In answer to the location question, I'm in Leeds, which is currently mostly underwater! High summer in England. The beastly tractor is at my parents in North Lincolnshire, sort of diagonally between Doncaster and Scunthorpe, so not a million miles away from where you were!

Cheers!
Jerry

It may be easier to estimate PTO speed than engine speed without a tachometer.

Let me know if you want me to post the numbers here.